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Reducing Body Weight

Bass-Adrenaline

Bass-Adrenaline

Jan 23, 2010
1,259
10
#1
In your opinion what is the best way to reduce the weight of a bass body of "average" size (width and height)? Chambering or making the body thinner where possible? Other?

Ive decided to dive in and build a bass of my own and would just like to hear some opinions, advice, and experiences. Thanks
 
#4
Im somewhat curious to know if anyone has actually done some calculations to see which would reduce weight most. I wouldnt be surprised here on TB. lol

The main reason im asking is chambering seems to be the default method of reducing body weight. Is it because its just easier? Do people not make bodies just thinner because they cant get the shape they prefer or dont like the way it looks?

Im not interested in the wood or hardware used. The only thing im asking about is the ways to reduce the weight of a body regardless of the material used.
 
#5
I have noticed that the woods I like to use tend to be very dense and thus very heavy when done. But I like the woods I tend to use for their strength and stability. To me those properties will always outweigh the weight issues. (pun intended :))

My favorites for body wings and neck thru's are Wenge, Purpleheart, Hard Maple, and Zebrawood. I would guess if I used less dense woods I could easily reduce weight, but that's an experiment I don't choose to do at this point.

Now to help you it would seem to me a nice forearm sculpting does reduce weight some. Although I don't do it myself, the upper wing piece could be greatly reduced in overall thickness. The only place that really needs to be thick would be the electronic cavity and pickup areas. I haven't really played any hollow body basses so I can't comment on that construction idea. But in theory you should be able to reduce some weight there, but I really think when we are talking these changes maybe losing a pound or 2 max maybe?

My personal preference is I do like the feel of heavier basses, I feel it in my hands more than in my ears.

Good luck,
Dirk
 
#7
uh, lets see
1. put it on a diet
2. go to the gym more so it's relative weight seems diminised due to your new buff physique
3. Make it a hallowbody - 3/16 in tops backs and sides weight less then 1.25 chambered bodies
4. dont have a body at all see http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=715966
5. no bass at all http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=715966


If you want to make it weigh less it also dependes on other factors in construction. Chambering is good for basses that have a top applied to the body , not something you're going to do to a one piece. If you make it thin you need to be wary of how your controls/pickups are going fit in the body. Anything you do to reduce weight has to take the overall design and construction in to account, there is no best way. There are techniques that lend themselves to different situations. IMO It's is also more important to think about the design of the bass and how well it will balance before worrying about making it lighter.
 
#10
so a couple things; wheather repetitious or not that i consider going into this;
you talk about mahogany being light; but ive held mahogany that felt heavier than ebony; so obviously sourcing the lightest piece of lumber; from your chosen species is something.
beyond chambering, make your already needed cavities bigger, control cavity battery pocket; and more sculpting in the areas that are thick but not needed ie tummy cut, wrist cut, top horn,if its able in your design;
and i wont name names but ive seen very reputable builders hoggin out with a forstner bit of the the inside side of pickup and control cavities on topless bodies to get the weight down;
 
#11
+1. rdrr brought up some very good points.

I went through a similar line of thought fairly recently. Low weight is a priority for me. I don't you can really define a "best" way because there are too many options and variables.

My preference was to have an extra wide control cavity, thinner (less than 1.5" but limited due to preference in electronics) & narrower body, super light spanish cedar as a body wood (relative to mahogany), a minor chamber in the upper bout (actually more like a few holes under a spalted maple top), and lots of contouring/carving (when the time comes).

My custom bass build by Talkbasser Grant Bass is here:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=703333

You might want to check out this link to a 6 lb Carl Thompson bass:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=703333

Good luck!
deb
 
#12
You don't source light weight mahogany, you learn that Genuine Mahogany is light weight, and other African Mahoganies are also lightweight but heavier than Genuine, and Plillipine and Santos Mahoganies are much heavier, so species is determinate. As for lightening a body, You have a few options, removing material from under pickguards, or cavities, chambering, body thickness, decreasing size like the "dinky" style 7/8 or 3/4 scale body. I think most of your options have been gone over through these replies.
 
#14
I don't think this thread has bombed yet, its still in the bombing process!

