Roto or D'Addario - Which is Smoother

[GIBrat51]

I want someone to recommend the steel Swing Bass, just to see which simile is found to describe their feel

Simile? I don't need no stinkin' simile. The '78 Fender P-Bass that I bought in 1988 - from a friend who's band gigged pretty constantly - had those... things... on it until I bought it. What the bass didn't have on it, was much in the way of frets. The fact that steel Swing Bass strings ate the frets off a frickin' Fender, should be all the description anybody needs, about how they feel. But, if you really want one? How about " like trying to play a wood rasp"...? And, while we're on the subject? The short scale DR Sun Beams I had on a Warmoth Mini-Precision were no great prize, either. I put up with the wood rasp feel as long as I could - 'cause they sounded wonderful on that bass - but I finally had to replace them. The GHS Precision Flats it wears now, feel much nicer - and sound just as good...

 

[burgerdj]

Intonation is making sure it's in tune both open strings and twelfth fret, right?

Intonation is a fine adjustment of the string length at the saddle to ensure that all fretted notes play in tune (or as close as possible with equal temperament). You’ll want to check open strings, octave (12th) and 24th. Set the intonation after you’ve adjusted the relief and saddle height.

here ya go:

 

[4StringDave]

It sounds to me like you need to lighten your touch a little. Strings shouldn't hurt after the initial period of playing when first taking up the instrument and your fingers are used to it. Maybe after lowering the strings you're still playing with the force you needed before to fret due to the previous high action?

For smooth, maybe you need to go for flats. For muffled tone, I'd experiment with the bass' tone control, turning it down or even off. If the bass sound you heard and liked in the music store was in the early 70s, there's a good chance the bass was wearing flats, as most basses came with those stock in those days.

 

[shoulderpet]

No, not being patronizing, and yes, I tried that. I still get lots of sustain, just at lower tones.

This all started when I was a little boy in the early 1970's. My dad took me with him into a music store because he needed some saxophone reeds. While I was in there some man was playing a bass and the sound was, for lack of better description, "pure punch", with barely a micro-second of sustain. The "punch" wasn't excessive though, it was far from shaking things, yet you could plainly hear it.

I've been able to come close to the sound by rolling off the tone pot and then set the threshold on a compressor to an extreme setting, but that also kills the volume. You could hear the guy in the music store from across the room.

I think you will need flatwound strings for that from that description of short sustain however if you do switch to flats you won't be able to get brighter more aggressive tones

 

[iiipopes]

I have played Roto stainless Swingbass and D'Addario XL and stainless over the decades. To me, the D'Addario stainless is a little thin in tone. The Roto stainless can be as big and smooth, or bright and clanky, as your personal technique can bring out of the particular bass guitar. You might need to purchase an extra Roto E string, as they have had issues with them going thunk prematurely over the decades. But it is worth it. Another option is the GHS SuperSteels: the smoothness with good consistency. On the bass I had the Rotos on I switched to SuperSteels for this reason.

 

[Arthur U. Poon]

IMO the outer surface of D’Addario XLs and today’s stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s feel very similar. Both are very uniform, and smooth.

The outer surface of stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s of the late 70’s-early 80’s had little “goosebumps”, and the outer wind was a dull gray color. IMO the 70’s to 80’s version that I used felt much more abrasive to the touch compared to today’s SB66’s.

IMO the only difference between todays D’Addario XLs and today’s Rotosound SB’s 66’s is their sound.

 

[Dust2Dust]

IMO the outer surface of D’Addario XLs and today’s stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s feel very similar. Both are very uniform, and smooth.

The outer surface of stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s of the late 70’s-early 80’s had little “goosebumps”, and the outer wind was a dull gray color. IMO the 70’s to 80’s version that I used felt much more abrasive to the touch compared to today’s SB66’s.

IMO the only difference between todays D’Addario XLs and today’s Rotosound SB’s 66’s is their sound.

Did/do you have problems with Rotos chewing frets? I've seen more than one comment about that.

 

[Arthur U. Poon]

Did/do you have problems with Rotos chewing frets? I've seen more than one comment about that.

With this latest, smoother feeling version of SB66’s, not at all. I’ve been using them on my early 00’s MIA Fender Precision Bass, for about the last two years, and it’s frets are looking fine.

IMO the outer surface of the D’Addario Prosteels that were previously on my P-Bass felt rougher than the current version of stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s.

The more abrasive feeling version of SB66’s that I used exclusively from the late 70’s to the mid 80’s beat up the frets on my ‘76 Rickenbacker 4001, but bear in mind, the frets that Rickenbacker used on the 4001’s back then were fairly narrow, and I’ve read they were made of a much softer material. During that same time frame, I also used them on an early 70’s Fender P-Bass, and it’s frets held up just fine.

I would dare to say, unless you have a really heavy fretting hand, and you do tons of string bending, you’ll be fine using them. As smooth feeling as this latest version of SB66’s feel, you’re not going to experience any difference in fret wear using them than you would using D’Addario XLs.

 

[Dust2Dust]

With this latest, smoother feeling version of SB66’s, not at all. I’ve been using them on my early 00’s MIA Fender Precision Bass, for about the last two years, and it’s frets are looking fine.

IMO the outer surface of the D’Addario Prosteels that were previously on my P-Bass felt rougher than the current version of stainless steel Rotosound SB66’s.

The more abrasive feeling version of SB66’s that I used exclusively from the late 70’s to the mid 80’s beat up the frets on my ‘76 Rickenbacker 4001, but bear in mind, the frets that Rickenbacker used on the 4001’s back then were fairly narrow, and I’ve read they were made of a much softer material. During that same time frame, I also used them on an early 70’s Fender P-Bass, and it’s frets held up just fine.

I would dare to say, unless you have a really heavy fretting hand, and you do tons of string bending, you’ll be fine using them. As smooth feeling as this latest version of SB66’s feel, you’re not going to experience any difference in fret wear using them than you would using D’Addario XLs.

Thanks for all the info!

 

[GTHintz]

I've been using DR Sunbeams on my jazz V and they are killing my fretting fingers. It's like walking barefoot on a gravel driveway.
I tune E-C so I have to buy strings for 6-stringers and use the high 5 strings, and this limits my choices.
The choice I have is either D'Addario XL Nickel Wound 32-45-65-80-100
Or
Rotosound 66 Stainless Steel
35-45-65-80-105

My first concern is smoothness. If both are equal, then which one is duller/deader/dies the quickest/etc

I would go Rotosound. Reason why is because I've never had a problem with the texture. They also sound good. If you want nickel you might want to try the nickel rotos. They are really nice. Either that or the solo bass which is pressure wound and said to smooth out the edges a bit. DiAdarrio are pretty rough and to me not as nice.

 

[shoulderpet]

Just to share some more of my experiences, I recently decided to give Prosteels a try as I have used Rotos for ages.

Got to say I won't be buying Prosteels again.
Soon as I fitted them my mids completely vanished and the growl dissapeared, I lasted about a week before I took them off and put a set of Rotosounds back on.