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Rickenbacker 4003s vs 4003 necks

S

sarlscharisma

Nov 6, 2007
191
6
#1
I've got a 2007 Ric 4003 but I find the neck difficult to play. Its had a reasonable set up, but I find the neck chunky compared to my Fender J & Ps. I don't think it is a string height problem,

Problem is I love the sound. Like many have said previously ergonomics of a Ric is not to everyone taste and my arm does hurt after a rehearsal from resting on the binding edge.

So I can live with Ric burns on my forearms but not sure I'm going live with the neck for much longer.

To the point, does any know if the new 2015 4003S has a less chunky neck? It might be time for me to flip this one!
 
#2
LOL. I'm a Fender J & P player too, and you nailed my exact thoughts about Rics.

I just helped my son buy a Ric for graduation, I been playing his bass. I can live with the sharp binding, but I can't stand the neck profile, head dive, pickup guard position, low pickup output, and pickup hum. But, I still think the Ric is my favorite looking bass; I just can't stand playing it.

I think my issue with the Ric neck is not that it's chunky, but there is no taper to the neck. It feels like I'm playing a paper towel tube all the way out to the first fret. I have played my friend's original '72 Jazz that has a real chunky neck, but it has taper to it and it's much more comfortable to play than the Ric.

Sorry, I don't have anything to add about the 4003S.
 
#3
You're better off asking those who have recently bought 's' models and have experience with current and older 4003 necks as well.
The Rick club is the best place to try.

I suspect the necks are the same profile now, likely sharing the same CNC program as do the bodies.

The newer necks may be less chunky than your 2007, though.
 
#4
I bought a brand new Fireglo 4003 in December 2014, just prior to the announcement of the re-release of the 4003s. Being in a (mostly) acoustic Beatles band, I would have definitely focused on getting a 4003s had they been available.

That being said, my 4003 is gorgeous, lightweight, and has a very slim neck (front to back.) Because Rick's can vary so much in many ways, I tried it out in the store in person (ordering sight unseen was not an option for me.) Most of the reviews I have read on the 4003s basses on TB have mentioned chunky necks. I love the neck on mine. I think it simply comes down to finding one that suits you - it's out there.
 
#5
One thing i've found is that the necks can be a similar profile,but i think they just feel better without binding.
The girth doesn't particularly bother me like the binding does. Go figure......
I have 5 Rick basses,and the neck sizes are pretty different. (But they are all unbound...)
 
#7
I had a 2010 4003, which I sold 2 years ago, and the neck may have been wide but comfortable. I just got a new 4003S Wednesday, the neck seems to feel a bit thinner than my older 4003 was. I like it, I find it very comfortable. All in all i'm very happy with this bass. It arrived with almost perfect setup, and intonation was spot on, and the fit and finish is perfect! Sounds great too! Now for the disclaimer! I don't find neck size to be a real issue for me. I like thin, wide ,fat, and even shortscale! In fact I find my 18" fretless ubass to be comfortable! What bothered me was the binding on the 4003 digging into my forearm! I really like the contours on the new S bass! Nice and comfy! And unofficial bathroom scale weight was about 9 1/2 lbs. All that weight on your left shoulder, which is why I sold the 4003. I had a torn rotator cuff injury that made the bass feel like a cinderblock attached to a rope! Wasn't an issue with my other basses. I guess the weight is more distibuted on the other basses. But anyway i'm healed now and in Ric heaven again!
 
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#8
PCR said:
LOL. I'm a Fender J & P player too, and you nailed my exact thoughts about Rics.

I just helped my son buy a Ric for graduation, I been playing his bass. I can live with the sharp binding, but I can't stand the neck profile, head dive, pickup guard position, low pickup output, and pickup hum. But, I still think the Ric is my favorite looking bass; I just can't stand playing it.

I think my issue with the Ric neck is not that it's chunky, but there is no taper to the neck. It feels like I'm playing a paper towel tube all the way out to the first fret. I have played my friend's original '72 Jazz that has a real chunky neck, but it has taper to it and it's much more comfortable to play than the Ric.

Sorry, I don't have anything to add about the 4003S.
Click to expand...
You might want to bring the pickups closer to the strings. IMO my 4003 has the hottest pickups I've ever had on any passive bass- output should not be an issue.
 