Anyway, I think you described the two main ways to reduce weight mechanically in your own first post. It stands to reason that the next logical weight reduction method is material selection - hence the wood talk.

The shape and its relative size to the rest of the bass also can play a role obviously, as smaller and sleeker shapes will use less material. Combine that with chambers and large cavities, thinner body profile, lightweight aluminum or wooden bridge, neo or alumitone pickups, mini pots, thinly shrouded wiring and a thin lightweight-neck will get you a pretty light bass overall. But the guys are right that even with all this stuff in place, you'll probably save much more weight if you make it out of basswood rather than wenge.

Another idea I've honestly toyed with just as a "what-the-heck" is the idea of chambering a bass, linking all the chambers with holes, lining the chambers with laquer and installing a "system" to fill the chambers with nitrogen gas to help the bass feel lighter than air. Stranger things have happened...
 
#15
Think Parker Fly...pine encased in fiberglass. Foam encased in fiberglass,carbon fiber etc. This subject has been discussed here ad nauseam, and many threads are easilly accessed by the search function. There are very few ways to reduce mass if you don't wish to discuss material weight, as the material you choose WILL have the greatest effect. There is no magical way to build light wood bodies other than thickness, material used, or material removal.
 
#16
I just have a custom built 7strings Alembic,with super thin neck profile(20mm under 1st fret) 33 " scale,narrow neck(86mm at 24th fret),narrowed body,chambered body. BUT STILL its is 11lbs..I guess the tuners,pickups,bridge and truss rods counts the most than woods..BTW,mine is a mahogany with lacewood top.Body width is 33cms
-robert
 
#17
I knew a shop owner/guitarist/tech/luthier that filled acoustics with what seemed like a foam insulation that hardened. He would then mount a standard pup or two in the foam at the sound hole. You could take this idea and run with it. Possibly do massive chambering, to the point where the only "solid" parts of the body are at the bridge and neck joint to handle string tension. Then route the top for pups, glue it up, and mount all the electronics in the foam. I have no clue how well this would work, if at all, but it's a thought.
 
#18
I managed to lighten my bass a surprising amount, just by thinking in 3D. When I originally built it, I was pretty much thinking Fender. I blended the heel area pretty aggressively, but aside from the forearm and tummy cuts, there was no other carving.

Shortly before I doing a refin, I handled a beautiful F Bass that made me realize how blah my contouring was. So I did a simpler version of Furlanetto's swoops and tapers. Nothing fancy, just tapered the body wings and blended the tummy and arm cuts out a little. Also, I had to leave the treble side of the lower bout alone, because the control cavity was already pretty tight, and I didn't want the hassle of making a new cavity cover.

I was originally only thinking about cosmetics, but I was surprised to find that I had lightened it by about a pound, and made it sound more resonant and alive. The contouring wasn't that aggressive- it still looks pretty slab-shaped, compared to an F Bass or a Spector.

The best part, is that I didn't have to do anything that would compromise sustain or integrity, like a bathtub rout, or thinning the center log.
 
#19
steve_rolfeca said:
I managed to lighten my bass a surprising amount, just by thinking in 3D. When I originally built it, I was pretty much thinking Fender. I blended the heel area pretty aggressively, but aside from the forearm and tummy cuts, there was no other carving.

Shortly before I doing a refin, I handled a beautiful F Bass that made me realize how blah my contouring was. So I did a simpler version of Furlanetto's swoops and tapers. Nothing fancy, just tapered the body wings and blended the tummy and arm cuts out a little. Also, I had to leave the treble side of the lower bout alone, because the control cavity was already pretty tight, and I didn't want the hassle of making a new cavity cover.

I was originally only thinking about cosmetics, but I was surprised to find that I had lightened it by about a pound, and made it sound more resonant and alive. The contouring wasn't that aggressive- it still looks pretty slab-shaped, compared to an F Bass or a Spector.

The best part, is that I didn't have to do anything that would compromise sustain or integrity, like a bathtub rout, or thinning the center log.
Click to expand...

My old Alder Fbass was the lightest bass that I have ever played and I am convinced it was due to the body carving/contouring.

lowsound
 

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