Roscoe Beck Forum?

[jasonmatthews]

Alright after 3 hours of going back and forth from the repair shop and hardware stores, i found the correct intonation screws here locally in San Diego. They dont have them in black like the originals so i bought a bunch in case i decide to replace them all. I got mine a little long, they needed to be cut off, but any tech worth a snot should be able to handle it. Literally took my guy 5-6 seconds maybe? Anyway, here is the correct size for anyone who may need to replace the intonation screw in the future.

M3 x 50mm with .50 pitch - round top, phillips style. Cost me $1.30 for 10 of them.

They had them in 45mm, 40mm, 35mm, and 30mm as well. 25mm IS TOO SHORT!!! (i found that out the hard way). So if you are unable to have them cut down, one of these may be the correct length.

Heh. Funny to see this post (should've checked earlier!). I've been recently re-visiting my RBV (did a fret-level, setup, yadayada) and noticed two of the intonation screws were stripped. I guess the guy who had it before me probably didn't understand the locking mechanism and stripped them (I haven't played it in almost a decade). Anyway, millions of calls and google searches later, and finding parts for this bridge is impossible; even Gotoh no longer has or makes the parts.

The screws are, as you said, M3. Length is 30mm. Most important measurement is head diameter, which is 5mm. This is critical because the hole for the E&A screws is 12mm, so anything bigger than 5mm head diameter won't fit.

I finally managed to find proper screws in China (on eBay). They'll be chrome instead of black, but I'll take it!

UPDATE
Screws finally arrived. Nearly perfect match. Paid $2.39 shipped for 20 of them.
eBay Link for anybody who finds or needs this info in the future.

RBV Intonation Screw (head)

• jasonmatthews
• Aug 25, 2016
• screw

RBV Intonation Screw (length)

• jasonmatthews
• Aug 25, 2016
• screw

 

[52hurtz]

Good price on an RBIV if anyone's looking. Make sure to ask about the plexiglass ramp as it's not in the photo.

Invalid Link Removed

 

[greenbass5]

Did the necks on the RBV's change from year to year? I am (tentatively) beginning a search for one. Thanks.

 

[Alivefor5]

The four factory RB5's that I own (1996 to 2001) have the same neck dimensions. I can't speak for 2002 to 2006.

 

[greenbass5]

thanks. did the Bridges ever change?

The four factory RB5's that I own (1996 to 2001) are the same. I can't speak for 2002 to 2006.

 

[Alivefor5]

thanks. did the Bridges ever change?

No. And as I understand it, when Gotoh discontinued that bridge and Bill Lawrence quit making the pickups, the RB5 was dead in the water.

 

[jasonmatthews]

No. And as I understand it, when Gotoh discontinued that bridge and Bill Lawrence quit making the pickups, the RB5 was dead in the water.

Yep. You're in bad shape if you need any parts for that Gotoh 206 bridge. Lots of folks who inherit RBVs with busted bridges are just swapping them out nowadays.

They changed the bridge on the 4-string version.

 

[greenbass5]

Thanks guys. good info

 

[cazclocker]

Yep. You're in bad shape if you need any parts for that Gotoh 206 bridge. Lots of folks who inherit RBVs with busted bridges are just swapping them out nowadays.

They changed the bridge on the 4-string version.

Just out of curiosity, what part of the RBV bridges broke, or came apart? I had one some time ago, which I stupidly sold, and I never had a moment's trouble with the bridge. On the other hand, I seem to recall the bridge was a Wilkerson, not a Gotoh. But I could be wrong. Anyway, I remember it was a weird, sort of overly-complicated bridge design.

Here's the bridge on mine - sure wish I had it back....

 

[Iridescentone]

Yep. You're in bad shape if you need any parts for that Gotoh 206 bridge. Lots of folks who inherit RBVs with busted bridges are just swapping them out nowadays.

They changed the bridge on the 4-string version.

Lots of folks inherit RBV's with busted bridges?

I didn't know that was a thing. What is causing this to happen?

 

[jasonmatthews]

Just out of curiosity, what part of the RBV bridges broke, or came apart? I had one some time ago, which I stupidly sold, and I never had a moment's trouble with the bridge. On the other hand, I seem to recall the bridge was a Wilkerson, not a Gotoh. But I could be wrong. Anyway, I remember it was a weird, sort of overly-complicated bridge design.

Definitely a Gotoh 206 there.

My problem was two stripped intonation screwheads. Mine sat in a case for about a decade because it needed a fret-level and I just never had it done. Finally when I decided to do it and was setting the thing up I noticed the screws (I don't remember ever adjusting intonation on it when I was kid, so never noticed). Clearly the guy who had it before me didn't understand the locking mechanism on the saddles and stripped the screw heads. Frankly, I'm lucky he just stripped the heads. Others have had issues where they try to adjust intonation without unlocking the saddle and the saddle literally snaps; that problem is much worse.

