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Schaller strap locks and thick straps

I've read numerous instances of people resorting to using tools to enlarge the strap holes (because the holes were too small) or to thin the leather around the strap holes (because the leather was too thick) in order to get the strap locks to fit.

Neotech straps have ends which are relatively thick. Others have declared that the holes are too small or the leather is too thick to install strap locks on without modification. They're not. I've installed Schallers on several of them without modification. The key is to put the locks into the strap holes so that the leather is concave upwards like the diagram below.

Strap lock.jpg


The way to do this is to ensure that the corners (circled in red below) are as close to the base of the lock as possible using your fingers or long nose pliers.

strap end.jpg


You're not trying to expose all the threads of the lock, just enough to install the washer and get the nut started. At that point, put a drop of Loctite on the threads and holding the lock with pliers or vise grips (and a rag so you don't scratch the finish), you should be able to easily crank on the nut with a box wrench as tight as you want. Easy peasy!

DISCLAIMER: I suspect this will work with other brands of strap locks but I've only done it with Schallers.

Blue loctite.jpg
 
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If you get the leather dead flat on the lock and it's still tight, run the nut down a bit to compress the leather, then take it off and put the washer on followed by the nut and gank down as described above. I've had to trim the hole a bit on some straps to get the tab to lay flat on the lock. Just push it down as tight as you can, then take an exacto knife and run the tip around the lock post cutting the protruding leather off flush with the rest of the tab. And like brylcreem, when it comes to locktite, a little dab i'll do ya.
 
I did that bit with running the nut down on the strap w/o the washer, but all it did was cause the strap hole to spread.
I got it on, with the washer, by mashing down the strap with the back side of a knife.
They're on there now, but I'd prefer they had more bite on the threads.

IMG_20160319_234336119.jpg


I guess it's not so bad. The top of the nut is just about flush with the threaded collar.
 
I haven't got any Loctite, but I did hold the horseshoe piece on a screwdriver (for leverage) while I cranked the nut down pretty tightly.
The hardware store isn't open until Monday. I guess I should review which type of Loctite to pick up.
If I can find skinnier nuts & washers, I'll just put two nuts on each end.

I see the blue is only $5.50 at Walmart:

pACE3-15308481enh-z6.jpg
 
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Blue is for stuff you want to take apart later. Red is pretty much reserved for larger stuff or small things you never intend to take apart. You can get the red to break by heating it up by putting the tip of a soldering iron on the nut/bolt and letting it soak up some heat, but for a strap lock nut, blue would be plenty. I've never used any thread lock on strap lock and (knock wood) have never had one come loose and I've been using them since the early 90's.
 
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I've never used any thread lock on strap lock and (knock wood) have never had one come loose and I've been using them since the early 90's.

I decided not to as well.

I could find 7/16" nuts, but the highest TPI was 20. Those wouldn't go on, so I suspect the TPI on there is 24.
What I did find was washers that were half as thick, but they were metric. I got the closest ID I could find, 10mm, and then used a round file to bore them out enough to fit.
 
As far as I know, .438 only comes in 14, 20, and 28 TPI. Are you sure the thread is standard? I've never bothered to check as I just always use what comes in the package and a little speed wrench to install them, but Schallers are made in Germany where metric is the standard so maybe it's metric? My oldest bass has a Schaller bridge on it but it came from Fender with wrenches to adjust it and I've always just used those and never bothered to find out if it was standard or metric. If I remember correctly from the last time I installed a set, the instructions said use a size 13 wrench to tighten the nut. If memory serves, that would make it an M8 nut which means it will most likely be an M8 X 1.25. It could be an M8 X 1, but they are pretty rare.
 
M8 is not what you'd call a standard metric size. Most manufacturers will use 1.5, 3, 4, 6, then jump to 10 so it's not something most big box retailers will have in stock. I'd bet you could find some M8 washers and narrow nuts at McMaster Carr. Oh and something else you may want to try. find an O ring that will almost slip fit the threaded portion of the lock. You want it to stretch a little but not too much and the thinner the better. Slap that puppy on before the washer, followed by the nut and gank down. The O ring will work as well or better than locktite in that application.
 
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