Hey, I just wanted to chime in here to share my experience and methodology for applying RMC. I finished my most recent build with it and I'm very happy with the result. If you're looking for a very even, lower-luster sheen that has that "close to the wood" look, then this is your finish.
So, right up front, I'll tell everyone that I did not explicitly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Rather, it was a hybrid approach of techniques. I spent a lot of time perfecting the surface... there's no hiding anything under a film here, it's gonna be about as exposed as it gets. Blend every curve, remove every scratch mark. I use a single light source and look over every area at a raking angle to find imperfections. I believe I sanded up to 320. Yep, higher than Rubio recommends.
Surfaces prepped thoroughly, all curves faired, bevels refined, then wiped down with naphtha.
My next step was to seal everything with a coat of epoxy. This does a couple of things. First, it partially fills the open pores, which is something that I wanted to achieve visually. A single coat doesn't fill them all the way, it just lessens them a bit. Secondly, the epoxy coat imparts a lovely amber tone that is very much like an ambered lacquer color.
I applied the epoxy (Z-Poxy) in a few sessions using small batches. the trick is to get it applied evenly while buffing it into the surface using a shop towel. After it sits for a few minutes, I buff off every speck of it that I can possibly remove. The surface feels vaguely waxy or oily when done, but it does not feel wet... you can't even leave a fingerprint at that point. Essentially, all that remains is what has soaked into the surface. This is a technique that Ken Parker uses and I happily borrowed it from him.
After the epoxy cures for 24 hours, I wipe everything down with warm water and a rag to remove any of the residue that epoxy can leave... I forget the term for it at the moment. Next, I hit all surfaces with a gray 3m Scotch Brite pad. Everything should have a uniform "frosted" look. That gets blown off, then wiped with naphtha.
I use RMC with the accelerator and apply it with a white Scotch Brite 3m pad buffing it in using a circular pattern. Again, wipe all of it off. Every little bit that can be removed, is removed. No pictures for some reason.
After drying overnight, I hit it with a maroon Scotch Brite pad. Clean with naphtha, and repeat the RMC application again with a white pad. This brings the sheen up considerably. No pictures again.
After drying overnight, I hit it with a white pad, then use the RMC Renew for a final little kick of extra sheen. This is applied the same way, white pad, wipe it all off. And no pictures again.... IDK, I plead insanity.
Dry overnight again, buff with a towel if you like, then assemble. It has a very organic look to it and feels buttery to the touch. It's just awesome, in my opinion.
So, I'm not saying that the manufacturer is full of bunk, but it IS possible to use an undercoat, as well as to apply a second coat of RMC over itself. Just make sure that you have roughed the surface appropriately. Like @TerribleTim68 mentioned, Cam at BlackTail Studios outlines how to apply more than one coat in several of his videos.
Is RMC durable? Well, I think it's reasonably durable, given how thin it is. I think the epoxy may add a little protection as well. But assuming that the instrument is owned and handled by an adult human and not a rabid wolverine, it should hang in there pretty well. And if it needs a little rejuvenation after a few years, lightly sand it and reapply more RMC. There will be zero witness lines.
If you're looking for a nearly foolproof finish and don't want to worry about difficult application (runs, fumes, spray equipment etc.) give it a try. It's a little expensive, but I'm fairly certain I could finish 20 guitars with the smallest can of this stuff. You use very little in an application.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents, and probably worth every penny.