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#9
Garret Graves said:
You might want to bring the pickups closer to the strings. IMO my 4003 has the hottest pickups I've ever had on any passive bass- output should not be an issue.
Click to expand...
My bridge pup was super hot, but my neck pup was maybe half the output of the bridge. A couple cranks on each of the poles and it balanced out nicely! Also you can remove the pickup guard if you want to. Joeysbassnotes.com will explain how to do it. I'm leaving mine on for now. Its a nice place to lay your hand if playing with a pick.
 
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#10
1stnamebassist said:
My bridge pup was super hot, but my neck pup was maybe half the output of the bridge. A couple cranks on each of the poles and it balanced out nicely! Also you can remove the pickup guard if you want to. Joeysbassnotes.com will explain how to do it. I'm leaving mine on for now. Its a nice place to lay your hand if playing with a pick.
Click to expand...
Congrats on your new bass 1stname (saw your other post)! The Joeysbassnotes sight is great, and I recommend you go and register your new bass on Rickresource too, good site to explore as well. Mine needed a lot of love out of the box- slotted the nut, as the strings were way too high, adjusted pickup heights and removed the treble 'horseshoe', installed a bezel to fill the gap left behind, cut new slots in the bridge saddles to better center the strings.
Just wait until you put on your Elixers and get to set the intonation! Hope that goes easy for you, as that one has you frequently need to loosen all the strings enough to pull out the bridge from under the strings so you can manipulate the screws, which can be getting a lot of pressure from the springs. You might even have to flip a saddle to get enough room to intonate. For instance, lets say you get your G and A strings intonated, but the A is way off, and you've run out of travel. Now you have to loosen all the strings until flappy, pull the bridge out, take out the screw and spring on the A saddle, flip it, reinstall, retune all the strings, continue to tweek intonation on the A until its there, and pray that the E string is easier. Ricks are great basses, and I love mine, but some things could be a lot easier.
 
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#11
Yeah I had to intonate my 2010 4003 when I got it! The bridge design is the biggest downfall on Ricks as far as I'm concerned, but they look so darn cool! Not great for muting with your hand either! I also had to contact Rick customer service for new saddles. Mine were from a bad lot from an outsourced company that made the post so high they didn't set on the bridge! Made for all kinds of bad noises! I cut the new saddles myself measuring the locations with some calipers on the old ones and scribing the new locations on the new saddles. Used a triangle jewelers file to cut the new slots, and it all went well thank God! I've setup a couple other Ricks for friends also, a 4003 and a guitar not sure which one though. Yeah its not my first rodeo with Rickenbacker thats for sure! I was truly surprised with the new one! Just had to file two slots a bit, 1/4 turn on the E side truss rod and drop the bridge a hair and it was perfect for me. I could have left it alone anyway and it would have been fine! Fortunatly I enjoy tinkering around with instruments, although as you stated the bridge can be a nightmare! Oh yeah I'm already on rickresource! I joined when I got my first 4003! Sad to say I had to sell that bass because of physical issues at the time. All healed now and extremely happy to be able to own one of these wonderful basses again!
 
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#12
Garret Graves said:
Congrats on your new bass 1stname (saw your other post)! The Joeysbassnotes sight is great, and I recommend you go and register your new bass on Rickresource too, good site to explore as well. Mine needed a lot of love out of the box- slotted the nut, as the strings were way too high, adjusted pickup heights and removed the treble 'horseshoe', installed a bezel to fill the gap left behind, cut new slots in the bridge saddles to better center the strings.
Just wait until you put on your Elixers and get to set the intonation! Hope that goes easy for you, as that one has you frequently need to loosen all the strings enough to pull out the bridge from under the strings so you can manipulate the screws, which can be getting a lot of pressure from the springs. You might even have to flip a saddle to get enough room to intonate. For instance, lets say you get your G and A strings intonated, but the A is way off, and you've run out of travel. Now you have to loosen all the strings until flappy, pull the bridge out, take out the screw and spring on the A saddle, flip it, reinstall, retune all the strings, continue to tweek intonation on the A until its there, and pray that the E string is easier. Ricks are great basses, and I love mine, but some things could be a lot easier.
Click to expand...

I need to try this with mine, as I was not able to get the A & E intonated.

I currently have mine with Cary Nordstrand getting the noise issues fixed (some rewiring and shielding…neither of which should be necessary.)

