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Rumble Bass Not Repairable

#41
borgward said:
What reading should I see if I plug speaker cable into 4 OHM cab and connect multimeter to it?
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About 3 ohms.

I want to know the DC resistance of the driver itself.

I think you are receiving bad info again and again.

The BP-102 is about the worst possible choice for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

A 410 with 8 ohm drivers wired series-parallel will always result in an 8 ohm cabinet.

If there are no single wire jumpers between pairs of drivers, the cabinet may be 4 ohms, using 16 ohm drivers (as originally designed). I’m assuming that these are V-3 version which are by far the most popular version.

There are only 3 ways to wire a 410 with 8 ohm drivers… series resulting in a 32 ohm cabinet, series-parallel resulting in an 8 ohm cabinet, and parallel resulting in a 2 ohm cabinet.
 
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#42
agedhorse said:
About 3 ohms.

I want to know the DC resistance of the driver itself.

I think you are receiving bad info again and again.

The BP-102 is about the worst possible choice for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

A 410 with 8 ohm drivers wired series-parallel will always result in an 8 ohm cabinet.

If there are no single wire jumpers between pairs of drivers, the cabinet may be 4 ohms, using 16 ohm drivers (as originally designed). I’m assuming that these are V-3 version which are by far the most popular version.

There are only 3 ways to wire a 410 with 8 ohm drivers… series resulting in a 32 ohm cabinet, series-parallel resulting in an 8 ohm cabinet, and parallel resulting in a 2 ohm cabinet.
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I got a very inaccurate reading of about 6 OHM on the R410 original driver. (Cheap multimeter) Will try again when a neighbor owning a good one is home. Got 6 OHM reading on the cabinet itself. I bought it new as a 4 OHM cab and indeed it says it is on the back. Will reinstall the R410 and get another reading. Will read the other drivers individually as well. Will also get a reading for the BP102 - 4 to see if it is really a 4 OHM driver.

I am thinking that cab is misrepresented as being 4 OHM. It always was more than loud enough w/4 OHM amp. Maybe that was because the drivers were so efficient. Any other time I tried an 8 OHM cab the volume was very poor.
 
#43
Part of this may be due to pretty high sensitivity. That’s (one reason) why the BP-102 is such a poor candidate. It’s the lowest sensitivity 10” bass driver that I am aware of.

You may very well have an 8 ohm cabinet. I don’t recall if there was a 4 ohm and 8 ohm option for that cabinet.

I developed the drivers with Jeff that were used in the original proof of concept cabinets. The 16 ohm drivers were used in the 210 as a. 8 ohm cabinet and in the 410 as a 4 ohm cabinet. Those drivers were a good balance of the various performance parameters (including weight).
 
#44
borgward said:
At the time, It was the only 4 OHM cab I could buy anywhere at any price new or used. I needed it because my AMP is 4 OHM. Now it is not too hard to find 4 OHM cabs. The drivers are Eminence R410 4 OHM. The cab is Rumble 410. I considered recone but that person seemed a bit scattered. The info I got was from Fender parts dept. Nearest Fender service center is over 200 miles from Austin TX. Zoober... asked "how did you manage the blow-out" Meaning what? It blew out at High volume from a 210 watt Bass amp. The cone material looks cheap. I replaced it with an Eminence BP102-4 which Fender service recommended. I understand it is not a good fit. Was not able to get performance data for the OEM R410 from Fender Parts dept so I could hopefully find something close to it.

How do I connect to The Rumble Club? Well that was a slog finding it. Will check it out.

That's not politics, it's reality now days. Don't care what you buy, sweeper, oven, washing machine they are all sold that way at any price point.
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To be fair, that's called "greed". Politics can be directly related or it can be whole different world of crazy.
 
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#45
The driver inside the 410 cab should look very similar to these pictures. This is one of the 10" drivers out of my Rumble 500C V3 combo amp. They won't be identical, but very similar.
 

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#48
Doctor Morbius said:
The driver inside the 410 cab should look very similar to these pictures. This is one of the 10" drivers out of my Rumble 500C V3 combo amp. They won't be identical, but very similar.
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That looks correct, at least the ones that I worked on the development of.

borgward said:
It was advertised a 4 OHM. It says 4 OHM impedance on the back plate. I wonder if there is an impedance converter built into the crossover unit.
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No impedance converter.

It may be that you have an earlier version, I don't know what the earliest ones used and I don't know what you have.
 
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#49
brianrost said:
A few years ago a local Dyson dealer repaired our 20 year old vacuum cleaner. It’s still running and when the missus wanted a smaller battery powered vacuum for light jobs, one guess what she bought.
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I inherited my family's Hoover that dates to about 1961. Still runs well. A few years ago I saw same exact model out by somebody's trash. Brought it home. Nothing wrong. A year later There was a fancy red high tech vacuum sweeper sitting in the same spot on trash day. I found another Hoover a while later out by the trash. I gave it to someone in need. People collect that model Hoover all over the world.
 
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#50
agedhorse said:
That looks correct, at least the ones that I worked on the development of.


No impedance converter.

It may be that you have an earlier version, I don't know what the earliest ones used and I don't know what you have.
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The R410 reads 15 OHMs. The BP102 - 4 reads 3 OHMs. I get a reading of 6 OHMS for the cab with all R410's installed. Shows 4.5 OHMs with the BP102 - 4 installed. The connections to the driver are the same as when I documented them the first time.

These cabs are advertised as being built with plywood. They are built with OSB. Had a devil of a time unscrewing the driver as the captive nuts do not hold well in OSB. I am very careful about unscrewing anything like that so I can avoid tear out. Once the screw is loosened a bit do not apply pressure inwards as that will promote tear out. I will epoxy the captive nuts back in.

People ragged on me to get a Rumble combo when my amp was in for repair. I have used a Rumble 200 4 X 10 combo. That thing was really powerful. Had to trim the bass way down ( play a Gibson Ripper which has a lot of bottom end) Would probably take a while to get it dialed in the way I like. I am not going to be spending anything on any kind of Rumble considering they are unrepairable after 2 years and that Fender won't supply drivers for love or money.

Now that R410 is showing infinite resistance. I suspected there was something wrong with coil as it would act up intermittently after testing the amp, cables and my Bass.
 
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#51
Ok, (as I suspected) you received a slew of bad information early on about what you have and how to fix it.

You have either a V1 or V2 version which has to be a minimum of about 15 years old, and with one open driver the DC resistance is about right for a 4 ohm cabinet.

You have 16 ohm drivers wired in parallel, an old version of what I worked on a revision of. The BP-102-4 is absolutely the wrong driver for this application. This is why I eyed many of the suggestions with such skepticism.

I do have the newer 16 ohm version of the driver used in the V3, but you may want to save your money for a better, more appropriate cabinet for your needs.
 
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#52
MrAB4003 said:
Something similar happened to my V3 Rumble 100 in 2022. My amp's speaker blew and it wasn't repairable. I had acquired the amp used a few years before that, so I knew what I was getting into.

I switched to Ampeg (the RB-112) after 13 years of playing Fender amps and I haven't looked back.

Sad but true! I recommend buying quality over quantity with everything!
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So MrAB4003 Are you interested in selling your blowed up Rumble? I may be a couple of years out, dunno
 

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