Gary, connecting the batteries in series is the normal manner to obtain 18VDC. All 18VDC preamps are wired in that manner. If they were wired in parallel then it would generate 9VDC with additional current loading capabilities.
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Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
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Gary, connecting the batteries in series is the normal manner to obtain 18VDC. All 18VDC preamps are wired in that manner. If they were wired in parallel then it would generate 9VDC with additional current loading capabilities.
Thanks for the diagram, Joe. I guess I don't look under the hood that often. The basses sure sound great now with fresh batteries!
I write the date of battery change on a piece of painter's masking tape (Green Frog : ), affixing it to the exterior plastic electronics (rear) cover of my basses. I replace batteries every 6 months, discarding the old ones. I had a set of batteries die once during performance. I vowed to avoid this in the future. Hopefully, the twice-a-year change prevents the corrosion issue that Joe experienced.
So, speaking of wiring and Roscoe's....... I decided to go ahead and order the parts to add a passive tone control to my Roscoe (Bart 3-band). Has anyone else on the forum done this mod to a Roscoe?
I confirmed my wiring with Frankie at Bestbassgear and he confirmed that it was correct. I'm just a bit concerned as to whether it will affect my overall sound by moving the volume control to directly after the blend control in lieu of the standard location between the preamp and output jack.
Here's my modified wiring diagram.
I confirmed my wiring with Frankie at Bestbassgear and he confirmed that it was correct. I'm just a bit concerned as to whether it will affect my overall sound by moving the volume control to directly after the blend control in lieu of the standard location between the preamp and output jack.
Here's my modified wiring diagram.
Howdy, Roscoe fans! Maybe you'd be so kind as to help me identify the model name of this bass. It came my way in a trade several years ago. I've only used it a couple times since then, and I figure I should put it up for sale.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Interesting. Looks like a Standard Plus (nice top) LG fretless 5, but the Standards don't have the purpleheart neck...unless it was a special order/upgrade thing. Maybe a "transition" model while working out the final specs of the "standard" series? Wilkinson bridge suggests an older model as well.
Thanks much for the help! What would you think a fair price would be? It's in excellent shape except for the wear spot pictured.
Not a STD Plus (matching head stock and Purple Heart neck stringer). It’s a Flat top Custom LG-3005 that Keith made a few of prior to the STD line being introduced.
Actually, I think the old flat top/EMG model like this one was called the LG-2005.
I don't remember whether the purple heart lamination in the neck was standard on the LG-2005s, though. Given that the headstock laminate doesn't match the body top, maybe this neck didn't start out on this body (which is definitely an LG 2005)?
I don't remember whether the purple heart lamination in the neck was standard on the LG-2005s, though. Given that the headstock laminate doesn't match the body top, maybe this neck didn't start out on this body (which is definitely an LG 2005)?
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I'm very interested to see how this goes. I've never done this mod, but it would be useful to me. I'm curious to know how the preamp reacts being after the volume knob (specifically, if you don't want to play at full-on volume, what will happen to the preamp not 'seeing' the full signal amount sent from the pickups). Very cool!
Yes. You are correct Mike. I forgot that they referred to it as the LG-2005.
I had a friend that had one and it had a head stock that also didn't match the top. Not sure why that would be the case.
Maybe they used orphan necks!
The preamp should function properly. Placing the volume and passive tone controls between the pickups and preamp is actually where Bartolini's documentation recommends installing it (when using 250K pots).
But I, like you, which someone else would try it before I do the mod!
But I suppose if it doesn't sound (or function properly) I'll just undo it.
I'm also considering installing a SPST micro Sw. for active/passive too (in a manner that would allow the tone control to function in both active and passive modes). Or maybe use a DPDT SW. so one side of the switch could also break the current flow to the preamp when in the passive mode.
Mine in my profile pic is 3359 and it's a early to mid 90s. I love the scarf joint necks of that era.
If you have the opportunity to take it or send it to Keith for one of his "Plek Spa Days" (and he'll probably want to change out that bridge too) I'm sure he'd be all over it. He really likes to see and show off his old work.
But it looks you're selling it. So, good luck with that!
I have a Mike Lull/XYZ bass with a bart ntmb pre wired with a passive tone and an a/p switch (push/pull volume knob)- here’s some pics. The tone knob is on top of the mid knob, and there’s a 2 way switch for the mid freq. The tone knob works in passive mode as well.The preamp should function properly. Placing the volume and passive tone controls between the pickups and preamp is actually where Bartolini's documentation recommends installing it (when using 250K pots).
But I, like you, which someone else would try it before I do the mod!
But I suppose if it doesn't sound (or function properly) I'll just undo it.
I'm also considering installing a SPST micro Sw. for active/passive too (in a manner that would allow the tone control to function in both active and passive modes). Or maybe use a DPDT SW. so one side of the switch could also break the current flow to the preamp when in the passive mode.
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Yes. You are correct Mike. I forgot that they referred to it as the LG-2005.
I had a friend that had one and it had a head stock that also didn't match the top. Not sure why that would be the case.
Maybe they used orphan necks!
LG 2005 is correct. I picked up one from Crash Clint several years ago. Believe the serial number was 3106A. Crash had done a couple upgrades and had even gotten Keith to install a new neck to correct a truss rod problem (resulted in the "A" being added to the serial number). That's also why there wasn't a matching headstock. Sweet instrument, I'd like to have it back.
That was a great playing and sounding bass JR!
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