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Rick 4003SW - US quality rant...

I worked a lot of OT last year - ended up with a reasonably good cash position so my wife and I both lavished ourselves with a new toy. I've wanted a Rick for a long time, and fell in love with the 4003SW when it came out, so that got my vote. MF allowed me to use a 15% discount coupon off their normal price, so I ordered it at "a relatively reasonable price". Came yesterday. Instrument was beautiful, set up reasonably well - but within 1 minute of plugging it in, found that the pickup selector switch was defective - would not work in the bridge or both pickup position. No output unless you wiggled it around - it might stay in position and work but probably not.

My wife bought a Brother PE770 embroidery machine. Amazing - has a whole bunch of embedded patterns, user friendly interface, precision x-y table movement, automatic needle threading. Really fun to watch. Probably 4 orders of magnitude more technologically and functionally sophisiticated than my bass. It was less than half the cost of the bass and worked flawlessly out of the box.

Why does a sophisticated machine from the far east work perfectly, and a storied "reputable" US manufacturer can't even get a 3 way switch right???

Shoot arrows at me for buying from MF where they don't do any setup or checkout if you like. That's not the point. Since they do nothing with the instrument there (and no evidence of any shipping damage), it pretty much says this major, easily detectable defect left the factory like that. How can this be allowed to happen???

MF is great about it, emailed me a pre-paid return & it's on the way back. They'll replace it of course and I'll hope for better luck with the next one. Bottom line is I want the instrument despite this sorry showing.

I've experienced out of box isssues with new Gibson's as well. For whatever reason the appeal of the instruments outweigh the irritation of these unacceptable escapes. Shame on me for tolerating it, I guess.

BUT WHY DOES IT HAVE TO BE THIS WAY????

I got a new 4003sw recently and it was great ... the pickup selector switch is not a good design ... But it is retro ... most Ric buyers want retro ... that is why the 4003 sells better than the 4004.

I have had the selector malfunction on a couple of Rics ... It can usually be fixed by bending the prongs, and if not then it can be replaced.
 
Seriously? The components on a $2k bass are so flimsy they get knocked out of wack during shipping and you are expected to repair, or replace it??
Did I say that? :confused:

The Switchcraft part is very well made and will far outlast a whole lot of other switch designs. What happens with them, though, is that due to their open frame construction, is that something such as the pickup lead could get in a position that it prevents the switch from moving. I have been playing Rickenbacker instruments (basses and guitars) since 1973, the only time I have had this kind of issue is if I did not make sure the lead was back in the channel after doing some work on one, such as putting in a different pickup, for example. RIC could probably use a different switch but it would not be as robust as the Switchcraft one. Plus, due to its design, the Switchcraft can be adjusted or clean the contacts easily if needed, unlike closed switches. Closed box switches would just be replaced. Another thing great about these Switchcraft switches is their modularity; individual parts can be replaced, not the whole switch, if necessary. 15 years ago I ordered a guitar from another well known So Cal (direct only) manufacturer; within a week of playing I had to replace the closed, non-servicable pickup selector switch (some simple soldering involved). If it were a Switchcraft that would have been easy to see what was going on to correct, no replacement necessary. In the case of the OP's bass (just going by his description of the symptoms) it was easy to deduce (for me, anyway) that the switch was just being blocked from moving, something that would have taken about 2 minutes to take care of. He did not know that so he returned the instrument; from what I read above, he has the knowledge and skills to replace a faulty switch if needed, and with the knowledge he has gained in this er, discussion, he can now deal with this, if it should occur again, in the future. :cool:
 
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For those who have never looked inside a Rick bass before, here is a '98 4001V63 showing the neck pickup lead channel, and the Switchcraft pickup selector switch, and the pickup lead running next to it.

View attachment 768624
Photograph Copyright © Jeffrey P. Scott 2005 All rights reserved.

View attachment 768625
Photograph Copyright © Jeffrey P. Scott 2005 All rights reserved.

