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Roscoe Club

Well, the 35" was a decision taken for a lot of reasons, the biggest being that a 34" just doesn't get a "Roscoe B", and we insist on that. The addition of a 34" option is unlikely, as not only is it not going to have the same quality of tone, but there is more to the production side of it than you would think.

Body depth is 1.5", so you got 1 for 2. If you were an MLB batter, you'd be in the Hall Of Fame with that .500 average! ;)
Thanks for the response, Gard. IIRC you stated that changing the scale from 35" to 34" required changes to the neck/neck heel/neck pocket/body size, etc...
I was only curious if the addition of the CNC would make this any less labor intensive. I try not to pretend to know everything and I don't believe that a CNC just spits out finished bodies as I know more goes into it than that. I hope I didn't come across as being negative in any way.


Regarding body depth, that's great to hear and the details of these new Classics is very appealing. Another point of inquiry is the nut width. Is the 4-string 1.5" or the slightly wider width you use on your 4-stringers?
 
FWIW, when I owned this beauty
5797-FRONT-700.jpg

It did have a killer B. For me, I tend to prefer the feel/tone/timbre of a 34" scale.
 
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No, it is a bit "beefier" than our other 5's, and wider (it's a 19mm spacing at the bridge), it has a 9.5" radius, not a 16". It does use the same fretwire (Dunlop 6150). It feels different, for certain - to my hand, similar to a Roscoe Beck 5 - but that's part of what we were aiming at.
What's the width at the nut on the 5 string passive bass?
 
Regarding body depth, that's great to hear and the details of these new Classics is very appealing. Another point of inquiry is the nut width. Is the 4-string 1.5" or the slightly wider width you use on your 4-stringers?

I asked this also, Gard said 1.5" on the 4 string and if they make a P it will have the correct width for a P.
 
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:)OK guys help me decide here. I'm about to get a new one started. Headless Standard Plus 5. My original plan was a Century.. I have two of 'em and it's my favorite Roscoe body shape. But on a headless bass, I think the LG looks the coolest by far. I mean, look at this:

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So now I'm torn. Also because I know of a super-cool piece of koa that's only big enough for an LG top. Of course, I'm still gonna go to Greensboro to look through the woodpile!
It's gonna be an alder body and a pau ferro board with the standard Bart CBs/NTMB and black hardware.
So whaddya think.. Century with reverse-slant pickups or LG with forward slant? Or SKB? :)
 
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It's gonna be an alder body and a pau ferro board with the standard Bart CBs/NTMB and black hardware.
So whaddya think.. Century with reverse-slant pickups or LG with forward slant? Or SKB? :)
I weighed in on this before:
Hey Dave. I will say that as a Century guy through and through (I've owned LGs and SKBs and though I liked them the ergonomics of the Century just work for me) the Century HL works really well both visually and ergonomically.
i001-1-jpg.jpg


Obviously I'm a fan of the Century with reverse-slant option :)

The LG looks good as you point out, but the Century certainly works with the headless option as well, so pick the one you enjoy most. For me consistency between the feel of multiple Century bodies is of value.
 
Thanks for the response, Gard. IIRC you stated that changing the scale from 35" to 34" required changes to the neck/neck heel/neck pocket/body size, etc...
I was only curious if the addition of the CNC would make this any less labor intensive. I try not to pretend to know everything and I don't believe that a CNC just spits out finished bodies as I know more goes into it than that. I hope I didn't come across as being negative in any way.


Regarding body depth, that's great to hear and the details of these new Classics is very appealing. Another point of inquiry is the nut width. Is the 4-string 1.5" or the slightly wider width you use on your 4-stringers?

Well, there is a bit more than just pushing button "a" instead of button "b" - all of the fixturing has to be redone for both body and neck, as well as entirely new programming. It is a significant investment in time and resource to do this, if there is a LOT of demand, I will certainly bring it up in production meetings, but unless there is a big push for that as an option, it is not likely in the near future - certainly not saying "never", just having to look at it in a realistic manner from a cost/benefit perspective.

tsl - I don't have any finished 5's in the shop right now (they're at the NAMM show!), but based on what is in production, about 1.9" on a 5 string Classic or Classic Custom
 
Dave -

Well, here's your answer, from my perspective, on the whole Century versus LG debate:

If I were to build one, it would be a Century Standard Plus with reverse slant and black hardware. Bart/Bart.
Headless or not, the Century puts the upper horn strap button in the right spot.

You already have the Century body on 2, the LG will feel different when you play it.

...my $0.02 worth, at least. :)

Jeff's post just ices the cake - that bass still haunts my dreams some nights.

Now, just to be an evil bastard, what about this one:

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:whistle:
 
Well, there is a bit more than just pushing button "a" instead of button "b" - all of the fixturing has to be redone for both body and neck, as well as entirely new programming. It is a significant investment in time and resource to do this, if there is a LOT of demand, I will certainly bring it up in production meetings, but unless there is a big push for that as an option, it is not likely in the near future - certainly not saying "never", just having to look at it in a realistic manner from a cost/benefit perspective.

tsl - I don't have any finished 5's in the shop right now (they're at the NAMM show!), but based on what is in production, about 1.9" on a 5 string Classic or Classic Custom
Any chances of a 24 fret option on the Classics?
 
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I think we're going to leave that for the Standard/Standard Plus model, it's properly designed to be 24 frets. Maybe we will add a pickguard option to allow it to look a bit more "traditional/vintage"? :) Comments?

I would never put a pickguard on and cover my Koa or quilt maple tops. I suppose if it were just a Standard (no fancy top) a pick guard would be an OK option.
 
Don't know if you guys saw this, but I asked Gard about the colors that are available on the Classics and here's what he said:

Available colors: Tobacco Sunburst,
Transparent Orange, Aztec Gold, Surf Green, Seafoam Green, Cadillac Green,
Fiesta Red, Dakota Red, Sonic Blue, Lake Placid Blue, Daphne Blue, Olympic White, Black, and
Natural (must be ash, which is a $100 option)

I'm a Transparent Orange type of guy myself, but I'm thinking for a Classic the Sonic Blue w/maple would be killer. Maybe even distressed!
 
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