Double Bass Reshaping my bass bridge

[Huy Nguyen]

So on my old Yamaha EUB the setup was done where it was evenly curved for Pizz playing but now that I'm doing more arco I'd like to reshape it so that the D string isn't so difficult to bow. I also own a regular DB that has already been shaped in the way I like so I'm thinking of transfering the curve over to the Yammie by creating a paper stencil.

I watched this video and it didn't seem all that hard and I have some woodworking skill.


I sharpen all my tools on japanese stones and can get them stupid sharp. I own a set of chisels, but no finger plane but i do have a mini block plane (Bridge City Tools). Thinking of doing this myself and following the same process as well as notching the new string grooves using a sharp marking knife.

Should I attempt this? Seems innocuous enough and if I screw up I'd order a new bridge. Thoughts?

Bridge in question:

 

[bassmanbrent]

Yes, I think you should! I have no useful advise to impart but hopefully others will...

 

[Karl Kaminski]

you certainly can do it—granted if there enough stock to work with/or new blank.

• a small block plane or sharpened Scrapper will help on the faces,
• knives are good for the sides/feet,
• and proper (correct diameter) round files for string slots.

Good luck with the setup!

 

[bassmanbrent]

In looking at your bridge again, the only thing I can think to mention that might be useful is that it looks like there isn't a lot of material available to remove on the bridge crown and your adjusters look like they're pretty close to being maxed out. All this to say you don't have too much room for error with your existing bridge...

 

[Don Hergert]

There is a relationship between the bridge arch and the fingerboard arch....

If you modify the arch of your bridge but don't also modify the arch of your fingerboard, you may get buzzing, especially in the higher positions on your outer strings.

The fingerboard arch and the relief related aspect makes this project much more complicated. If it were me, I'd have a luthier do this work.

 

[dperrott]

Bridge work is hard! The curvature of the bridge needs to match the curve of the board. Lot of those EUB's have a more flat radius. Ideally the strings are 1 mm different in height from each string. That may change do to the curvature of the board, or if you have a beveled board. You need to check that first and see what is off. Standard height is 6mm G to 9 mm E. You need a bridge curvature template. You can't just wing it Could make a template from your other bass. Mark down from the top of the bridge where you want the strings and see how it works with the template. You may have to recut the whole bridge top and then raise your adjusters so you have to know if you have the room with the adjusters. Bass bridges are a lot thicker then the upper strings bridges, and those EUB bridges are very thick. It would really be hard to knife it. Mostly use a disk/belt sander to shape the curvature but I guess you could plane it if that's all you had. String centers should be 1 1/16 on center. Bridge work is very fussy. Yes you will probably mess it up (I have been there) and need another bridge and for that you need a luthier. Trying to fit the feet is hard and very hard when the this EUB bridges come with adjusters already in it.

 

[Huy Nguyen]

There is a relationship between the bridge arch and the fingerboard arch....

If you modify the arch of your bridge but don't also modify the arch of your fingerboard, you may get buzzing, especially in the higher positions on your outer strings.

The fingerboard arch and the relief related aspect makes this project much more complicated. If it were me, I'd have a luthier do this work.

Ugh no. I did mess around with the fingerboard years ago and it was very difficult to plane. That's what i was afraid of and why I started this thread.

I did recently lower the strings a bit so there is a little more room but I think in the previous work on the fingerboard i'm concerned there isn't enough material to do a bevel. Not sure if this instrument is worth it.

 

[Huy Nguyen]

Could make a template from your other bass. Mark down from the top of the bridge where you want the strings and see how it works with the template. You may have to recut the whole bridge top and then raise your adjusters so you have to know if you have the room with the adjusters. Bass bridges are a lot thicker then the upper strings bridges, and those EUB bridges are very thick. It would really be hard to knife it. Mostly use a disk/belt sander to shape the curvature but I guess you could plane it if that's all you had. String centers should be 1 1/16 on center. Bridge work is very fussy. Yes you will probably mess it up (I have been there) and need another bridge and for that you need a luthier. Trying to fit the feet is hard and very hard when the this EUB bridges come with adjusters already in it.

Yes that's what I was thinking to use the other bridge to create a stencil/template. To the luthier I guess I shall go, if I go. I don't want to go through the pain of planing this fingerboard. It wasn't fun when I tried it and not something I want to do myself. Would rather pay someone to do it for me and do it correctly.