That looks very scary to me. I'm not good at wiring and electronics. If something is mechanically wrong with my car, I can usually fix it. If my vacuum cleaner isn't working right, then I'll fix it. Something not right with the house - I'm on it. But soldering...figuring out which wire goes where...I get someone else to take care of that.

However, if I purchased a brand new dryer, and the selector switch didn't work...it doesn't matter if the dryer cost $200 or $1200, I want the company I purchased it from to fix it (or have it fixed). I purchased a brand new expensive item, and I expect it to work perfectly when I get it. I'd also be fine with a replacement, as (in my mind) this may be indicative of other problems that I have yet to encounter. I don't see why I should not have that same viewpoint when I purchase a brand new musical instrument.

If it's a problem that happened during shipping, then it's still on either the company that sold me the item, or the company that shipped the item, to fix it. If I purchase a brand new item, then it should work perfectly when I receive it. That's pretty much how it's suppose to go: you buy something new, it works. If it doesn't work, the people that sold it to you fix or replace it.
 
I received a new 4003sw this week...."mail-order". Removed the bridge pup cover. Strung it with TI Flats. Set the action and intonation. Set the pup heights. Rolled the edges of the fret board. Filed the frets. Adjusted the truss rods. Then, I played the heck out of it last night on a 4 hour gig. Love this bass!
If the bass had had a faulty switch or any other issue, I would have fixed it. I'm not a luthier. I'm a player of 40 plus years. Once you learn your instrument you "learn" your instrument.
Nothing is perfect. My new Ric wasn't, but I wanted a Ric. I've owned enough basses to know that if I bought a mail-order bass I'd probably have to tweek and adjust it to make it fit ME.
Rickenbacker builds a quality bass, but it's definitely not for the novice.
I'd love to say "stop whining!".....but I won't. ;)
 
I received a new 4003sw this week...."mail-order". Removed the bridge pup cover. Strung it with TI Flats. Set the action and intonation. Set the pup heights. Rolled the edges of the fret board. Filed the frets. Adjusted the truss rods. Then, I played the heck out of it last night on a 4 hour gig. Love this bass!
If the bass had had a faulty switch or any other issue, I would have fixed it. I'm not a luthier. I'm a player of 40 plus years. Once you learn your instrument you "learn" your instrument.
Nothing is perfect. My new Ric wasn't, but I wanted a Ric. I've owned enough basses to know that if I bought a mail-order bass I'd probably have to tweek and adjust it to make it fit ME.
Rickenbacker builds a quality bass, but it's definitely not for the novice.
I'd love to say "stop whining!".....but I won't. ;)

Wow. I would never spend that much on a bass that needed to have the frets filed and finger board rolled... But that's just me.
 
However, if I purchased a brand new dryer, and the selector switch didn't work...it doesn't matter if the dryer cost $200 or $1200, I want the company I purchased it from to fix it (or have it fixed). I purchased a brand new expensive item, and I expect it to work perfectly when I get it. I'd also be fine with a replacement, as (in my mind) this may be indicative of other problems that I have yet to encounter. I don't see why I should not have that same viewpoint when I purchase a brand new musical instrument.

If it's a problem that happened during shipping, then it's still on either the company that sold me the item, or the company that shipped the item, to fix it. If I purchase a brand new item, then it should work perfectly when I receive it. That's pretty much how it's suppose to go: you buy something new, it works. If it doesn't work, the people that sold it to you fix or replace it.

Totally agree. At 2k$-ish, I expect any music gear I buy to be as "turn-key" as it gets.

Brand name recognition still goes a long way though, and musicians (still) tend to be more forgiving towards a name that holds a certain tradition.
 
