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removing neck to adjust truss rod

#21
Had the neck on my Nash off like 10 times, trying to deal with an issue. Didn't seem like a hassle to me - and I AM lazy! :p The nut at the heel is definitely not a deal-killer for me at all.

I wound up at the luthier and he was really pushing the body rout mod. (He vastly prefers to adjust the truss rod while there's string tension, thinks it's way quicker & more accurate.) I finally said sure, what the heck. That bass is a "player", so I'm OK doing a minor hack to make it more user-friendly.
 
#22
Well I tried the setup tonight, and unscrewing the neck wasn't as scary as I anticipated! I loosened the strings, but didn't take it apart comleteley, just enough to have easy access to the truss rod. However the truss rod wouldn't budge I could loosen it but I couldn't tighten it, and I don't want to force it! Looks like I'll need to bring it a luthier after all.
 
#24
bass player 48 said:
I'm not telling you what to do, but for me personally, I'd much rather remove a neck. The neck attaches with 4 screws - the pick guard is usually attached with about, what, 50 to 100 screws? (give or take) ...also, it seems like every single time I've removed a pick guard I have to deal with stripped out holes or a broken wire when I put it back on, but I've never stripped a neck screw... and I have WAY over tightened neck screws... the neck plate "dug in" to the back of the body, but the screw holes didn't strip.
Click to expand...

Point well taken.
 
#25
I take the 'guard off my Sting because I can then make the TR adjustment with the strings still on and tuned to pitch. That makes it a lot easier to see when it's done correctly. That's because the pickguard lifts over the pickup and I can just push it out of the way.

But on the Strat, it's a LOT eaiser to loosen the neck than the 12 screws on the PG, pull it and all the wiring out of the way without scratching the finish, and put it back together. And either way on that particular Strat, I've got to loosen the strings (and the trem goes out of whack..) so neck adjustments on the Strat are a bigger deal than on the Sting or the P bass.
 
#26
I have a 62 reissue Fender Jazz bass that also requires at least a partial removal of the neck to adjust the truss rod. It’s not really a show stopper, but I have been known to procrastinate on making any adjustments because it requires more effort. Thus, has anybody ever thought about routing away a bit of the body to achieve easier access? If so, has anybody had successful results, I'm afraid it would weaken the integrity of the neck join?
 
#27
I have a 62 reissue Fender Jazz bass that also requires at least a partial removal of the neck to adjust the truss rod. It’s not really a show stopper, but I have been known to procrastinate on making any adjustments because it requires more effort. Thus, has anybody ever thought about routing away a bit of the body to achieve easier access? If so, would has anybody done it with successful results, I'm afraid it would weaken the integrity of the neck join?
 
#28
I don't have to rout the body or PG on my 1963 P...and with the neck just a tiny bit loose, I found a tool with an angled end that fits the slots on the truss rod nut nicely.

Paintcanopener.jpg


They're available at your local paint store.
 
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#35
I need to adjust the truss-rod of my P 57 Reissue, and I was kind of afraid because this is the first time I own an instrument with this kind of TR. This thread is taking me back to reality! :-)

The only thing that still concerns me a bit is screwing back the neck. Not having done it before, in my head I imagine that they need to be screwed so that they fit back exactly where they were, so that they don't "dig" again the wood. Is that true?

In other words, is there anything special you need to pay attention to when putting the neck back into its place?

Sorry for the newbie question! I've been taken care of my basses setup for years, but this neck thing makes me feel kind of uncomfortable...

Pico
 
#38
First off, yes, I find the heel tr adjustment infuriating. Not because its difficult to remove the neck and adjust, but because it adds a significant amount of time to a simple job.

That said, when I assembled my frankenP, and the vintage neck I put on it had the heel only adjustment, it was extremely easy to add an access channel, didn't even have to use a router. I chiseled out a 1/2"x3/4" (give or take) channel at the tr nut, and carved a small cover out of balsa wood which I stained to match the body. (I should probably specify, no PG on that bass). Took 5 min, turned out nice, TR adjustments are easy as ever, no negative effect to body/neck coupling or anything. The only reason I wouldn't do it is if you have a pre-CBS with value to consider.

Lastly, in terms of re-attaching the neck. Start by turning the screws backwards, you should feel it "drop" into the threads, then proceed as with any other screw.
 
#40
abemo said:
Lastly, in terms of re-attaching the neck. Start by turning the screws backwards, you should feel it "drop" into the threads, then proceed as with any other screw.
Click to expand...

This is an invaluable suggestion, and it should be done with all screws that mount into wood instruments.
 
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