Shielding Q

[JonnyAngle]

I went to my local Lowe's and all I could find to shield with was HVAC aluminum tape...

Is that going to work to shield a bass?

Assuming it works, how do I get connectivity between the pieces if I cannot solder on aluminum?

Is the adhesive used conductive?

Here's the stuff...
Invalid Link Removed

 

[einer von meane]

I like to use that stuff because I work in HVAC and I always have it.

No, you can not solder to it and the adhesive is not conductive, as far as I know.

Sometimes you get lucky and one piece will conduct to another, but usually I scratch over one seam into the next when I’m pressing it in place and that will do the trick.

BTW I think the chopstick is the best tool for this.

Hope it works as well for you as it does for me.

 

[JonnyAngle]

I just finished shielding w/ the Aluinum tape. The trick I used is to fold one edge over on the tape and make sure they connect.


How did it work?


...AMAZING!

 

[ogrossman]

This copper foil is such a pleasure to work with. I think it's well worth the price.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[remy26]

This may sound weird, but I found some copper tape at Home Depot...get this...it's to keep slugs and snails out of your garden! It's called Corry's slug and snail barrier. I'm not sure if the adhesive is conductive, but it works pretty well.

Moal of the story is check lawn and garden or the pest control department!

 

[bassbenj]

I just finished shielding w/ the Aluinum tape. The trick I used is to fold one edge over on the tape and make sure they connect.

How did it work?

...AMAZING!

Since soldering copper is so easy I strongly suggest the added expense of copper. Especially if it's a "keeper" bass. However if you want to go with aluminum, the standard thing is to first use as few separate pieces of foil as possible. It doesn't matter if you have to fold them to fit the cavity just try to keep the continuity going as much as you can. As indicated above, don't rely on conductive glue. Fold the edges of pieces over so the bare aluminum side is out on the folded over edges. Finally to make a decent connection get some small wood screws (Like #6 and get some electronic lock washers. These come in "inside SEMS" and "outside SEMS". They are not like normal lock washers that are just a loop of square wire. These have a row of "teeth" around them. Best are the "outside" type. You can also find solder lugs based on these lock washers. Those are even better to get. Now screw the lockwasher or lug through the folded seams of the two pieces of aluminum foil to make contact. If you use a solder lug you then have a nice place to solder a wire to run to the back of the pots etc.

Remember that all pieces of conductive foil MUST be grounded to the Jack ground. And ungrounded piece of metal foil will shield nothing.

Good luck.

PS. you can also find copper foil at Hobby Lobby used for embossing. Get the thinnest grade. It's still heavier than you need and sort of hard to work with. You also have to buy some spray on glue (also at hobby lobby) but it's not conductive. This is what I do but I'd say the StewMac conductive glue copper is really worth the money. Even though the glue is conductive, I'd still tack-solder the foil pieces together in places.

 

[Vakmere]

You can go 1 of 2 ways, Copper shielding or conductive shielding paint. Aluminum is not the way to go. Try soldering a ground wire to aluminum, I dont think you will find a bass where the manufacturer installs that type of shielding. Do it right, email Stumac and buy a roll or a can and 'Giterdone".
My 2 examples are a Fendowsky and a Ken Smith. Open a Spector and you find the shielding is a black paint on type. All work well.

 

[kraigo]

This copper foil is such a pleasure to work with. I think it's well worth the price.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

This works well and probably a lot cheaper. The adhesive conducts.

http://store.allstainedglass.com/copfoilsheet1.html

KO

 

[bassbenj]

You can go 1 of 2 ways, Copper shielding or conductive shielding paint. Aluminum is not the way to go. Try soldering a ground wire to aluminum, I dont think you will find a bass where the manufacturer installs that type of shielding. Do it right, email Stumac and buy a roll or a can and 'Giterdone".
My 2 examples are a Fendowsky and a Ken Smith. Open a Spector and you find the shielding is a black paint on type. All work well.

I'd revise this slightly. I'd say paint CAN work well, but doesn't always work well! I've had good results and bad using paint myself. And both my fender Jazz and G&L had paint that didn't work quite as well as they should have. But usually it works just fine. Copper always works! I'll also say that I have a couple of basses with aluminum on the back of the pick guard or cavity cover plate. (But not in the cavity!)

I would note too that in your picture, the copper on the back of your pick guard doesn't seem to have any strong ground to the rest of the cavity except the tiny bit of copper over the lip which is not near a screw. Personally what I do is run two thin strips of copper out of the cavity (soldered to the walls) over the top of the guitar and over the two screw holes close to the metal cavity plate. That way the pressure of the screws mashes the copper on the guard into the copper on the two grounded strips for a good contact. If the contact is not near a screw the guard can get a bow and lift off the grounding contact.

 

[David Jayne]

The copper stuff from Stewmac is great- the adhesive conducts and it's easy to solder.
But you CAN solder the aluminum stuff from the home center- just takes longer.

 

[Vakmere]

I would note too that in your picture, the copper on the back of your pick guard doesn't seem to have any strong ground to the rest of the cavity except the tiny bit of copper over the lip which is not near a screw. Personally what I do is run two thin strips of copper out of the cavity (soldered to the walls) over the top of the guitar and over the two screw holes close to the metal cavity plate. That way the pressure of the screws mashes the copper on the guard into the copper on the two grounded strips for a good contact. If the contact is not near a screw the guard can get a bow and lift off the grounding contact.

Oh, I dont know about that. Ohm out the pick guard screws ( with the guard on of course) to the bridge and I get a reading. There enough copper there to do the job. Besides, this was sold yesterday to a nice gentleman from the south. Hope to hear it around Nashville....