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Rotary Switch Source

Thanks for the info...

I'm building a Warmoth Deluxe 5 with Bill Lawrence P-46 (wired is series like a Fender P pickup is) and an Am. Deluxe P-Bass bridge pickup (also Bill Lawrence)
since the bridge pickup is only 2 conductor (unlike the Roscoe Beck that's it like) I'm gonna try to maximize my options while keeping it passive.
If that switch isn't too deep (mounts through the body not a pickguard) it'll be just the ticket.....:cool:

I also have the Fender 5 string P pickup but the string spacing is for (I believe) 18.5 or 19 mm string spacing and the bridge I have is 17.5 mm.
 

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non shorting??

Non-shorting means break before make - the contact of the first position is broken before the contact of the second is made. This can lead to a popping sound.

Shorting is just the opposite - make before break - both contacts are closed for a brief time before the first contact is broken. This is a quieter way to switch.

Actually, both can cause popping. It's worse when switching caps.
 
"make before break" indeed. I did the same thing for a Gibson L9S "The Ripper", from which I borrowed a switch from a L6S (bought them a while ago from evilbay as a NOS part, 20$ for 2, incl shipping to Europe. Maybe contact the seller if he still has some?). The allparts-version like in the link from xaxxat are kinda tall, and don't fit in slim basses.

86361870.jpg
 
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Mouser sells the Electroswitch "C4" series, and other vendors do as well. I've been using these for a while, and they can be ordered in all sorts of configurations. They are more stable and reliable than the cheaper plastic rotary switches from Alpha Taiwan.