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Setup by feel?

When i first started doing setups on my basses i went by the numbers but as i gained experience it’s mostly be feel these days.
I still use feeler gauges for truss rod adjustments because it’s just so much faster to zero in that setting with a mechanical aid, and always gives me a known baseline to work off of, but after that i use a screwdriver and/or hex driver and play as i adjust until i’m happy. I do still use a good tuner for intonation but it’s still mostly feel as i no longer capo at the 12th to set it.
 
This thread is eye-opening. Previously, based on a lot of discussions here on TB, I was under the distinct impression that at least half of us who do our own set ups used feeler gauges, calipers, and triangulation during set ups. I tried those things long ago and quickly resorted to feel aside from the rare use of a ruler marked for 64th inch increments, and that's only to get a string radius consistent to the fingerboard.
 
Yup ... never take a measurement or check with any gauges … eyeball, feel, sound, string response, quality tuner for intonation, etc … no one else knows exactly what I like, or is playing it but me, so no reason to know any specs/measurements to relate to anyone else … and every bass I ever played was unique in some way which never made any sense to me to have a 'starting' point or emulate what someone else uses … as the weather makes neck (or whatever) changes, I simply make the changes to accommodate, ruler or gauges won't do a thing there …

Plus, I am frugal … ok, cheap … many, many years ago I paid to have a couple 'set-up' by supposed pro's, and I ended up making some minor changes to suit my taste anyhow, so why not just do it all and save the $$ …

JMHO .. as always ;)
 
There are two main benefits from taking and recording measurements. The first is establishing a baseline from which to work. The second is saving time.

Every guitar that hits the bench has a different set up. Some have the strings lying on the frets, others have enough relief that they're good for archery practice. While you can get some general ideas sighting them up the tech is starting from a different spot every time. By establishing a baseline the tech is starting from the same point.

Pick an arbitrary, but relevant and useful point. On four and five string basses I set the relief quickly to .012" and the string heights to 6/64" and 5/64" bass and treble sides respectively. You can use whatever you like. That is considered by many to be a medium low or "factory" set up. That takes about two minutes. (I've timed it. Time is money in the shop!) This is all part of the evaluation. It answers a bunch of questions.

  • Does the truss rod work correctly?
  • Does the neck need to be flexed when adjusting the rod?
  • Is the neck angle correct?
  • Where is the low point on the neck?
  • Ski jump?
If all is well, play and listen for buzzes. If it does, figure out why and fix it. If it doesn't, start to lower (or raise) the string heights according to what the player wants. If it's your guitar, do as you will to get it to where you want it.

The benefit from this method is that it is easier to evaluate each instrument starting from the same point.

When the set up is completed, the finished measurements are recorded for the instrument and the player. Now the instrument set up is specified.

The benefit of having a record of what the ideal (for the player) set up for an instrument is that you can skip the arbitrary baseline set up and simply return the instrument to the known good set up. Sometimes it will require a tweak. But sometimes you're done as soon as you put it back to the recorded specifications. Set the intonation and play.

Talk about saving time!
Starting from a known, working baseline can also quickly show if something else is out to lunch, a high fret, warped fingerboard, worn nut grooves, etc. While an instrument could certainly be setup to play with these maladies, it won't be optimum.
 
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