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Safety Planer - alt

chinjazz

chinjazz

Sep 11, 2002
3,924
1,919
Atlantic Beach, FL
mtmash.wordpress.com
#1
Hey Folks,

Any of you check out one of these off brands or copies?

Link Removed

I'm always exploring alternatives to my routers and jigs/fixtures or surfacing.

Since I don't have a jointer or thickness planer, I was thinking about one of these gizmos for the back side of a peg head.

The last time I hit the back of a peg head I made a jig and a router, which is fine.

Just wondering :)
 
#4
I like mine. Got it off Amazomething. The trick (for me) was to not press down too hard on the drill press table, it would flex down and press the workpiece up onto the planer when released causing friction and nastiness. I used it to plane laminated neck blanks with success. Note that different woods work better than others. Purpleheart, for instance, did not take well to this device when I tried to plane 1/4" boards to 1/8". Walnut cut like butter.
 
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#5
T_Bone_TL said:
I think @rudy4444 uses his regularly and has posted a few tips. I have one (old enough that it's an actual Wagner from when they were still in business) but I've made only limited use if it. They are certainly sensitive to being sharp (or not) and IIRC mine included a wheel to keep the cutters sharpened.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was just looking at @rudy4444 build threads. He has great threads, and gets a lot of use of these Safety planers.
 
#6
I-Am-The-Slime said:
I like mine. Got it off Amazomething. The trick (for me) was to not press down too hard on the drill press table, it would flex down and press the workpiece up onto the planer when released causing friction and nastiness. I used it to plane laminated neck blanks with success. Note that different woods work better than others. Purpleheart, for instance, did not take well to this device when I tried to plane 1/4" boards to 1/8". Walnut cut like butter.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I would need to check the stiff factor of my drill press tables. Few questions : Do you know if the Woodtek's blades can be sharpened? Think they would do well on maple? Thanks!
 
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#7
Mine, like @T_Bone_TL 's, came with a sharpening wheel (haven't used it yet). Maple was one of the woods in the laminated neck blanks I used it on, no probs there...

Using it on an (I assume) angled headstock would require some kind of steady jig to keep it flat, I would imagine...
 
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#8
I-Am-The-Slime said:
Mine, like @T_Bone_TL 's, came with a sharpening wheel (haven't used it yet). Maple was one of the woods in the laminated neck blanks I used it on, no probs there...

Using it on an (I assume) angled headstock would require some kind of steady jig to keep it flat, I would imagine...
Click to expand...

Very good! Yeah, with my last neck I made a jig but getting close to the place where the angle breaks was a bit tricky with the router bit length. It shouldn't be hard to pin down the neck to the drill press table.
 
#10
T_Bone_TL said:
I think @rudy4444 uses his regularly and has posted a few tips. I have one (old enough that it's an actual Wagner from when they were still in business) but I've made only limited use if it. They are certainly sensitive to being sharp (or not) and IIRC mine included a wheel to keep the cutters sharpened.
Click to expand...
Wagner!! That's who used to make them, I've been trying to remember for weeks :roflmao:

With very light cuts and a "solid" mounting there should be no problem with using these but that mounting really does need to be as solid as you can get it otherwise vibration will cause damage. It's better and faster to remove 1mm in 10 cuts than to try and remove it in one and mess up
 
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#11
A little diversion from my thread topic. As I was on my way to a morning swim, a light bulb went off and got me thinking... I am doing a scarf joint on my next neck, and planing the peg head piece before gluing it up is probably the best next step rather than doing the planing post gluing. But, I'm adding ears, so my question becomes is it not a good idea to add ears to a peg head before glue up? It seems to be common practice to add ears after scarf glue up, then plane the back.
 
#13
Gilmourisgod said:
The new ones are apparently not resharpenable like the old ones.
Click to expand...
The product link @chinjazz posted shows what seems to be a faithful copy of the Wagner Saf-T-Planer with grinding wheel included. The cutters are ground on the inside only and rotated as they are ground down to keep the cutting edge in the right place. They should last a long time. If your drill press is not fairly rigid (and/or not precisely square to the table) they won't work well.

24760.jpg
 
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#14
chinjazz said:
A little diversion from my thread topic. As I was on my way to a morning swim, a light bulb went off and got me thinking... I am doing a scarf joint on my next neck, and planing the peg head piece before gluing it up is probably the best next step rather than doing the planing post gluing. But, I'm adding ears, so my question becomes is it not a good idea to add ears to a peg head before glue up? It seems to be common practice to add ears after scarf glue up, then plane the back.
Click to expand...
If you have a plane that can do it then after is probably easier but if not then before, just try and support the neck so it naturally centres on the headstock when you glue it up
 
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#15
T_Bone_TL said:
The product link @chinjazz posted shows what seems to be a faithful copy of the Wagner Saf-T-Planer with grinding wheel included. The cutters are ground on the inside only and rotated as they are ground down to keep the cutting edge in the right place. They should last a long time. If your drill press is not fairly rigid (and/or not precisely square to the table) they won't work well.

View attachment 3102847
Click to expand...

It does seem like this one is more cost effective than the other one. Save at least 20 as a benefit :)
 
#18
i have one of the old Wagners and use it in a milling machine for pretty much everything wider then a 1/2''.

Freehand holding of work unless you are taking very light cuts, is dicey but; if the workpiece is in a vise and you have a controlled way to guide it, they work very well.
 
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