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refinishing a warwick..

#22
joeinsprings said:
Thanks. I went and copied your instructions on to my computer so that I will still have them.

What about the wax in the end, is their a good product that you can recommend?
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Any paste wax with a suitably high Carnauba content will work. My favorite is Liberon Black Bison, but there are many other fine paste waxes available. Make sure you wait at least a week after the final coat of oil before you apply wax.

I avoid Briwax containing toluene, simply because I don't want to expose myself to chemicals that can hurt me if I have a choice! I also avoid any wax that contains silicon (typically sold as car wax), because silicon can impede future refinishing efforts.

Good luck!
 
#24
BassGreaser said:
funny you mention Palomar I was just taking the Auto Body class last semester there:D Is it too late to sign up for this semester?
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Heck, you were in the same building - looking out toward our sawmill when you were wet-sanding cars outdoors - you probably saw me hauling logs around on the forklift!

The semester is now half over; you'll have to wait for spring of 2007. The first class students are required to take is CFT-100. Maybe I'll see you next semster: I'm one of several middle-aged guys wearing a shop apron and a white beard :cool: (there's no codger icon!)
 
#25
I will definitely take a wood working class next spring. And to feel like a complete fool..... I am assembling a 5 string bass using a Carvin ash body, and maple neck. I applied paste wax (Mini Wax) with out knowing about applying a tung oil before doing so... Am I able to sand the wax off, and then applying the oil? :help:
 
#26
BassGreaser said:
I will definitely take a wood working class next spring. And to feel like a complete fool..... I am assembling a 5 string bass using a Carvin ash body, and maple neck. I applied paste wax (Mini Wax) with out knowing about applying a tung oil before doing so... Am I able to sand the wax off, and then applying the oil? :help:
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Many bass bodies are made of swamp ash - a "ring-porous" species, meaning it has big, open, pores that hold wax and allow it to penetrate deeply.

If you just start sanding, you'll smear wax all over the place and drive it deeper into the pores. The wax will quickly contaminate the sandpaper and you'll end up with a "chocolate mess" in no time flat

First, wipe the entire thing down several times with clean, lint-free cotton rags and naphtha to dissolve as much of the wax as possible. Change rags often, or you'll just smear it all over the place instead of removing it. Work in a well-ventilated area!

I can't guarantee you'll be able to remove all of the wax. After you think you've removed all of the wax, you can experiment to see how much is left:

(1) Place a brown paper bag against your bass for several hours and see if the paper absorbs any wax - brown paper bags make wax especially conspicuous - it'll look greasy.

(2) lightly wipe the surface of your bass with a small quantity of distilled water (regular tap water can leave black stains!) and see if it beads-up or is soaked into the wood.

Good luck!
 
#27
Jazzdog-excellent tutorial on oil finishes. I use basically that method but with a slow drying thinned down alkyd varnish instead of oil on table tops and one bass body. It gives a wonderful finish that's harder than the tung oil. The key is to let the first coat really soak into the wood, and you have to keep it wet so it doesn't get gummy before you sand. It's lots of work but worth it.
 
#28
62bass said:
Jazzdog-excellent tutorial on oil finishes. I use basically that method but with a slow drying thinned down alkyd varnish instead of oil on table tops and one bass body. It gives a wonderful finish that's harder than the tung oil. The key is to let the first coat really soak into the wood, and you have to keep it wet so it doesn't get gummy before you sand. It's lots of work but worth it.
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Many "finishing oils" are a blend of oil and alkyd varnish, as is Liberon's product. There is a distinction between an Oil/Varnish Blend and thinned varnish that is worth looking into further. However, school awaits.

I'm glad you have found a method that works so well for you! Yours is a variant that I often use and like a great deal.
 
#32
mcanseco said:
Jazzdog, I have a question for you. What would be the "best" method to use when applying finishing oil to a bass that has a stained finish? Would one use the method you posted, or would the process need to be altered?
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Now you're talking about the possibility of a huge mess, but don't give up all hope!

First, I ALWAYS recommend finishing test pieces of the same species before attempting to apply a new finish or trying a new application method - it's cheap insurance and affords an opportunity to "test drive" a finish/process (or several) before diving in.

I usually prepare at least two pieces; I write the sequence of steps, the products used, and their proportions, on an index card that I affix to the back of each test piece. This allows me to fine-tune the sheen, color, product compatibility, etc. AND makes it a lot easier to replicate the finish in the future, whether to make another piece that looks the same, or to repair something I made a long time ago. I also subject these test pieces to experiments to see how well or poorly a finish will perform, e.g. abrasion resistance, repairability, resistance to fading when exposed to UV, permeability, color-fastness, etc.

SECONDLY, there is no magic formula or process for applying an oil finish over stain because there are a great many variables to consider, e.g., what kind of stain is it? To what species of wood is it being applied? What kind of "oil finish" are you using? ...

I'm heading out the door for work, followed by a gig tonight, so I'll stop for now. However, if you'll send me a PM (preferably with as many specifics as possible), I'll reply on Sunday.
 
#33
I'd be willing to bet that a good clean + a thorough waxing (hehe) would spruce that bass up nicely. For most Warwick owners, waxing the bass is not a chore ;)

Seriously though, changing the finish will have _some_ effect on the tone. Then again, so does getting all the crud off the fretboard every once in a while.

(edit: those photos are like seeing somebody kick a puppy. I'm jonesing for a second Warwick (it's not GAS, I'm fully justified!))
 
#34
idoru said:
I'd be willing to bet that a good clean + a thorough waxing (hehe) would spruce that bass up nicely. For most Warwick owners, waxing the bass is not a chore ;)

Seriously though, changing the finish will have _some_ effect on the tone. Then again, so does getting all the crud off the fretboard every once in a while.

(edit: those photos are like seeing somebody kick a puppy. I'm jonesing for a second Warwick (it's not GAS, I'm fully justified!))
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I would rather own it if it's just cleaned and waxed. It's your bass, though. Honest battle scars should be worn with honor on any player bass, unless it interferes with the playing of it.

Out of 10 people that refinish thier first bass, 9.99% of them will end up with a worse result than they started with. I just invented that statistic so I know it's accurate.lol

If you can't build a REALLY nice birdhouse, chances are that you aren't ready to apply a fine finish to a rough surface. YMMV.

I would practice on one beater bass before I committed my Sunday bass.

IMHO!
 
#35

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