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Replacement speaker for Mesa subway 115

That's what I figured too. And since I have the old Eminence and really nothing in it, if I blow the Mesa cabinet in to pieces , or space, or destroy the speaker .I won't be out much for a little work and enjoyment.
If you use the Eminence driver, please remove the Mesa & Subway logo (it’s no longer a Mesa Subway) and please do not misrepresent it as a Subway if you sell it that way, it’s not fair to a future buyer.
 
If you use the Eminence driver, please remove the Mesa & Subway logo (it’s no longer a Mesa Subway) and please do not misrepresent it as a Subway if you sell it that way, it’s not fair to a future buyer.
That's not your call. He's the owner and can do what he wants. If he sells it, he should tell the buyer however.
 
That's what I figured too. And since I have the old Eminence and really nothing in it, if I blow the Mesa cabinet in to pieces , or space, or destroy the speaker .I won't be out much for a little work and enjoyment.
That's funny because the cab will not be blown to pieces.. The speaker will be fine as long as your ears guide you.
 
Since I designed the speaker, I am uniquely qualified to state how a speaker will affect performance. I’m not talking about tone, I’m talking about bandwidth, sensitivity, mechanical power handling, damping.

The stock driver was selected with all of this in mind, the differences are very significant (night and day comes to mind), and the Delta 15a is an inferior driver for this cabinet. I know this for fact.

It would be helpful to the OP for those who don’t know what they are talking about to quit giving bad advice.
 
To put my comments into perspective as to WHY the advice of using a Delta 15A in the Subway cabinet is poor (actually a terrible) choice, here are the numbers that back up my comments:

Delta 15A:
F3 = 77Hz
F6 = 65Hz
F10 = 53Hz
Sensitivity = 98dB/1W/1M, 50Hz - 5kHz
Mechanical power handling: 90 watts RMS between 70 and 110Hz

Factory Driver:
F3 = 56.6Hz
F6 = 47.2Hz
F10 = 38.1Hz
Sensitivity = 98.5dB/1W/1M, 50Hz - 5kHz
Mechanical power handling: 400 watts RMS above 50Hz
 
To put my comments into perspective as to WHY the advice of using a Delta 15A in the Subway cabinet is poor (actually a terrible) choice, here are the numbers that back up my comments:

Delta 15A:
F3 = 77Hz
F6 = 65Hz
F10 = 53Hz
Sensitivity = 98dB/1W/1M, 50Hz - 5kHz
Mechanical power handling: 90 watts RMS between 70 and 110Hz

Factory Driver:
F3 = 56.6Hz
F6 = 47.2Hz
F10 = 38.1Hz
Sensitivity = 98.5dB/1W/1M, 50Hz - 5kHz
Mechanical power handling: 400 watts RMS above 50Hz

WoW.
That IS quite a difference. I'd go for the Factory driver, but, ya know, that's just me. ;)


T$
 
Hah. Look at those numbers and try to convince no one that the Delta is a good choice for that cabinet.

However, if someone needs a lesson in what it sounds like to destroy a speaker, that Delta is a prime candidate for that cabinet.

Enjoy that power handling (for a very short time)!
Even though the published power handling of the delta 15A is 400 watts, for bass guitar applications where mechanical displacement is usually the dominant limiting factor, this example shows how limiting and why designers who base their designs on science and engineering make the choices they do. Using science and engineering does not necessarily exclude artistic choices but can be used to exclude designs that will not hold up or deliver the necessary performance in the real world.
 
WoW.
That IS quite a difference. I'd go for the Factory driver, but, ya know, that's just me. ;)


T$
The whole point is the 300 bucks the OP will have to spend to get it. Of course the factory speaker is more suited to the cab. Maybe you guys can open a GoFundMe page for everybody who needs new speakers but can't afford them in the age of COVID. My only suggestion is pop in the speaker he's got and give it a run. Blowing it up would be difficult to do unless he wants to blow it up. Agedhorse himself has spoken frequently about avoiding blowing up drivers and I agree with him.
 
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The whole point is the 300 bucks the OP will have to spend to get it. Of course the factory speaker is more suited to the cab. Maybe you guys can open a GoFundMe page for everybody who needs new speakers but can't afford them in the age of COVID. My only suggestion is pop in the speaker he's got and give it a run. Blowing it up would be difficult to do unless he wants to blow it up. Agedhorse himself has spoken frequently about avoiding blowing up drivers and I agree with him.
You did see that that speaker in that box with its size and port tuning makes it a 90 Watt speaker?

That box makes this good speaker that is listed as 400 watts if in the right cab size as robust as a cheap combo amp. :cautious: