Yup, knobs up all the way for me too on my 4001v63. I have no trouble with the pu switch, but it's still pretty new.
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Rickenbacker
- Thread starter nanook
- Start date
john turner
You don't want to do that. Trust me.
i customized my 4001 to have a pickup fader knob instead of the 3 way switch - i found that my treble pickup wasn't quite as hot as my bass one, so i used the fader knob to select, and could bet a better balance between the two.
John Turner, do the bypass wiring procedure to your 4001 and you will find that your treble pick-up will be very hot!
You won't need a fader knob, or you'll be glad you installed it because you will have far more sound to blend.
Check it out.
Cheers
You won't need a fader knob, or you'll be glad you installed it because you will have far more sound to blend.
Check it out.
Cheers
Nope, never. I occassionally use only the bridge pickup, but for the most part I even leave the pickup selector in the middle because -IMHO- it gives the best basic tone on which to build (or not).
Actually, the volume control for the neck pickup on my 4003 is terrible. Even the slightest turn of the nob makes my bass sound like only the bridge pickup is on. It's been like that since I got it new many years ago, but since I really love the sound with both pickups on, I never cared enough to have it looked at. And since, I'm never going to sell it, I guess that's all that matters.
One thing I have found is that my stereo out is a bit weird.
I don't have the Ric-o-Sound box, but I've used a Y-cable and I've found that when I push the jack all the way in, I only get sound from the bridge pickup. If I pull it part-way out (which obviously would never work on stage) I do get the full stereo effect. I thought this was just a defect in my bass, until a friend told me that happened with his Ric, too.
Are we both doing something wrong; do we both have defective basses; or is this something done on purpose to Ric's to ensure that the stereo out only works with the Ric-O-Sound box?
Hi Saint,
No, it should work. But make sure your Y cable is a Stereo cable (3 conductor cable - actually 2 conductors plus a ground shield) and that one plug is a stereo plug, not just a mono Y cable. One end (The Ric end) should be a Stereo Plug (with a Tip and Ring like a headphone cable) which then goes to TWO MONO plugs (which are like regular guitar cables). It sounds a bit like you might actually be using a mono Y cable or a mono plug. That would explain why you only get one pickup sounding when you plug all the way in. What happens is that the plug's "Tip" would be making contact while the "ring" would be touching the ground conductor. What you hear when only putting the plug in part way then would not be stereo, it may be that the plugs "Tip" would be making contact with both leads of the Ric's jack, so you'd hear both pickups, but they'd be mixed together, not discrete.
Used correctly, you should ONLY hear one pickup from one of the mono plugs, the other PU from the other, which you'd plug into two different amps, or two different mixer inputs etc.
I've used Stereo Y cords for years and it works fine. They aren't very common, but the place to get one would be at the PA/mixing board area of your music store. Ask for a cable that is used for the channel Insert function of most good mixers. This gives you the stereo plug to two mono plugs that you need.
Good luck, and reply back here or email me if you have further problems.
No, it should work. But make sure your Y cable is a Stereo cable (3 conductor cable - actually 2 conductors plus a ground shield) and that one plug is a stereo plug, not just a mono Y cable. One end (The Ric end) should be a Stereo Plug (with a Tip and Ring like a headphone cable) which then goes to TWO MONO plugs (which are like regular guitar cables). It sounds a bit like you might actually be using a mono Y cable or a mono plug. That would explain why you only get one pickup sounding when you plug all the way in. What happens is that the plug's "Tip" would be making contact while the "ring" would be touching the ground conductor. What you hear when only putting the plug in part way then would not be stereo, it may be that the plugs "Tip" would be making contact with both leads of the Ric's jack, so you'd hear both pickups, but they'd be mixed together, not discrete.
Used correctly, you should ONLY hear one pickup from one of the mono plugs, the other PU from the other, which you'd plug into two different amps, or two different mixer inputs etc.
I've used Stereo Y cords for years and it works fine. They aren't very common, but the place to get one would be at the PA/mixing board area of your music store. Ask for a cable that is used for the channel Insert function of most good mixers. This gives you the stereo plug to two mono plugs that you need.
Good luck, and reply back here or email me if you have further problems.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse about the Ric-o-Sound, but I recently looked back at my copy of the Ric owner's manual that I downloaded from the web. It says stereo y cables won't work and may produce buzzing because they aren't grounded right or something. Now I know better 
Yeah, I think they said that so you'd buy one of their clunky kits for $25. If your cable is grounded properly you'll have no problems.
Holy crap has this thread grown since I saw it last! Let's talk some more about Ricks!
