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Repair help on headless bass

Can anyone show me what I need to replace this metal nut (see photos)? I have stripped the female threads of the E-String because it took a lot of pressure to get it done in the first place.

I don’t see any other way than to replace it. I love this bass and have had it over 30 years. I want to get this functional again and I am not a ‘gear guy’.

Pictures of what I would need to buy would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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I think the easiest option is to add a string adapter at the end of the neck.
Like this.
Originally developed for Steinbergers to be able to use single ball end strings

View attachment 5071304 View attachment 5071305

Not sure how they would fasten to the OP's existing platform, though. These blocks have alignment pins but somebody clever could engineer a work-around.

Dumb question but does the stock (broken) headpiece accept double ball-end strings?

Riis
 
Double Ball strings are the best solution, none of the clamping mechanisms work all the well IME. The grub screws trend to cut through the outer string windings, causing the string to "unwrap" prematurely. Those headpieces also leave a razor-sharp cut string edge protruding.... Meh. Retapping the the grub screw threads is probably the easiest, but at least try to find a set of double-ball in you preferred gauges, its a far better system.
 
No easy answer here, unfortunately. That part, which is called a Head Block, appears to be custom made for that instrument. If that bass is more than 30 years old, I assume that it was made by a small boutique builder. And they made that head block for the bass, fitting it to that neck. It's not something that was mass produced and available anywhere as a replacement part.

I also don't see an easy way to repair it. The threads are stripped and it would be difficult to repair them . Possibly some steel threaded inserts?

The best permanent solution is to find someone with a small machine shop and have them make up a new custom replacement. Not a real difficult job. Drilled and milled from a block of brass, then shaped and polished to fit the neck. While they are at it, a few changes to the design to make it stronger and better.

I recommend getting rid of those slots. A bad design idea. The strings should just go through holes in the head block, and be clamped by the setscrews. Also, I would extend the thickness of the block a bit and put in two setscrews per string. The trick is to drill a small pocket under the outer setscrew of each pair. That way, tightening down the two setscrews puts a small Z-kink in the end of the string, which greatly improves the clamping. I've done that on a few headless bass head blocks that I've made in the past, and they worked very reliably.
 
The trick is to drill a small pocket under the outer setscrew of each pair. That way, tightening down the two setscrews puts a small Z-kink in the end of the string, which greatly improves the clamping. I've done that on a few headless bass head blocks that I've made in the past, and they worked very reliably.

This is one issue that plagues the available single set-screw head blocks. The strings pass thru a virtually smooth lumen and are clamped by the downward force of the grub screw alone. I'm guessing there must be a way to "dimple" the lower aspect or produce a surface irregularity which provides an enhanced grab. If you're really good with a drill press, I guess you could remove the grub screw and pass a slightly smaller bit without damaging the host threads. If not practical, flip the block over and drill holes directly opposite the grub screws.

Riis
 
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Damaged lock down threads/screws sometimes occur with over tightening. There are many threads on Talkbass where this has been stated on different headless systems. The advice has been to tighten until snug, and not beyond. No fault or blame is being assessed, just commenting.

My experience with a Hipshot 5-string system is very positive. The design uses standard strings, but requires specific string length with a right-angle string bend. The bent portion is inserted into a "string well" that is located after the locking mechanism. Hipshot supplies a multi tool for determining the string length, and the bend length. Once the multi tool is is used as directed a few times, it is fast and efficient to use.
 
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Reactions: Zooberwerx
Can anyone show me what I need to replace this metal nut (see photos)? I have stripped the female threads of the E-String because it took a lot of pressure to get it done in the first place.

I don’t see any other way than to replace it. I love this bass and have had it over 30 years. I want to get this functional again and I am not a ‘gear guy’.

Pictures of what I would need to buy would be appreciated. Thanks!
I make the string adapters someone posted. They might work for your instrument. If you have a profile photo of the headpiece I could probably tell you. On another note I do custom work and could probably mill a replacement headpiece that would match your original. peterweissdesigns.com
 
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Reactions: Bruce Johnson
I make the string adapters someone posted. They might work for your instrument. If you have a profile photo of the headpiece I could probably tell you. On another note I do custom work and could probably mill a replacement headpiece that would match your original. peterweissdesigns.com

Okay, this is too durn cool! The 45 mm headstock mount really caught my eye.

Riis