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Sanding a glossy neck: any advice?

#21
Camarillo said:
Thanks everybody for the advices.
The wax thing sound interesting, Illngive it a try maybe before sending, if I find the right product in a DIY shop. Not sure I find the products @Bruce Johnson mentioned because I’m on Italy.
Do all the others, just to be sure, the green Scotchbrite you mentioned is this?
https://amzn.eu/d/bsAMqHw
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Yes, try the cleaning and fresh wax first before you mess up the finish. Do they sell Windex in Italy? It's a spray liquid containing some ammonia, made for cleaning windows? You must have something like it in your kitchen cabinet now. It's made for softening and cleaning up dried grease and wax.

The wax I'm referring to used to be called NanoWax a few years ago. By many different brands. Then I guess someone copyrighted the word, or something. Now it's usually called Detailing Wax, or something like that. It's a Carnauba wax, not silicone or ceramic, that's been ground up very fine and is in a liquid in a spray bottle.

Here's the Meguiar's version of "NanoWax":

 
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#22
Gervais Cote said:
400 grit sand paper works perfect for me. I put some low adherence masking tape on the pickups to avoid any dust accumulation in the cracks when sanding.

Steel wool does a great job as well (0000 size) but you would need to take the neck off the bass to avoid damaging the pickups, IMO.
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I have been using 0000 steel wool for the final stage of fret dressing for many years and never had a problem if bits of it get on the pickups.
 
#23
I second (or by this point fifth) the scotch brite pad, but I've also used sandpaper, first some 600 then a bit finer to make it feel a little nicer.

Everyone is saying tape your pickups if you use steel wool (which is great advice). I'll follow up with when you REMOVE that tape, put a piece of tape on top of your taped pickup first, so that you sandwich the filings between the two layers of tape. No sense taping the pickups and then setting the filings free as you remove the tape.
 
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#25
The right approach depends on the finish you're starting with. My basses, I put thin satin polyurethane on them, and I use 800 grit to sand off the nubs - that works really well for that finish. On Fenders, I will use 400 grit - they have thick polyester (I believe). That works well on that finish.

You don't have to remove all the finish - it's a good idea not to, just scuff the surface a bit. When I've done this on necks, I've never spent more than a couple minutes with the sandpaper, and I don't rub hard - that leaves a decent finish on the neck, but it glides well
 
#26
buldog5151bass said:
Another vote for a Scotchbrite pad. Buff until it feels right. After a while, friction will make it shiny again - re-use as needed.
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Scotchbrite pads have the same abrasive as sandpaper. There are multiple types - with different grits. If you know your Scotchbrite pad is 400 grit, then it works like 400 grit sandpaper. If you don't know what the grit is in it, then you're just sanding with an undetermined grit. Scotchbrite pads are great when you have a surface that's curved in 2 dimension. For all practical purposes, our necks are curved in 1; there isn't an inherent advantage to a Scotchbrite pad over sandpaper.
 
#27
micguy said:
Scotchbrite pads have the same abrasive as sandpaper. There are multiple types - with different grits. If you know your Scotchbrite pad is 400 grit, then it works like 400 grit sandpaper. If you don't know what the grit is in it, then you're just sanding with an undetermined grit. Scotchbrite pads are great when you have a surface that's curved in 2 dimension. For all practical purposes, our necks are curved in 1; there isn't an inherent advantage to a Scotchbrite pad over sandpaper.
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Because it is thicker, it's easier to hold and work with.
 
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#29
Jjacks651 said:
I have used the 3M White Scotchbrite pad very successfully on my Fender JazzBass and Precison Bass's with maple necks and high gloss finishes. It does just enough to keep my sweaty palm from sticking on those HHH days here in CT.

John
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CT! It’s looking sticky outside right now. We get tornados now did you know that?
 
#30
Low Commotion said:
I agree with gregmon79. I might add that you put masking tape over the pickups before you start. The first time I used 0000 steel wool on the back of a neck, I ended up with steel wool filings all over the pickups.

Edit: Scotchbrite is also a great alternative to steel wool. And you don’t have to contend with filings.

Nice looking bass
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Yeah, steel wool is a no go EVER on an assembled bass!
Green ScotchBrite is very aggressive equivalent to 600 grit sandpaper, to degloss I use 1000 grit paper, but depending on whether it’s sterated or not it can clog easily.
My best success is with Melamine “Mr Clean eraser” sponges, dry, takes away very little finish and does the job well.
 
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#31
I usually use whatever medium grit sandpaper I've got laying around. I've tried some finer grit stuff like Scotch Brite and steel wool, but it takes forever to get results. Once I switched over to sand paper, I only had to give it a few passes to it right. If you've also got some 800-1000 grit laying around, it's nice to finish it off with that once you're done to smooth it over.
 
#36
Bruce Johnson said:
Before you start sanding or scrubbing:

If a glossy neck is sticky feeling, that's because it has a buildup of dried wax and hand grease on it. Clean that all off, and then apply a little bit of liquid spray wax, often called NanoWax. Then it will be super slippery and still be glossy.

I clean the goop off of glossy necks with Windex, the classic type with Ammonia. Don't spray it right on the neck. Spray a little bit on a soft cloth and wipe. It'll soften the dried wax and take it right off.

NanoWax is available in autoparts stores and online. Many different brands available. It's a liquid in a squirt bottle. Spritz a little on and wipe it around. Add a little more every so many hours of playing, when it starts getting sticky again. Every so often, clean it again with the Windex.
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I'd second this. I clean and polish my neck maybe once every two months, probably less. I have zero issues with it being sticky. I sweat A LOT too.
 
#39
Lots of good advice so far. I'm in the sandpaper camp. My basses are shop-assembled players with little inherent value, so I'm rather aggressive. 320 grit paper, then 400, 600, then 1000 if I have it. I'll start with 200 grit paper if the neck feel 'bumpy'. Finally, a light coat of Danish Oil.
 
#40
Camarillo said:
Hey there
I have a nice Retrovibe bass that, after a few modifications made by a luthier (new pickups, pickguard, Hipsgot D Tuner) I would like to become my main axe for the rock cover band I’m in. First time I gigged with it I got compliments from the sound guy and fellow players.
There’s just one thing that bothers me, and I want to try to fix by myself: the neck is really glossy. I have others glossy or painted necks I’m ok with but this is very sticky.
Any advice on what kind of sand paper, how far I have to go, anything to apply after the sanding or any other trick you do know and I don’t? Thank you!
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Utterly RIDICULOUS username-to-potential-solution content.

Frank Zappa - Camarillo Brillo


Ope, any chance your stereo is 4-way?
 

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