Same strings different bass - stiffer feel

While it's not unusual for various basses to have a different "feel" with the same string - 2.5mm (>6/64) seems on the high side - especially with your condition you describe.
Is that how your other basses are set?


Let's get back to the luthier;

If he just adjusted the nut, as requested, there are other factors that would prevent lower action; primarily the condition of the frets.

A qualified luthier or tech should be able to provide you with a "summary", especially if you explained your condition and objectives with the bass.

The summary might include before and after measurements of; Relief, string height and measurements relative to the nut (slot depth or string clearance at the nut) but most importantly; any condition that prevented achieving a lower / or the desired action; i.e. uneven frets.

If he just adjusted the nut, as requested,


The nut height was the 1st thing I suspected, and the luthier may have adjusted it - but that's just part of the set-up process.
The condition of the frets will affect the overall setup; if the frets aren't all quite level (and this isn't a-dressed) the setup might result in a slightly higher set up.

That is such a great explanation.

What I have noticed is that Luthiers and techs in the UK do not go to the lengths you describe. They just say, 'here you go, it's ready, play it'. Problem is that I'm not very confrontational and didn't really notice how the stiffness was still bad until I got home.

I agree about the frets as I do think there's something going on with the levelling and he said he would have charged me more to do that, but that it wasn't required unless I want very low action.

The action I have to avoid buzz no matter what I do with the relief is still too high to slap a lot for example and is higher than I prefer for sure.

I'm not actually convinced he did anything to the nut at all. Just because he said he did, he also said it wasn't much that he took off and I am a bit suspicious.


When looking at the intonation at the 1st fret, should it be dead on without any even 1 cent difference?

Anyway, thanks it's food for thought.
 
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I would always read about how TI's were too floppy feeling and I bought the lightest gauge and put them on a fretless PB and they felt stiff and sounded terrible . Put them on a fretted PB and they felt /sounded great .........what can I say ? :rolleyes:
 
there's something going on with the levelling and he said he would have charged me more to do that, but that it wasn't required unless I want very low action.
That's the key; without the frets being level, the set-up can only be as good as the bass will allow. It's a compromise.

When looking at the intonation at the 1st fret, should it be dead on without any even 1 cent difference?

IME: It's rare that intonation is perfect up and down the neck - there are just too many variables...
High strings can definitely influence intonation, but there are a lot of other factors.
After I've done all I can do so the set-up is done properly, I just intonate at the 12th fret, and really don't worry about it any more than that.
 
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When looking at the intonation at the 1st fret, should it be dead on without any even 1 cent difference?
AFAIK, if it were dead on at the 1st fret it would also be moderately-to-severely flat everywhere else on the neck

See this illustration (above it represents the effects of an uncompensated string at the bridge, below one intonated at the 12th, but you can extrapolate how it would be if the degree of sharpness were 0 at the 1st fret) :

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source:
How fretting adds string tension and its effects on tuning
 
What I have noticed is that Luthiers and techs in the UK do not go to the lengths you describe. They just say, 'here you go, it's ready, play it'. Problem is that I'm not very confrontational and didn't really notice how the stiffness was still bad until I got home.
I feel you. Many luthiers across the world may do that. In China I've met luthiers that return me my bass with 5mm high action, and broken finish!
The same strings can definitely feel different on different basses. Generally more behind-the-bridge length will lead to a more flexible feeling. Rotosound 66s feel more stiff on my Thunderbird than most other standard-scale basses, but the bass sounds so good, I'd like to try even tenser Rotosound 77's on it!
 
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I found lighter basses work better with lighter strings.
All stringed instruments seem to, as a generalisation

My EUB needs heavier strings than my DB.
I have a particularly light fretless that works better with lighter strings than my other basses.

I used singles to experiment with. eg 40-55-75-100-130 - an evenly increasing progression for the best continuity across strings and along the fingerboard.
My 4stringers use the same progression but heavier eg 45-60-80-105.

I now buy singles in packs of 10, and get them much cheaper.
But then I'm a nerd and a cheapskate
 
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