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Repair recommendation
- Thread starter larrygs
- Start date
Any clue as to HOW they botched the initial repair attempt (glues, etc.)? Just wondering what kind of spooge remains which may impair a future glue-up & clamp.
Riis
Riis
Not yet, I plan to remove the tuner and check how deep that glue went using a good light and magnifier. I hope is just on the edge.
If the glue is all inside, what options you think are possible?
If the glue is all inside, what options you think are possible?
No, leave the machine head & screw in place. It's actually doing us a service by prying the crack / crevice open for a better view. Not sure how we'd remove any residual glue...I'm sure somebody does. When re-gluing, I'd use a slightly diluted TiteBond and form-fitting cauls under my clamps. Again, I'd partially disassemble the machine head, apply the glue, then quickly remove the balance of the hardware and clamp. Good chance it will close and self-clamp once that anchor screw is removed...it's acting as a wedge.
Riis
To me it looks like no glue in the crack at all.
You really need to remove the tuner. By the way it looks like your headstock scarf
to a bit of a hit too, certainly not as much problem as the tuner area damage.
Can you open the crack up by hand?
Also can you close the crack by hand?
If so, use clamps to open it more, then plenty of Titebond II to flood the crack.
Once glued up, clamp it closed, wipe off excess.
Enjoy your repair, good luck.
You really need to remove the tuner. By the way it looks like your headstock scarf
to a bit of a hit too, certainly not as much problem as the tuner area damage.
Can you open the crack up by hand?
Also can you close the crack by hand?
If so, use clamps to open it more, then plenty of Titebond II to flood the crack.
Once glued up, clamp it closed, wipe off excess.
Enjoy your repair, good luck.
Thanks!
Yes, I will try it to see how much it will open. I also saw the scarf part too.
Once holidays are over, I will start the repair.
Thanks for all the advice.
In agreement with most of the above:
1> better hope the initial application of glue did not go deep, if so, proceed to:
2> Titebond, UNTHINNED. Leverage that crack open, inject any way you can. This will be a mess, so be ready.
3> Options to push that glue all the way in:
- use a thin piece of cardboard or stiff paper to push it further in
- use a very low pressure setting with a small compressed air gun and blow it down in there.
Finally, after using any combo of the above, gently open/close it a few times, which will also help distribute the glue better.
Clamp well, and clean up as much squeeze out as you can. This will be reasonably easy on an instrument that has a film finish, like this one.
Overnight cure is best. Pull clamps, peel/clean up any remaining glue. Use wax filler stick to fill any remaining gaps, and lightly buff the area to desired sheen.
Rock on!
1> better hope the initial application of glue did not go deep, if so, proceed to:
2> Titebond, UNTHINNED. Leverage that crack open, inject any way you can. This will be a mess, so be ready.
3> Options to push that glue all the way in:
- use a thin piece of cardboard or stiff paper to push it further in
- use a very low pressure setting with a small compressed air gun and blow it down in there.
Finally, after using any combo of the above, gently open/close it a few times, which will also help distribute the glue better.
Clamp well, and clean up as much squeeze out as you can. This will be reasonably easy on an instrument that has a film finish, like this one.
Overnight cure is best. Pull clamps, peel/clean up any remaining glue. Use wax filler stick to fill any remaining gaps, and lightly buff the area to desired sheen.
Rock on!
Since it was repaired before, how you'll need to fix it depends on what was used for the first repair. Regular wood glue like titebond doesn't like to stick to itself, so if that's what was used the first time, I wouldn't expect your new repair to hold. I'm not qualified to tell you what you should do, but I'm experienced enough to know that titebond on top of titebond probably won't work. I've tried to reglue things like that before and it took a good bit of cleaning to get it to stick the second time.
Yes that is my concern, I will address that when I take a better look. What do you do to clean up the old glue? just in case.
Larry
Depending on the extent of the crack, it appears nearly to the point (looking at the wide end, since I can't see the narrow end) where splitting it the rest of the way off might result in the better repair. You'd be able to scrape off any residue and get full glue application to the surface. I'd lean towards slow epoxy, and re-drilling the tuner mount screw that's right in the crack after the repair. From what I can see of the head of that screw, it (and perhaps its friends-and-relations) might be up for replacing, too - it looks kinda beat on/chewed up, without even getting into the rust factor.
When I did it, on non lutherie projects, I was gluing a straight line, so I ran it through the table saw to remove a thin bit of wood, probably less than 1/16". That obviously wouldn't work here if you want a seamless repair.
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