Replacement bridge for Fender American Vintage Precision Bass?

[mcontour]

Hello Folks,

I'm looking for a replacement bridge for my American vintage precision bass. The original bridge has too much side to side play in the saddles.

The ideal bridge for me would have the following characteristics:

- Top loading strings
- Five mounting screws to match the stock holes
- Method to prevent saddles from moving sideways
- Adjustable string spacing
- Fits under the stock bridge cover (1963)

I have googled/found several options, but none that check all the boxes.

Perhaps there is one I missed?

Thanks for any insight you can offer.

Thanks!

Michael

 

[JimmyM]

That'll be a tough one. The only bent plate bridges with tracks for the saddle screws that I've seen are the ones for the older American Deluxe basses, which are 3-screw and can be strung thru body or top loaded. Don't know why they don't etch tracks in them, but OTOH, even though I've got a bent plate bridge that does the side-to-side thing, never once has it been an issue for me. You could possibly find a metalworker who can etch tracks into one for you, though.

 

[mcontour]

Thanks Jimmy.

The side to side thing is an issue for the following reason....When I try to move the E and G strings to the innermost groove closes to their intonation screws, the string segment from the ball end to the saddle is no longer in line with the string segment from the saddle to the nut. When I bring the string tension up to pitch, the string tension pulls the saddle outward so that the entire string is again in one straight line. As a result, I cannot achieve the string spacing I am looking for.

 

[bassdude51]

I'm thinking a Fender bent plate threaded saddle bridge. The best bridge for a Fender Bass.

I position my E and G saddles at about 1.5mm from the edge. If lined up correctly, E and G are about 1.5mm from the edge of the bridge plate.

I also try my best to get the E and G strings exactly the same at the edge of the neck at fret #20. Usually, that is about 5mm from the edge of the string to the edge of the neck @ fret #20. Jump the strings on the threads of the saddles to get this correct. All the while trying to keep the strings passing through the magnet poles correctly.

I've never had a problem with my saddles sliding one way or the other but if it is a problem, a zip tie can be used to hug the intonation screws together or if the height screws are up high enough, put the zip tie around those screws. (Kind of difficult to explain verbally.)

 

[Chasarms]

...Fits under the stock bridge cover (1963)...

I think this requirement may make it far more difficult.

 

[Aeolian]

Many a bad idea but perhaps shim the neck a little to be able to raise the action on the bridge screws and then the downward pressure from the strings on the saddles might prevent the saddles from sliding side to side?

 

[thisSNsucks]

I don't know if there's a quantity minimum but hipshot does make their vintage bent plate bridge without the lip on the back and with threaded saddles.

The outer saddles have channels they sit in to keep them from moving, threaded saddles mean adjustable string spacing, it's 5 hole mount, quick change top loader and it should fit under the bridge cover if you get one without the lip.

Worth a shot to call them.