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Replacement tuners for Squier P

Raman

Raman

Feb 19, 2003
2,223
3,273
53
Montreal, Qc
#1
Hi,

I know it's been asked before, and I did read most of it.

I recently bought a Squier Precision Classic Vibe 70s. I'm really happy with the bass, except for the tuners. They have slop and backlash. It's really hard to hit it right when tuning. And I need to re-tune the bass more often than I've ever been used to with other instruments.

So I'm looking for replacement tuners, the drop-in type if possible. I will not bore new holes for larger tuning pegs: I neither possess the tools nor have the aptitudes. If at all possible, I'd like to use the current bushings. And I'm also on a budget.

Is there anything that would count as an upgrade along those parameters?
 
#3
Raman said:
Hi,

I know it's been asked before, and I did read most of it.

I recently bought a Squier Precision Classic Vibe 70s. I'm really happy with the bass, except for the tuners. They have slop and backlash. It's really hard to hit it right when tuning. And I need to re-tune the bass more often than I've ever been used to with other instruments.

So I'm looking for replacement tuners, the drop-in type if possible. I will not bore new holes for larger tuning pegs: I neither possess the tools nor have the aptitudes. If at all possible, I'd like to use the current bushings. And I'm also on a budget.

Is there anything that would count as an upgrade along those parameters?
Click to expand...

Actually getting ready to try to install HB1's in a Squier CV Mustang Bass, check out this thread on how it works and lessons learned, should be done by tommorrow

Upgrades, what works? Some links
 
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#7
Raman said:
Hi,

I know it's been asked before, and I did read most of it.

I recently bought a Squier Precision Classic Vibe 70s. I'm really happy with the bass, except for the tuners. They have slop and backlash. It's really hard to hit it right when tuning. And I need to re-tune the bass more often than I've ever been used to with other instruments.

So I'm looking for replacement tuners, the drop-in type if possible. I will not bore new holes for larger tuning pegs: I neither possess the tools nor have the aptitudes. If at all possible, I'd like to use the current bushings. And I'm also on a budget.

Is there anything that would count as an upgrade along those parameters?
Click to expand...
I Put Hipshot HB1's in my Squier CV Mustang, pics below how I did it, any questions please ask
MustHB1a.JPG MustHB1b.JPG MustHB1c.JPG MustHB1d.JPG
 
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#9
sc_precision said:
What drilling was involved? Why the tape? Tips how to do please? I have a Squier Classic Vibe 70s Jazz.
Click to expand...
The bottom holes on the tuners match, the top holes don't. so i taped the top holes mounted the new tuners with the bottom holes. Then marked the top holes of the new tuners on the tape. then drilled new top holes. If your unsure what size holes to drill drill test holes in some spare wood. I wrap some tape around the drill bit to mark how deep to drill, so I don't go through.
 
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#10
sc_precision said:
What drilling was involved? Why the tape? Tips how to do please? I have a Squier Classic Vibe 70s Jazz.
Click to expand...
Important note! Mounting screws are easily broken if your pilot holes are too narrow. Use a drill large enough that the screws thread into the holes easily, but not sloppy. These screws only need to keep the tuner flat and keep the tuner from rotating. We aren’t torquing a cylinder head down, just holding the tuners in place.

Only the threads need to bite into the wood, not the screw shaft.

Pilot holes that are too narrow break screws and hearts, and even a headstock may split as the screw is introduced.
 
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#14
I see this thread is a year old, but fwiw:

It was said in another thread a few days ago, that using different tuners could possibly reduce the sonics & intensify dead spots on the fretboard. If it is just slop and not staying in tune, I would just replace with stock Fenders---then you don't have to drill or anything. I put Hipshot UL on my precision and there are a couple dead spots, but I only notice it when I play softly, so it really does not matter, because I play HC loud punk stuff mostly.
 
Last edited:
#15
Pyrrho Epoche said:
I see this thread is a year old, but fwiw:

It was said in another thread a few days ago, that using different tuners could possibly reduce the sonics & intensify dead spots on the fretboard. If it is just slop and not staying in tune, I would just replace with stock Fenders---then you don't have to drill or anything. I put Hipshot UL on my precision and there are a couple dead spots, but I only notice it when I play softly, so it really does not matter, because I play HC loud punk stuff mostly.
Click to expand...
Can you point out to that thread about sonics and dead spots? Thanks,
 
#17
Pyrrho Epoche said:
I tried looking back, I cannot recall.
Here is a thread, with mixed opinions. Maybe it will help your search:
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/light-weight-tuning-machines-fsos-and-dead-spots.1582025/
Click to expand...

Interesting... Not much of a discussion. Could the a one guy opinion. That said, Peavey at one point started the "power plate" lines on their basses (I have a Millennium with that). They also mentioned that the power plate reduces eliminates dead spots and improves sustain.
That bass, indeed has pretty noticeable sustain difference and I have not yet encountered any basses with dead spots although, the only FSO I got has a stingray neck in it. So no dead spots there either.
This can be an interesting topic to start if anyone notices any change in dead sports with changing the tuners.
 
#18
kgbeast said:
Interesting... Not much of a discussion. Could the a one guy opinion. That said, Peavey at one point started the "power plate" lines on their basses (I have a Millennium with that). They also mentioned that the power plate reduces eliminates dead spots and improves sustain.
That bass, indeed has pretty noticeable sustain difference and I have not yet encountered any basses with dead spots although, the only FSO I got has a stingray neck in it. So no dead spots there either.
This can be an interesting topic to start if anyone notices any change in dead sports with changing the tuners.
Click to expand...
Yea, there is a bunch of threads already. I think upgrading and filing new nuts can help too.
 
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#19
I have a Frank JB. It currently has 19:1, very old open gear tuners some of which are looser than others, but seems to be holding tune fine. I always wanted something with higher ratio like the sealed tuners, I think these are 26:1.
I have decided to try Musiclilly set for $21. The measurements that were available matched what I have and the appearance is good. When they showed up, first they were very tight. The 4 holes lined up, but only without the actual peg which ended up about a millimeter out. I tried swapping the base plate, which in my case worked even though the handle/worm thing was slightly smaller diameter. Like I could put Musiclilly handle on my plate, but not my handle on Musiclilly plate. That worked almost, but the gears on the Musiclilly tuners are very rough and operation is not smooth and very tight. The bushings are also too small and I had to add some tape so it stays put. So after all, I concluded that the Musiclilly tuners are no go, neither transfered to my original plate, not as they come stock. All gear faces are gnarly and operate very cheap. The tensioner plate under the gear is also a sandwich of steel and soft plastic... Probably yo make these run at least a little smoother. I am sending these back. The old tuners are back in. So if you considered the Musiclilly M180-4... Not great. Packaging is great, looks grate, but works so so at best. Definitely a case of you get that you paid for. I did not expect much and was not surprised. I bought that from Amazon knowing I can return them without any problem, otherwise I would not have tried them. Musiclilly pickguards, knobs, pots, screws, are all fine, but these tuners are not really.
 
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