It's not that the bridge is bad... quite the opposite really. It's just really complex and if you make a mistake it can be bad news.

In this graphic, the red arrow shows where the saddle can snap if you try to adjust the intonation without unlocking the saddle (saddle lock is #9). What happens is the intonation screw (#7) goes into a little ferrule (#8) and the ferrule is what pulls/pushes the saddle. If the saddle is locked and you try to pull, the ferrule pulls on the metal and... snap.

Gotoh doesn't make this bridge anymore or carry the parts for it, and Fender won't have anything to do with it because they didn't make it. The worst thing would be breaking the saddle. Next worst is losing one of the ferrules or screws (#8, #7, #6, #5). #13 is just a little plastic washer; not the end of the world if you lose that part. Ferrule #8 is especially critical because it's got a little flat edge that sits against the bridge, so it'd be really difficult to reproduce and nearly impossible to find. Ferrule #6 is similarly shaped.

The search for just the intonation screws was tedious because, although it's a standard metric screw (m3, 30mm), almost every m3x30mm screw has a 6mm head, which doesn't work. Finally found them in China (see my post above).

Lots of folks inherit RBV's with busted bridges?

I didn't know that was a thing. What is causing this to happen?

I wouldn't say lots of folks inherit RBVs with busted bridges, but lots of folks *who* inherit them with busted bridges just replace them. Small subset, I'm sure. I've seen several listings for them where people mention the bridge is broken somewhere. They work fine because the saddle locks in place; even if it's broken, you can just move it with your fingers and lock it in place.


All that aside... the bass is still amazing and incredible and I love mine.

 

[ahc]

So this begs the question: What replacement bridges work/fit?

 

[cazclocker]

Definitely a Gotoh 206 there.

My problem was two stripped intonation screwheads. Mine sat in a case for about a decade because it needed a fret-level and I just never had it done. Finally when I decided to do it and was setting the thing up I noticed the screws (I don't remember ever adjusting intonation on it when I was kid, so never noticed). Clearly the guy who had it before me didn't understand the locking mechanism on the saddles and stripped the screw heads. Frankly, I'm lucky he just stripped the heads. Others have had issues where they try to adjust intonation without unlocking the saddle and the saddle literally snaps; that problem is much worse.

It's not that the bridge is bad... quite the opposite really. It's just really complex and if you make a mistake it can be bad news.

In this graphic, the red arrow shows where the saddle can snap if you try to adjust the intonation without unlocking the saddle (saddle lock is #9). What happens is the intonation screw (#7) goes into a little ferrule (#8) and the ferrule is what pulls/pushes the saddle. If the saddle is locked and you try to pull, the ferrule pulls on the metal and... snap.

Gotoh doesn't make this bridge anymore or carry the parts for it, and Fender won't have anything to do with it because they didn't make it. The worst thing would be breaking the saddle. Next worst is losing one of the ferrules or screws (#8, #7, #6, #5). #13 is just a little plastic washer; not the end of the world if you lose that part. Ferrule #8 is especially critical because it's got a little flat edge that sits against the bridge, so it'd be really difficult to reproduce and nearly impossible to find. Ferrule #6 is similarly shaped.

The search for just the intonation screws was tedious because, although it's a standard metric screw (m3, 30mm), almost every m3x30mm screw has a 6mm head, which doesn't work. Finally found them in China (see my post above).



I wouldn't say lots of folks inherit RBVs with busted bridges, but lots of folks *who* inherit them with busted bridges just replace them. Small subset, I'm sure. I've seen several listings for them where people mention the bridge is broken somewhere. They work fine because the saddle locks in place; even if it's broken, you can just move it with your fingers and lock it in place.


All that aside... the bass is still amazing and incredible and I love mine.

Jason - thanks for the explanation. Yikes - that exploded diagram brings back skull-busting nightmares of realizing just how stupidly complicated that bridge was. How did I get the idea it was made by Wilkerson? Who knows. Anyway, the bridge on mine remained in good shape because luckily, I quickly realized how you shouldn't turn the intonation screws with out unlocking the locking screws. Man, who was responsible for choosing that stupid bridge on such a great bass? Did Roscoe Beck himself see it and say to himself "yeah, THAT'S the bridge I want on my signature bass"???

 

[cazclocker]

So this begs the question: What replacement bridges work/fit?

EXCELLENT question. I'm going to stay tuned, in case I ever get another RBV.

 

[BB3000S]

Anyone know if there was a year when Fender stopped doing the asymmetrical shape on the RBV necks? I've had two RBV's over the years, and the first one (an early model) had the asymmetrical neck whereas the other one did not. Both necks were sweet, but the asymmetrical one was sublime.

Looking to pick one up again if the right opportunity arises, this time for keeps. Fantastic basses!