Lot's to mention. My Rickenbacker is a black, or I should say Jetglow, '79 4001. The original white pickguard was smashed into pieces when the bass fell over one day (I know it hurts to think about it. It was my stupid guitarist. I made the mistake of leaving it at his house. On my way with him to his house to go jam, "Uh...Brian. Did I mention your bass? Uh...") but all is well now with its custom black-white-black pickguard in its place. So it's all black on the body except for the white body binding and the thin white outline of the pickguard. It looks awesome. I still haven't replaced the original white nameplate though. It would look better with a black one, but a new one wouldn't say "Model 4001 - Made in USA" on it!
First regarding the Rick-O-Sound stereo output. I built myself a great cable for it using two mono cables and a big fat stereo jack. One cable was strait and the other was coiled so I fed the strait one through the center of the coiled one and taped them together every couple feet. Both cables fit into the stereo jack and the other end terminated in two mono 1/4" jacks. Sweet.
The original bridge pickup on mine eventually developed a broken winding in it somewhere and we couldn't fix it without rewinding the pickup. So... I took that opportunity to have a pair of Bartolini Rick replacement pickups installed. World Of Difference! It still sounds like a Rick, only a lot nicer. The black Barts look really cool in my black bass too. I'd definitely recomend them.
Regarding the cap-bypass mod, I'm really not sure if that was done along with the pickup change or not. I don't remember. So I'm going to have to open it up and check it out. If that cap is still in there, out it comes!
Some were saying they always had the tone controls decked. I always found that I got a better tone with both controls backed off some. I have mine set with the bass tone set back about 4 numbers and the treble tone about two. Warmer sound.
I've always used roundwound strings on my Rick. Rotosounds were the only strings on it ever until just recently when I started using DRs. But they have taken their toll on the frets big time. The frets on my Rick are so badly beaten, bruised, and just plain worn out, it sucks. The intonation is flawed as a result, which is why I don't use it as much anymore. I know I can and should get a refret job done, but that is major surgery for a Rick with its bound neck and laquered fretboard. So I've been hesitant to get that done. I know I guy who did the job on another Rick. I watched its progress. It took a very long time putting coat after coat of clear on the fretboard to get it back to original shape.
I had often considered replacing the bridge and doing a Geddy Lee job on it, but could never bring myself to hack it like that. The rubber mute on mine is so rotted out it's nearly useless now. I'm sure it could sound better with a new bridge but then it just wouldn't be the same bass anymore.
Speaking of that mute, did you know that Bartolini makes a special stacked humbucker pickup that can be installed in place of the string mute!? That means you'll have a third pickup that can be used to dial in just the right amount of high-end twang. Being that close to the bridge it's got to sound wicked. I've thought about getting that installed on mine.
The next step in the evolution of my Rick is to install a Bartolini active preamp. The output of my Rick, even with the new Bart pickups, is still pretty low. With the preamp in it, I could get its output up high enough to compete with my Zon. At the same time I'd probably install a completely new wiring harness with new pots and jacks. I've heard that makes a big difference for old Ricks.
That Rickenbacker has been with me for 15 years. It'll be mine for life!
Brian
P.S. Can you tell I like talking about my Rickenbacker?
Lot's to mention. My Rickenbacker is a black, or I should say Jetglow, '79 4001. The original white pickguard was smashed into pieces when the bass fell over one day (I know it hurts to think about it. It was my stupid guitarist. I made the mistake of leaving it at his house. On my way with him to his house to go jam, "Uh...Brian. Did I mention your bass? Uh...") but all is well now with its custom black-white-black pickguard in its place. So it's all black on the body except for the white body binding and the thin white outline of the pickguard. It looks awesome. I still haven't replaced the original white nameplate though. It would look better with a black one, but a new one wouldn't say "Model 4001 - Made in USA" on it!
First regarding the Rick-O-Sound stereo output. I built myself a great cable for it using two mono cables and a big fat stereo jack. One cable was strait and the other was coiled so I fed the strait one through the center of the coiled one and taped them together every couple feet. Both cables fit into the stereo jack and the other end terminated in two mono 1/4" jacks. Sweet.
The original bridge pickup on mine eventually developed a broken winding in it somewhere and we couldn't fix it without rewinding the pickup. So... I took that opportunity to have a pair of Bartolini Rick replacement pickups installed. World Of Difference! It still sounds like a Rick, only a lot nicer. The black Barts look really cool in my black bass too. I'd definitely recomend them.
Regarding the cap-bypass mod, I'm really not sure if that was done along with the pickup change or not. I don't remember. So I'm going to have to open it up and check it out. If that cap is still in there, out it comes!
Some were saying they always had the tone controls decked. I always found that I got a better tone with both controls backed off some. I have mine set with the bass tone set back about 4 numbers and the treble tone about two. Warmer sound.
