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Rounds to flats - truss rod adjustment?

P

plop

Guest
Aug 27, 2015
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#1
Hello bass aficionados,

I have just received my long awaited set of 760FS through body La Bella deep talkin bass strings. I plan to replace my existing GHS bass boomers (standard gauge).

My bass was recently set up by a professional, and I'm happy with how it's playing at the moment (not that I really know what I'm looking for, it's the first time I've had a setup done and I just let the dude set it up however he saw fit).

From reading this forum I gather that changing to the flats will involve an increase in string tension. Therefore I will probably have to adjust the truss rod. Any advice before I get started? What order should I do things?

I've looked at a few videos of how to adjust the truss rod but I don't own feeler gauges and most instructional vids say to use them. But like I said, action is already in a good place so presumably the adjustment would be minor.

Somebody dumb this down for me.
 
#2
I just replaced factory rounds with Fender 760FL set on a Dean Cabbie bass. It doesn't appear that any truss rod adjustment will be needed.

Actually, I've used the 760FL set for years and very, very seldom has any truss rod on any bass required an adjustment with those strings.

As far as I'm concerned, you don't really need gauges. The whole point is for YOU to be comfortable with the adjustment. if you are, it's good no matter how many 32nds there are between string and fret.
 
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#3
But how do I even know if I need to adjust at all? That's the gap in my understanding. I've read about fretting the 1st and 12th fret, then checking the action halfway between, but I don't get what I'm looking FOR.
 
#4
plop said:
But how do I even know if I need to adjust at all? That's the gap in my understanding. I've read about fretting the 1st and 12th fret, then checking the action halfway between, but I don't get what I'm looking FOR.
Click to expand...
As a start, install the new strings and tune up. Then hold the E string down at the fist fret and the fret right at the body joint. If you can slide a business card (not a credit card) under the string at the mid point without a gap and without pushing the string up, you are good to go. There's a fair chance that you will find a gap between the business card and the string, in which case you may need a truss rod adjustment.
 
#5
Look for the action to be off. If the new strings have too much tension, there could be some bow in the neck, which would show up as action that seems too high. Look higher up around the 12th fret. Small turn clockwise should add tension and remove front bow. However, I agree with Pilgrim, I change strings all the time and have switched flats and rounds and don't always need to adjust the truss rod.
 
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#6
Go get Jerzy Drozd's setup guide, it's found in the stickies.

Read it. Then read it again.

Then you are ready to start asking questions (if you have any left.) That guide is the best source in my opinion, it really gets into the hows and whys.

I would expect to need a setup after switching to flats (or even a totally different set of rounds.)
 
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#7
Thanks, that helped.

Had a charmed run. Action seems to be exactly the same, no truss rod adjustment needed. Three of the strings were perfectly intonated and the fourth one only needed minor tweaking. Bass sounds awesome! I was expecting a more drastic change but it's a still a nicer tone.

Strings feel a little... sticky, I guess, like when I'm doing fast runs my fingers sort of trip up. Normal for new flats or just something to get used to?
 
#8
Flats should be pretty smooth. Make sure they did not become twisted when you installed them. If a string gets twisted, it can disturb the wrap.

This can happen if you manually wrap the string around the tuning post instead of taking all the slack up with the tuning key. Using the tuning key is more tedious, but avoids twisting.

-
 
#11
plop said:
Oops. I manually did the first wind then took up the slack with the rest. How would I tell if they're twisted?
Click to expand...
I don't believe you can tell by looking so I would just restring. Don't manually wrap around the tuner post, turn the key and allow the string to turn while holding it gently.You don't want the ball end to bind in the bridge it needs to be allowed to turn with the string as you wind it on the post.
 
#12
Get one of these (there are a number of brands) to wind and unwind strings with. Makes it quick and much easier.

Do a search for "bass string winder".

Products59449-635x575--1099253810.jpg
 

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