I just got a fxer upper bass on e bay and it a Yamaha rbx260. The trouble is I thought I could glue the neck crack in it. But the craclk is in the headstock and runs right under a tuning peg and when I tune it up the crack upens up becasue of the tension. Now here is my problem ...where on earth do you get a 24 fret repalcement neck? i cant find one out here in cyber pace only 22 fret ones.
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replacement necks
- Thread starter Lowner
- Start date
- Dec 20, 2004
- 4,267
- 2,481
- Disclosures
- Player-Builder-Founder: Honey Badger Pickups & Regenerate Guitar Works
I recommend you take it to a qualified repair person for a properly done repair. cracks can be fixed of you know what you're doing.
All the best,
R
All the best,
R
Rodent said:
I did and they told me to buy a new neck because it was not work repairing and that every time I would tune the bass the tension on the strings would pull the crack apart again in a few months. This is not a crack that is where the head stock and the neck meet but rather runs the headstock right under the hole for the tuning peg of the e string.And even goes into that hole as well. Cant post pics because it does not show up in the pics.
I don't think you'll find a replacement Yammie neck like that. I'd recommend either go with the repair, find someone who isn't afraid to do it, or ditch the bass all together.
I am not necessarily looking for a Yammy neck ,just a 24 fret replacement that wil fit that's all. I once found a guitar body for 5 bucks with working pick ups at a flea market. It took me almost a year to find a neck for it. I ended up getting a telecaster neck for it after holding onto the guitar for almost a year. So itf I dont find anything right away I thing I wil just hold onto it and eventually it will come my way. I will build my bass yet.
I find it hard to beleive it cannot be fixed. Plain old Titebond II would work just fine. Open up the crack (if you can), and fillit with glue, making sure that the crack gets glue all the way back in it. You can use a razor blade or piece or paper to work the glue in.
Yellow glues, when bonded to wood, create a bond stronger than the wood itself. If the crack opens again, it won't be where it was glued.
Yellow glues, when bonded to wood, create a bond stronger than the wood itself. If the crack opens again, it won't be where it was glued.
If you think repair is not your route, then you should either:
buy a rbx from somewhere and change the neck (this is if you REALLY want to keep your bass)
other than that its probably not that worth it to replace parts
buy a rbx from somewhere and change the neck (this is if you REALLY want to keep your bass)
other than that its probably not that worth it to replace parts
well, I decided to do repair it myself. I googled repairing a cracked neck .The only thing I fouind was this Invalid Link Removed and went from there. I heated the wood with a hair dryer a bit to make the wood expand and then broke the split completley by smaking the hot wood with a rubber mallet.I used that titebond wood glue that was left over from gluing the leg back onto a kitchen chair. I spread the glue on the neck and the cracked piece and then put clamps on it. Right now the glue is drying. i figured on friday I will take the clamps off and sand it down.
- Dec 20, 2004
- 4,267
- 2,481
- Disclosures
- Player-Builder-Founder: Honey Badger Pickups & Regenerate Guitar Works
and another luthier was born 
gotsta be careful - once you fix one thing, all your friends will start heading your way and pretty soon you'll have a repair business on the side ... which will eventually be followed by a small shop to assemble basses from parts ... which will lead to a small shop where you build from scratch
but then, don't ask me how I know this
All the best,
R
gotsta be careful - once you fix one thing, all your friends will start heading your way and pretty soon you'll have a repair business on the side ... which will eventually be followed by a small shop to assemble basses from parts ... which will lead to a small shop where you build from scratch
but then, don't ask me how I know this
All the best,
R
Sounds good. We want pics of the repair when complete and a detailed explination on how well it worked 
Follow the instructions on the glue bottle. Titebond only needs to be clamped for 30 minuts, then you can start working with it. Just don't stress the joint, sanding off the glue excess won't hurt it, just don't string it up. Waiting until Friday is pointless.
Remember, the instructions on the bottle are there for a reason, the manufacturer wants you to succeed.
Just as a side note, I had a bookmatched piece of mahogany I was working with, 3/4" thick. I wanted to test the instructions, so glued it, ate lunch, came back took off the clamps, then bandsawed out a profile. No breaks. Then, I took a drop, and broke it right on the joint over the edge of a workbench, and the wood broke, not the glue joint. Remember, it was 3/4" thick, and it still broke the wood. That was after about an hour of dry time. Wood glue is not joke, Alphatic glue actually welds glue together.
Remember, the instructions on the bottle are there for a reason, the manufacturer wants you to succeed.
Just as a side note, I had a bookmatched piece of mahogany I was working with, 3/4" thick. I wanted to test the instructions, so glued it, ate lunch, came back took off the clamps, then bandsawed out a profile. No breaks. Then, I took a drop, and broke it right on the joint over the edge of a workbench, and the wood broke, not the glue joint. Remember, it was 3/4" thick, and it still broke the wood. That was after about an hour of dry time. Wood glue is not joke, Alphatic glue actually welds glue together.