I've always used roundwound strings on my Rick. Rotosounds were the only strings on it ever until just recently when I started using DRs. But they have taken their toll on the frets big time. The frets on my Rick are so badly beaten, bruised, and just plain worn out, it sucks. The intonation is flawed as a result, which is why I don't use it as much anymore. I know I can and should get a refret job done, but that is major surgery for a Rick with its bound neck and laquered fretboard. So I've been hesitant to get that done. I know I guy who did the job on another Rick. I watched its progress. It took a very long time putting coat after coat of clear on the fretboard to get it back to original shape.
I had often considered replacing the bridge and doing a Geddy Lee job on it, but could never bring myself to hack it like that. The rubber mute on mine is so rotted out it's nearly useless now. I'm sure it could sound better with a new bridge but then it just wouldn't be the same bass anymore.
Speaking of that mute, did you know that Bartolini makes a special stacked humbucker pickup that can be installed in place of the string mute!? That means you'll have a third pickup that can be used to dial in just the right amount of high-end twang. Being that close to the bridge it's got to sound wicked. I've thought about getting that installed on mine.
The next step in the evolution of my Rick is to install a Bartolini active preamp. The output of my Rick, even with the new Bart pickups, is still pretty low. With the preamp in it, I could get its output up high enough to compete with my Zon. At the same time I'd probably install a completely new wiring harness with new pots and jacks. I've heard that makes a big difference for old Ricks.
That Rickenbacker has been with me for 15 years. It'll be mine for life!
Brian
P.S. Can you tell I like talking about my Rickenbacker?
Sounds like you love your Rick. Me too. Having played for many years on lesser axes, I can testify that the Rickenbacker is the absolute best production bass that has ever been built.
NOTHING SOUNDS AS SWEET AS A RICK!
I was thinking about being buried with mine but maybe it would be better to pass it on to some good bass player so it can live on.
NOTHING SOUNDS AS SWEET AS A RICK!
I was thinking about being buried with mine but maybe it would be better to pass it on to some good bass player so it can live on.
To Brian Gordon - If you're going to perform the "bypass surgery" on your bass, then please do not remove the 0.47 capacitor that you'll be bypassing. Simply wire around it. This way if you ever want to put the bass back to its original condition you can easily do so by simply removing the bypass wire. You will notice a huge improvement in the output of the treble pick-up once the bypass is complete.
I've had a 4001 in my arsenal for over 30 yrs now and have tried just about every make of strings out there. I will tell you that for the past 15 yrs or so i've been using Dean Markley Blue Steel med-light gauge strings. They're very consistent strings that play, feel and sound great on Rickenbacker's. I recently bought a new 4003/S5 string. Once i've worn out the factory strings on it i'll put a set of Blue Steel's on it as well, which should be interesting.
With regards to your note about the Bartillini p/u for the mute position on a 4001/4003, this is nothing new. I installed this p/u into one of my 4001's back in the late 70's. It was an interesting experiment, but I wasn't overly impressed with the results so I removed it after a couple of years. Do yourself a favour and pass on it. I liked the idea and concept of it, but it did little to alter or improve the sound of the bass and was not worth the cost involved.
Good luck with your bass,
Cheers
I've had a 4001 in my arsenal for over 30 yrs now and have tried just about every make of strings out there. I will tell you that for the past 15 yrs or so i've been using Dean Markley Blue Steel med-light gauge strings. They're very consistent strings that play, feel and sound great on Rickenbacker's. I recently bought a new 4003/S5 string. Once i've worn out the factory strings on it i'll put a set of Blue Steel's on it as well, which should be interesting.
With regards to your note about the Bartillini p/u for the mute position on a 4001/4003, this is nothing new. I installed this p/u into one of my 4001's back in the late 70's. It was an interesting experiment, but I wasn't overly impressed with the results so I removed it after a couple of years. Do yourself a favour and pass on it. I liked the idea and concept of it, but it did little to alter or improve the sound of the bass and was not worth the cost involved.
Good luck with your bass,
Cheers
I have long since removed the pickup cover on my 4003, because the strings kept hitting it, and also it was hard playing with fingers behind it and then moving my hand to slap in front of it. I'm replacing it and my ugly white pickguards with a shiny piece of stainless steel which pretty-well matches the chrome bridge. This will give me more room under the strings - the action is already pretty high. A good time also to put in a switch for that capacitor.
Anyway, I noticed the bridge pup was earthed(?) to the cover. When I fix my new metal pick guard both pups will be touching it - is this bad, or desirable, or indifferent? I know nothing about electronics.
Hope someone can help.
Yay, this thread is now easier to get to! How about a dedicated Rickenbacker one that never moves and is always there when you need it?
