SBO 23 - Picobass V revival

[joover]

Inlay is one cool idea. I'm concerned that it's going to take me longer to choose inlay design than headstock. How does one pick an inlay design that sparkles joy? Cause the goal of the build is to make me happier

 

[Reedt2000]

Inlay is one cool idea. I'm concerned that it's going to take me longer to choose inlay design than headstock. How does one pick an inlay design that sparkles joy? Cause the goal of the build is to make me happier

That little dog in your avatar would make a cool inlay...

 

[Max Bogosity]

If it were me I'd stick with the original.

If I were to tweak anything, it would be to adjust the string paths to be visually consistent. Currently all options have a mix of parallel, not quite parallel, and definitely angled. That's pretty 'tweaky', though, and it probably wouldn't have caught my eye if you hadn't asked.

 

[J Posega]

I vote #2 because I like a straight string pull from nut to tuners.

 

[Flamingo21]

I second the idea of your avatar as an inlay.

 

[Beej]

I like number 1 best of your choices, just make sure there's at least 2" from the back edge of the nut to the leading edge of the tuner capstan (to accommodate various string types).

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I agree with your avatar as an inlay or it’s not really difficult to print out custom decals.

 

[joover]

Currently all options have a mix of parallel, not quite parallel, and definitely angled.

Keeping strings parallel is the main motivating factor for the change. I've attempted to address it within existing headstock shape, but it didn't work out so far. I'll give it another try. I guess at this point nothing stops me from significantly altering the headstock. Thanks!

 

[joover]

That little dog in your avatar would make a cool inlay...

I second the idea of your avatar as an inlay.

I agree with your avatar as an inlay or it’s not really difficult to print out custom decals.

Ok. I'm convinced. Puppy inlay it is!

 

[joover]

I've finalized "puppy inlay" headstock design a while back, but haven't shared it. Here is the render:

Strings are aligned at the same angle to the center line. Logo credit goes to IronSV at the noun project.

I haven't decided on the inlay process yet. Laser should be able to cut through 2 or 3 mm of walnut or maple and sharp burnt edge is likely to look well here. Need to run more tests.

 

[joover]

Meanwhile, most of the dust generation activities were related to improving my thicknessing router jig. Guides for my larger jig were sagging under router weight. I've tried a few ideas without much success. I've even ordered safe-t-planer from stewmac. Refund for it was requested within 2 hours after first use. IMO the drill press as a planer contraption is very imprecise and unsafe. I did final thiknessing with the original jig + extra quality sanding time.

Proof of clamping for the top plates glue up:

Here are sandwich pieces almost ready to be put together:

Top thinkness is 6mm, bottom is 2mm. I've removed ~3mm from the bottom of the body (I blame safe-t-planer, although 1mm is irrelevant). Body has lost 4mm from the top surface. Bridge setup range was limited earlier as bridge was sitting too low. I did measure height adjustment need. I've even written it down on a piece of paper.. which likely ended up in trash the next day. Whatever, 2mm seems to be a good compromise. I'll be able to adjust it further either by lowering neck pocket or sanding down the top (yey!).

 

[joover]

Would it be better to use epoxy or tightbond original to glue the 2mm veneer? Is there are risk of tighbond sipping through the other side and ruining finish? I'm less concerned about the epoxy showing up on the other side, as I'm testing epoxy as a grain filler, and I like results so far.

 

[Beej]

I'm an unabashed epoxy fanboy. Both may bleed through, but titebond has water in it and I find it's more likely the veneer can warp or bubble than with epoxy. I also like the longer working time.