Apologies if this has been covered earlier in this mega thread, still working my way through...

 

[pfschim]

hey RB Forum/thread members, I've been thinking hard about getting my hands on an RB4 (not a 5er guy at all).
I got to play one yesterday at a shop and it was just a great bass physically. Felt great in my hands and did "speak" to me, unlike the Fender American Deluxe Jazz I tried out right next to it.

I got a good leisurely chance to work with it thru an amp I am very familiar with (Mesa Walkabout), so it was a good hands-on/ears-on test.
I got some great bridge p/u tones, workable neck and blended tones, but I'd have to admit that the series/parallel switches were a bit of a mystery. Nothing I could not work out with a little time though, just not completely clear right off the bat.

So, talk to me about the RB4. I am a Jazz player thru and thru, current steady player is a Lull M4V. I don't NEED another bass really, but the Roscoe Beck has long interested me. The price is for a supposed "B stock" model, 3TB with rosewood board, with a OHSC included for $2k. This seems a bit high to me, but I am not really sure. I really prefer Rosewood boards over Maple so thats a consideration. I know there have been a few for sale here on TB recently, but they have been Maple board models.

Any thoughts ... encouraging or otherwise ?

thanks

 

[Chuck M]

The switches are simple to understand. Toward the bridge is series humbucking, center is single coil and toward the neck is parallel humbucking.

I bought my RB V years ago and do not remember what I paid for it. My RB IV came from an Ebay auction and I got it for about $1050. The RB IV has some wear and dings on the back of the body but the neck is pristine.

Haight Ashbury Music has had that RB IV for a long time. Don't know why it has not sold but I would think they would have marked it down to move it by now.

 

[pfschim]

The switches are simple to understand. Toward the bridge is series humbucking, center is single coil and toward the neck is parallel humbucking.

I bought my RB V years ago and do not remember what I paid for it. My RB IV came from an Ebay auction and I got it for about $1050. The RB IV has some wear and dings on the back of the body but the neck is pristine.

Haight Ashbury Music has had that RB IV for a long time. Don't know why it has not sold but I would think they would have marked it down to move it by now.

you nailed it
I'm not sure why it would have hung around so long either. It plays/feels great, is in very good shape, no major or obvious dings. It does have a fade spot on the pickguard where the original Fender American Flag sticker went on the protective plastic and I would guess its a UV "burn in" mark from when the sticker did not come off for a long time, but that is just cosmetic. It could be the price they have on it .. although they encouraged me to make an offer. I guess I have nothing to lose by offering $1,500 for it and seeing how they react. I see them used, in "excellent" shape for $1,200-1,700, but most of the ones I see are Maple boards, so this one with the Rosewood board is attractive to me. OTOH, there is no way I would drop $2k on it.

As far as the switches go, I agree that it would not take long to figure out, and I was able to get some great tones out of it right away .. it's more the subtleties of the various possible combinations, which with the 3x3x3 choices could be a bunch. Isn't there also a pull up option on the tone knob ? There were a few switch combo's that reminded me of a Music Man tone, sort of a nasally thing, which is not in my tone sweetspot.

I'm also on the hunt for a used Mike Lull PJ4, or maybe even a new one, to go along with my M4V (which I love playing), so this is really a soft search .. but still interesting.

thanks for the reply.
gotta think about it

 

[jasonmatthews]

That pull on the tone knob applies a resistor across the neck pickup to reduce the output a bit (when both pickups are selected), which gives you that jazz bass growl. Really cool feature.

There are tons of combinations. Both pickups on full in single coil mode is a classic 60s j-bass tone, bridge pickup soloed in series is one of my favorite tones ever, I also like neck pickup in series w/ bridge in parallel with the tone knob pulled up... really great "rock" sound.

$1500 would be the absolute top in my opinion for an instrument in fantastic shape. The 5-strings are more in demand (I think), and those usually go for ~$1300. Those were pao ferro boards, too. A lake placid blue IV recently sold on eBay for $1200 with a rosewood board.

 

[pfschim]

That pull on the tone knob applies a resister across the neck pickup to reduce the output a bit (when both pickups are selected), which gives you that jazz bass growl. Really cool feature.

There are tons of combinations. Both pickups on full in single coil mode is a classic 60s j-bass tone, bridge pickup soloed in series is one of my favorite tones ever, I also like neck pickup in series w/ bridge in parallel with the tone knob pulled up... really great "rock" sound.

$1500 would be the absolute top in my opinion for an instrument in fantastic shape. The 5-strings are more in demand (I think), and those usually go for ~$1300. Those were pao ferro boards, too. A lake placid blue IV recently sold on eBay for $1200 with a rosewood board.

cool, thanks.
I think the shop is hanging on the idea that the bass is "new"/B stock, not used. Still would not offer more than $1,500 for it.
we'll see