Anyway, I noticed the bridge pup was earthed(?) to the cover. When I fix my new metal pick guard both pups will be touching it - is this bad, or desirable, or indifferent? I know nothing about electronics.
Hope someone can help.
Yay, this thread is now easier to get to! How about a dedicated Rickenbacker one that never moves and is always there when you need it?
First: In some difficult playing situations (loads of mid heavy humbucker equipped guitars), I back off my neck pickup a little on my Rick. It opens up the sound and gives a more cutting midrange.
Second: I have owned three 70s Rick 4001:s and tried many others out. I found it hard to get one that didn´t get buried under the guitars and didn´t sound weak compared to my P-bass. The "solution" was the Rick 4001 Chris Squire bass. Great thick but twangy tone, high output and wonderful look. The best Rick I ever played. If you find one: buy it. Brutal rock sound!
Second: I have owned three 70s Rick 4001:s and tried many others out. I found it hard to get one that didn´t get buried under the guitars and didn´t sound weak compared to my P-bass. The "solution" was the Rick 4001 Chris Squire bass. Great thick but twangy tone, high output and wonderful look. The best Rick I ever played. If you find one: buy it. Brutal rock sound!
Thanks for the comments on the extra pickup. I'd never heard from anyone who had tried it.
With regard to the cap bypass. I have heard of other ways to do it so that you can have both sounds if you want. If you're worried about losing the original sound, you could install a small toggle switch to switch the cap in or out. I also heard of it done with a push-pull pot for the treble volume so with the pot pushed in you'd have the bypassed sound and you could pull the pot for the sound with the cap in line, or vice versa. The switch method is cheaper, but you'd need to drill a hole into the pickguard for it and there's really not a convenient spot to put it.
With regard to the cap bypass. I have heard of other ways to do it so that you can have both sounds if you want. If you're worried about losing the original sound, you could install a small toggle switch to switch the cap in or out. I also heard of it done with a push-pull pot for the treble volume so with the pot pushed in you'd have the bypassed sound and you could pull the pot for the sound with the cap in line, or vice versa. The switch method is cheaper, but you'd need to drill a hole into the pickguard for it and there's really not a convenient spot to put it.
So there are 2 x 0.047 caps for the tone and 1 x 0.0047 cap for the bridge pup vol, and the latter comes out? Its (visually) smaller than the other two.
There are three capacitors in a 4001. They are identified as follows, C1 and C2 are .047 , C3 is .0047 It is the .0047 C3 capacitor that you want to bypass. If you have any doubts about which is which then go to the rickenbacker.com site, click on the service button then click on the schematics button and finally the guitar schematics button.
You will see all of Rickenbacker's guitars and basses highlighted. Click on the 4001 highlight toward the bottom of the page and the schematic will open up for you. You will clearly see the capacitor identified as "C3" with a resistance of .0047. This is the one you want to bypass. You can remove it if you feel you must, but I would recommend that you leave it in place and simply wire (bypass) around it.
Cheers
You will see all of Rickenbacker's guitars and basses highlighted. Click on the 4001 highlight toward the bottom of the page and the schematic will open up for you. You will clearly see the capacitor identified as "C3" with a resistance of .0047. This is the one you want to bypass. You can remove it if you feel you must, but I would recommend that you leave it in place and simply wire (bypass) around it.
Cheers
I've been using my Zon almost exclusively for recordings so far. The Rick sounds really nice with the Barts in it and the tone is great, but it doesn't quite compare to the sound I get from my Zon. That's why I want to get a Bartolini preamp to install in the Rick. Once I get that done I'll probably use it more often. The other issue is that most of the music calls for the use of a 5-string. There's only a few of the songs I can get away with using a 4-string on. And the third problem is the fret wear on my Rick is pretty bad which has an effect on intonation. I'll be recording a demo for a label this weekend, and I'll use the Zon on it. I will get my Rick back in shape soon though. It's too cool to be neglected. My first task though is to get a second 5-string.
I am really glad to see that my little question has spurned a ton of interest in doing the capacitor bypass surgery. I have yet to do it myself, but will complete the mod within the next week or so. Thanks to bassman for supplying the original process for the mod... wish me luck.
Jason this is exacly what I did exept that I took the cap right out, Just putting the jumper on didn't work for som reason but once I took the cap off it worked great!!
Thanks, Funkster!
I saw in your post that you did something different... I just wanted to make certain before I try it. I guess i will get me some wire tonight and have at it... thanks.
I will post my progress later.
I saw in your post that you did something different... I just wanted to make certain before I try it. I guess i will get me some wire tonight and have at it... thanks.
I will post my progress later.