I received a new 4003sw this week...."mail-order". Removed the bridge pup cover. Strung it with TI Flats. Set the action and intonation. Set the pup heights. Rolled the edges of the fret board. Filed the frets. Adjusted the truss rods. Then, I played the heck out of it last night on a 4 hour gig. Love this bass!
If the bass had had a faulty switch or any other issue, I would have fixed it. I'm not a luthier. I'm a player of 40 plus years. Once you learn your instrument you "learn" your instrument.
Nothing is perfect. My new Ric wasn't, but I wanted a Ric. I've owned enough basses to know that if I bought a mail-order bass I'd probably have to tweek and adjust it to make it fit ME.
Rickenbacker builds a quality bass, but it's definitely not for the novice.
I'd love to say "stop whining!".....but I won't. ;)
Ok, as the OP... let me just throw out a quick recalibration... I can fix anything with the electronics on an electric guitar. I have an MSEE. I fixed a friends Vox AC100CPH tube head last weekend. I actually like tinkering and fixing things, and making them better.

My point from the beginning... There is NO EXCUSE for me to have to put up with this crap on a brand new out of the box instrument that cost me $1350. NONE! I didn't have to deal with it on my $150 Indonesian Squier bass. Why should I put up with it on a Rick that costs 10x as much ? Yes, I want the instrument. Yes, I adjust action, truss rods, and change strings on any stringed instrument willingly to match my tastes. I expect to do that. BUT THE THING SHOULD AT LEAST BE FUNCTIONAL OUT OF THE BOX!!! That's what pisses me off!!! The lack of commitment to quality on a "premium" US made product is disgusting. Whether it's a QC issue or a design issue - I don't care as a consumer. There is a problem here, and I shouldn't have been forced to deal with it.
 
CRAMOLIN.....IS YOUR FRIEND~!

If you are not familiar with CAIG LABS stuff by all means try it...
I do all the open back switches in my basses with this stuff every few years
(the humidity of NJ) and had to do BOTH my Ric 4003 basses out of the box
which I attribute to Ric having "old stock" of the switches
( many sitting in a bin for a long spell) before being installed. The switch itself
is quality but ANY open contact switch can have issues with long periods of
inactivity. (common problem with "NOS" switches for vintage gear)
CRAMOLIN R5 for switches and jacks
CRAMOLIN DeoxIT F for the pots.
 
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Brand name recognition still goes a long way though, and musicians (still) tend to be more forgiving towards a name that holds a certain tradition.
Being the imperfect person that I am, tradition isn't terribly important. Rics have a distinctive sound; just like Ps and Js. I relish the Ric sound over any others; it's just my background and my influences.
I can't comment about RIC's present quality control; mine is 43 years old.
So I should shut up!:D
 
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I love my Ric. They are eccentric. The company is eccentric. If you are not eccentric its not the bass for you. Then it's time to move on. No problem.

For me, I will put up with a 10 minute solder job to fix a new Ric that is otherwise awesome. I also have Italian motorcycles and drive a Saab, so I'm used to eccentric things. Again, that's me.

I can also see sending it back. Totally legit.
 
I bought a VERY expensive EBMM bass brand new. Ordered it in from GC in California. Got to me and the neck was back bowed BAD. I loosened the truss rod up all the way and the neck was still back bowed BAD. I took it to my local GC where I have a repoire with the in-house bass guru. He checked it out and agreed with my synopsis that it was a bad neck. I called the California store and explained the situation. The guy that sold me the bass was agitated that I was calling him with a complaint about the bass. He told me straight up that he wouldn't take the bass back because I likely broke the truss rod by messing with it. WHAT??!! It didn't matter that a broken rod wouldn't cause a neck to back bow. I messed with it so it was my baby. So there's your adjustable parameters. In the end, GC took the bass back, shipped it to EBMM, they fixed it, and I bought it back again. But for a while I was SOL. I agree with the OP. Messing with the bass can have bad ramifications. If it's not right, take the thing back. Let THEM make it right.
 
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I enjoy making something that's already good just a bit better.
Same here; I have modded almost all the basses I have owned over the decades. It's fun, although they do not need these things done to them. Pickups, tuning keys, electronics, bridges, etc., even on brands such as Alembic, and Zon, I just enjoy the art and craft of doing that.
 
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