Replace or powder coat hardware?

[Bass Ape]

A new bass just arrived yesterday with chrome hardware. I would like to to black out all the hardware on the bass but I’m not sure what the best option is. I certainly do not need extra hardware for a single bass but I’m also not sure if I want to go thru the trouble of finding out how to blackout the chrome when I could just buy new black hardware.

I’m basically looking for suggestions here. This is for a SBMM Ray25 CA.

 

[Killing Floor]

How would you get the powder coating to adhere to the chrome? Seems if you cost for your time it’s cheaper to replace.

 

[Bass Ape]

I think a quick Google search answers my question.

Where’s the best place to purchase black hardware?

 

[Bass Ape]

How would you get the powder coating to adhere to the chrome? Seems if you cost for your time it’s cheaper to replace.

I just read the chrome needs to be deplated. Not going to go thru that trouble to find a company to do that.

 

[buldog5151bass]

Just buy what you want, then list the chrome hardware in classifieds here.

 

[sissy kathy]

Just buy what you want, then list the chrome hardware in classifieds here.

I'd hold on to the chrome hardware; black, gold, bronze, and such are fashions that come and go. Chrome and Nickel are timeless.

 

[Geogio]

Rustoleum Rust Restore. If it gets scratched up over time just hit it with some more.

 

[JRA]

i've painted chrome control plates (e.g., J-bass style) after sanding the chrome plating to a dull gray: worked well, but most control plates don't see a lot of 'action', compared to say, tuning machines.

but trying to sand the intricate surfaces of tuning machines and most bridges would be an impossible job for me.

i always use black hardware: i think i'd just get new tuning machines and/or bridges. knobs, string retainers, etc., are cheap.

 

[Grinderman]

This is easy.

I've dealt with plenty of projects involving powder coating and powder coaters. I still even have the RAL books. (Does anyone want 'em free?)

Setting aside all other technical and practical concerns, unless I owned, operated, or had free access to a commercial powder coating line I wouldn't give the idea of altering the existing hardware even a fraction of an instant of thought.

If it must be blacked out get all-new black hardware.

 

[fhm555]

This is a heat cured, spray on ceramic coating that's very durable. It's very popular with those who enjoy an item we are forbidden to discuss here and has proved to be extremely durable, enough so it is used by military special operators worldwide for both protection and to camouflage their hardware. Application is best left to professionals but from what my friends who have had some of their (forbidden discussion) items coated, the price is reasonable. There is an applicator locator on the website if you are interested in looking into it. Oh, and it comes in all kinds of colors.
Invalid Link Removed

 

[Grinderman]

Forbidden discussion, who says?

















Is there anything sexually explicit, religious, or political about powder-coating?

Sure, one might need to chase out any screw treaded on sub-assembly parts with correctly sized thread taps to clear or clean them of any bits of residual powder coat material that might get inside (it won't be much, but it could be just enough to necessitate putting back to together hardware assemblies) after coating. I'm confident everyone understands what "screw" means in this context though.

 

[fhm555]

Forbidden discussion, who says?

Is there anything sexually explicit, religious, or political about powder-coating?

Sure, one might need to chase out any screw treaded on sub-assembly parts with correctly sized thread taps to clear or clean them of any bits of residual powder coat material that might get inside (it won't be much, but it could be just enough to necessitate putting back to together hardware assemblies) after coating. I'm confident everyone understands what "screw" means in this context though.

As usual, I've failed to properly convey my thoughts.
First, Cerakote is not powder coating, it is a wet film ceramic coating that must be fired to cure. There are DIY pretenders, but none as effective or durable. If you were around in the 70's and were of the mechanically afflicted, you may have seen headers or other parts subjected to high heat, coated with Jet Hot, it was the precursor to Cerakote but was a dip thin film ceramic coating rather than a spray application which was originally developed to protect jet engine exhaust nozzles from corrosion due to extend runs of their afterburner.
Be all that as it may, there is a very specific prohibition of any firearms discussion on the open portion of this forum, and I did not want to run afoul of that rule by saying Cerakote has proved both effective at preventing rust on ferrous metals while being extremely wear and heat resistant, on those items. Without getting too far afield I can attest to Cerakoted charging handles with thousands of strokes on them and not enough loss in coating thickness to be notable. Hopefully, this clears any misconceptions I may have fostered with my attempt to stay within TB rules.

And BTW, run some sacrificial screws into those threaded holes before powder coating, then use a razor blade to cut the paint on the screw flush with the surface it's run in before removing it to avoid any paint chipping or clogged threads.

 

[Grinderman]

As usual, I've failed to properly convey my thoughts.
First, Cerakote is not powder coating, it is a wet film ceramic coating that must be fired to cure. There are DIY pretenders, but none as effective or durable. If you were around in the 70's and were of the mechanically afflicted, you may have seen headers or other parts subjected to high heat, coated with Jet Hot, it was the precursor to Cerakote but was a dip thin film ceramic coating rather than a spray application which was originally developed to protect jet engine exhaust nozzles from corrosion due to extend runs of their afterburner.
Be all that as it may, there is a very specific prohibition of any firearms discussion on the open portion of this forum, and I did not want to run afoul of that rule by saying Cerakote has proved both effective at preventing rust on ferrous metals and being extremely wear and heat resistant, on those items. Without getting too far afield I can attest to Cerakoted charging handles with thousands of strokes on them and not enough loss in coating thickness to be notable. Hopefully, this clears any misconceptions I may have fostered with my attempt to stay within TB rules.

And BTW, run some sacrificial screws into those threaded holes before powder coating, then use a razor blade to cut the paint on the screw flush with the surface it's run in before removing it to avoid any paint chipping or clogged threads.

Interesting. Would a small ceramic pottery glazing kiln be suitable for firing DIY applications of Cerakote?

//Scales well. Avoiding dealing with a commercial powder coating line for small-scale projects involving multiple small sub-assembly parts could be advantageous; avoiding hassles and possible F-U quotes from powder coaters. (they want much larger jobs)

 

[fhm555]

Interesting. Would a small ceramic pottery glazing kiln be suitable for firing DIY applications of Cerakote?

I have not gone that far down the rabbit hole yet, but have thought about looking into becoming an approved applicator once I get my new shop up and running. Here's a lift from their web site that may be helpful as I'm not sure what a pottery glazing kiln can do.

-Recommended Cure Temperatures
Cerakote can be cured at the maximum Recommended Cure Temperature listed in the All in one TDS, based on color and substrate. Standardized curing temperature for H-Series is done at 250°F for 2 hours following a 15 minute ambient flash time. Standardized curing temperature for E-Series is 300°F for 1 hour following a 15 minute ambient flash time. Please reference the Cerakote Elite and H-Series Application Guide for additional cure schedule information.-

There is a competing product (DuraCoat Firearm Finishes), that used to offer a variation not requiring any heat cure, but scuttlebutt says they are not near as tough as Cerakote. Sorry, but I have not reread their current info to see if that option is still available. Back when they were the only game in town they offered DIY no cure camo paint sets, but then Cerakote came along and knocked them off that stump and I quit keeping up with Duracoat products.