The Eden WT300 and WT400 were class A/B amps and used toroidal transformers, not ICE power modules. The early Eden gear that used ICE power modules were the WTX500 and WTX260 (later renamed WTX264).
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Replacing the power amp board with ICEpower
- Thread starter Thumpin6string
- Start date
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,076
- 46,030
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
If you want to do this it's up to you to do your homework. I have zero working familiarity with your amp or the 300AS1 module and therefore have no idea what your potential application actually will need to be successful. I can tell you though that my first DIY bass amp build using an ICEpower module took me a couple of hundred hours to properly research and realize physically. And that was starting with a white sheet, which is much easier than doing a retrofit in some ways.
I know that. I was talking about the power amp I want to replace with the ICE.
Just a thought. Would it be more cost / time effective to go post EQ out to a dedicated power amp like a Crown XLS-1000 or similar that is already set up for a line level input? I had one it was less than 10 lbs. There are many great power amps out there.
Of course it would, but occasionally, one can develop a curiosity to pursue a project to see if it will fly. I used to be like that with old, cheap basses and old pianos. Thankfully, with the pianos, I had a big stock of used piano parts and could refurbish an older, neglected piano and even sell it and make a little money. These days, I’ve grown out of the “let’s see what it will do” phase (with both basses and pianos!).
The catch, of course, is to be knowledgeable enough to be successful, or at least to not fail miserably and possibly cause more damage.
Which makes this particular endeavor seem
dubious and ill-conceived at best. I wish the OP luck.
If you don’t understand the spec sheets, perhaps buy a small, prepackaged class D amp and place it inside the A.M.P.? With suitable airflow available, of course.
Looking at the 300AS1 spec sheet, it would seem only 7 connections are required for always on operation. Line, Neutral, Signal GND, Signal In -, Signal In +, OUT+, and OUT-.
Further, the spec sheet lists a 50 Vp max output and 28 dB voltage gain which makes the max signal input voltage about 2 Vp. That sounds quite reasonable.
Looking at the 300AS1 spec sheet, it would seem only 7 connections are required for always on operation. Line, Neutral, Signal GND, Signal In -, Signal In +, OUT+, and OUT-.
Further, the spec sheet lists a 50 Vp max output and 28 dB voltage gain which makes the max signal input voltage about 2 Vp. That sounds quite reasonable.
Last edited:
That was a thought too. The 7 connections were what I thought made sense. I just would like to understand what the others are for.
That is an option. I could also run it through my Shuttlmax 12.0, but it would be nice if it could be a stand alone head again.
Me too.
I used to gig the old AMP 420 heads... so cool.
A good place to start might be to just clear out all the old stuff, and break it down to just a preamp. Good first step, would give you an idea of what you are getting into, tell you if the preamp section works and sounds good. Anyway, would get you part of the way there... I agree a stand alone would be very cool.
++++ of course, I have NO IDEA what I'm actually talking about - just love a good project, and love those AMP heads. +++++
Cool thread:
Milkman Hybrid update : The Steel Guitar Forum
Last edited:
I sent you a PM, I’m in Fort Wayne, there probably is a bias issue, or out of tolerance components in the driver section, you need to check all the associated components. I’m confident I can fix it, let me know.
The spec sheet pretty clearly explains each one.
I have an older A.M.P. 220 bass head with a blown power amp board. The parts to repair it are no longer available and the ones found online are counterfeit. Since I like the preamp section in this amp, I thought it would be cool to convert it to a class D. I have access to a couple ICEpower modules. So my question, has anyone here on TB replaced a class A/B power amp with an ICEpower module and if so, how hard was it? I haven't found much info on the wiring of these modules. I have electronic experience and have repaired amps in the past. Just want to see if this is feasible. Looking forward to the insight of my fellow TBers.
It might be simpler to just rebuild the existing power amp, even if the exact part-number transistors are NLA, they can probably be substituted with newer, legitimate parts from reliable sources, and get it up and running again.
I don't have the diagram nor part numbers for this amp. Got a link?
Counterfeit electronic parts are so prevalent now that it isn't worth bothering with them anymore. They're down to simply removing the part number from chips and transistors that are in the same package and re-marking them with whatever seems more profitable.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,038
- 5
- 220,969
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
The TC BAM200 is cheapish and very small, and all the explodey ones should be out of the market by now.
NOTE: I started the reply last might.
Tldr; Good luck be safe
It may be easier to tap into the FX out and somehow fit a functioning class D power amp like a Jay Ganz inside the chassis. Have you at least tried to build a simple amp either tube or solid state? Can you build a simple overdrive pedal from scratch? Any maker experience like simple robots or microcontrollers like Arduino or Raspberry Pi and adding modules in it. There are actually some simple PWM amp boards that can interface with these MCUs and give you some idea how they function. They also have PWM built in and you can drive a speaker just from that. That will teach you a lot before diving into a high powered ICE module.
Do you have a good scope and accessories. I also recommend a good soldering station and a solder sucker. You need a drill press it doesn't matter how steady your hand is, a hand-held drill is a disaster waiting to happen. Ask me how I know this.
Anyway -- me myself I have done DIY tube amps (5 watt to 30 watt) , load boxes, but no pedals. I did this with my friend who is an EE. I definitely have Arduino and Raspberry Pi and robotics when my company went into the Maker business. I also understand digital protocols a lot. But I am a firmware guy. But even with that background, I will not attempt to mess with class D power modules. You really need to be an EE or some solid experience in the electronics industry.
I know it sounds I am discouraging. But maybe just get the FX out and plug it into a class D power amp. That may get you closer to the goal
Tldr; Good luck be safe
It may be easier to tap into the FX out and somehow fit a functioning class D power amp like a Jay Ganz inside the chassis. Have you at least tried to build a simple amp either tube or solid state? Can you build a simple overdrive pedal from scratch? Any maker experience like simple robots or microcontrollers like Arduino or Raspberry Pi and adding modules in it. There are actually some simple PWM amp boards that can interface with these MCUs and give you some idea how they function. They also have PWM built in and you can drive a speaker just from that. That will teach you a lot before diving into a high powered ICE module.
Do you have a good scope and accessories. I also recommend a good soldering station and a solder sucker. You need a drill press it doesn't matter how steady your hand is, a hand-held drill is a disaster waiting to happen. Ask me how I know this.
Anyway -- me myself I have done DIY tube amps (5 watt to 30 watt) , load boxes, but no pedals. I did this with my friend who is an EE. I definitely have Arduino and Raspberry Pi and robotics when my company went into the Maker business. I also understand digital protocols a lot. But I am a firmware guy. But even with that background, I will not attempt to mess with class D power modules. You really need to be an EE or some solid experience in the electronics industry.
I know it sounds I am discouraging. But maybe just get the FX out and plug it into a class D power amp. That may get you closer to the goal
I've thought about using a prebuilt with the FX out, but I have access to both the ICE modules. I've never built any of those items. However, I do repair welder circuit control boards. Only the through hole boards. I have not messed with surface mount. Usually not cost effective. I have a solder station and everything else I need. I like a challenge and if it turns out to be unfeasible, I can always use it as a preamp and run it through my Shuttlemax 12.0.
If it is clear to you, then what are the signal sense pins and the trigger pins for?
I'm guessing the obsolete Sanken package.
Maybe 2SC5200OTU from OnSemi and its compliment 2SA1943?
Or MJ21195G / MJ21196G in metal TO3 package?
Seems like a nice roomy amp cabinet, probably ameniable to modding to accept a different transistor package. A few tweeks of the amp circuit and it should be good to go.