The other thing to watch for are the strap buttons. These are 1 piece units which are not designed like a wood screw which will "bite" and anchor into the wood, but more like a threaded bolt (I don't understand the logic in using a unit like this.) I had to replace the button with a proper strap lock screw/button on the upper horn within the first week.

Idiosynchrasies aside, I still like the bass very much.
 
Last edited:
#13
nixdad said:
I need to try this with mine, as I was not able to get the A & E intonated.

I currently have mine with Cary Nordstrand getting the noise issues fixed (some rewiring and shielding…neither of which should not be necessary.)

The other thing to watch for are the strap buttons. These are 1 piece units which are not designed like a wood screw which will "bite" and anchor into the wood, but more like a threaded bolt (I don't understand the logic in using a unit like this.) I had to replace the button with a proper strap lock screw/button on the upper horn within the first week.

Idiosynchrasies aside, I still like the bass very much.
Click to expand...
Yes, it is unfortunate, but that is the recommended proceedure to intonate if you run out of travel- flip the saddle! As to the strap buttons, they are sunk in that way so they won't unscrew during normal use. They are Schaller lock buttons. Not only do they NOT supply the strap end of the lock, they don't tell you that they are Schaller lock buttons, and for the safe use of them, you need to purchase the locking end for your strap. Instead you take your bass, go to put the strap on and see that they would slip out of the holes on the strap and crash to the floor. Then its up to you to explore on the web to find out what the buttons are, and you make another trip out to buy the stupid locks, instead of playing your new bass. One of the many pleasures that await the excited first time Ric owner who brings home his new Ric- discovering through time and effort what you need to buy to strap it on. If they don't supply they strap end, and they don't- they should inlude a bold typed note in the case candy- letting the new owner know what they are dealing with, and what they need to buy.
 
#14
Garret Graves said:
Yes, it is unfortunate, but that is the recommended proceedure to intonate if you run out of travel- flip the saddle! As to the strap buttons, they are sunk in that way so they won't unscrew during normal use. They are Schaller lock buttons. Not only do they NOT supply the strap end of the lock, they don't tell you that they are Schaller lock buttons, and for the safe use of them, you need to purchase the locking end for your strap. Instead you take your bass, go to put the strap on and see that they would slip out of the holes on the strap and crash to the floor. Then its up to you to explore on the web to find out what the buttons are, and you make another trip out to buy the stupid locks, instead of playing your new bass. One of the many pleasures that await the excited first time Ric owner who brings home his new Ric- discovering through time and effort what you need to buy to strap it on. If they don't supply they strap end, and they don't- they should inlude a bold typed note in the case candy- letting the new owner know what they are dealing with, and what they need to buy.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Luckily, I had an extra set up strap locks on hand so there was no extra trip necessary. It's simple for Rickenbacker - if you're not going to provide the other half of the strap lock, then install standard wide-flange buttons.

The stock button on the top horn pulled out most of the way during the very first gig with the locks in place (my son used the bass first, and he's very active on stage.) We didn't notice the near disaster until the next morning, when I discovered the bolt-like design of the button after removing it. Needless to say, this could have been disastrous.
 
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#15
nixdad said:
The stock button on the top horn pulled out most of the way during the very first gig with the locks in place (my son used the bass first, and he's very active on stage.) We didn't notice the near disaster until the next morning, when I discovered the bolt-like design of the button after removing it. Needless to say, this could have been disastrous.
Click to expand...

A couple of drops of Thread Locker will fix that. I put it on the strap (05904) posts on my 2 RIC's. Never had a post back out it's "locked" position since.

TD
 
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#17
Update. I tried out 2 4003s at my local store and was amazed by differences between them. They neck playability was completely different as was the sound between them. Such was the difference I would never buy one of these sight unseen as they vary in characteristics so much more than say Fenders. Saying that the neck is far better than the 4003 and the lack of binding makes it a much more comfortable play. I think I will be flipping very soon
 
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#18
The only time I've ever had to dress the strap bolt hole (and they've used the same style machine thread bolt for many years) was after taking it out and replacing it many times.
A small dab of white glue will work as well.

And I agree that they should supply the strap end of the lock system which is installed with a new bass or guitar.
It's silly to leave the customer to find their own solution.
I knew about that long before I bought my first new Rick, so converted all my basses to the Schaller system so I could use the same strap with all of them and now have extra strap ends, but to assume that the customer won't mind is not logical.
 

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