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Rumble 150 head power switch repair

Terrible way to repair, typical way to hack up an amp though:

1. Never ever pry a switch out like that, it will usually damage the faceplate and may even bend the sheet metal.

2. The fast-on terminals he used are .250” yet the switch uses .187” size. Wrong part.

3. The fast-on terminals he used are blue which is rated for 16 gauge and larger, the wire is 18 gauge which requires red.

4. He used side cutter players to crimp the fast-on which is absolutely the wrong tool for the job.

All of the above is why I mentioned earlier what I said in post #10. It also reinforces my often repeated comments that YouTube is full of terrible self-repair advice.

I’m pretty sure (not positive) that there is a side flange on the old rumble chassis that complicates the removal. Since it’s a safety related repair, it really needs to be done correctly.

Send it to HandSlap and get it fixed right.
This is why I never suggest that an equipment owner without the proper training/knowledge fix anything electrical themselves! BTW, my method of removing these switches is using a wood chisel as a lever, tape the panel to prevent scratches, beveled side toward the panel and gently pop the switch out, then either use solder/ heat shrink tubing or the proper quick connects installed with the proper tool. Then meg-ohm the power input socket from both sides to ground. Mickey-Mousing electrical repairs can kill.
 
Many of these switches will not come out without cutting the retention tabs (part of the safety requirements that they do not pose a hazard by coming loose. For example, the hole size varies with panel thickness in order to meet retention specs.
 

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