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Short scale basses sound better with...

As per the title: short scale basses sound better with...

  • Thinner strings (eg. .40-.95)

    Votes: 19 41.3%
  • Regular strings (eg. .45-.100)

    Votes: 14 30.4%
  • Thicker strings (eg. .50-.110)

    Votes: 13 28.3%

  • Total voters
    46
This may also apply to certain long scale basses (eg. my Danelectro '63 long scale). Sometimes when I play a short scale bass I find myself yearning for a clearer and more even tone. Short scale means lower tension, so the obvious solution is to get thicker strings to get more tension and more harmonics. Despite that, I find that sometimes the added harmonics make the tone actually muddier, with nasty overtones, and the decreased sustain that a thicker string entails (why? Still, that's my experience) makes the E string too thuddy and uneven-sounding compared to the other strings. Counterintuitively, I personally found that I like to decrease string thickness on these basses and go for ultralight gauges. The tension is even lower but sustain increases, notes "bloom" a bit better and I find myself embracing the smoother, softer sound.

On my Dano '63, I'm using Rotosound Funkmaster 66 .30-.90 stainless steel strings (but I think I'm going to go with Rotosound SB66b Medium Lights, ie. .35-.90, for my next strings, since the top strings feel too supple while the low strings are just perfect).
On my Hoefner Club, I'm using the short scale TIs, which have a thick E string (.106 I think) and lighter strings elsewhere.
On my Guild Starfire I, I'm using the light-gauge LaBella DTFs (which cause some string buzzing at the bridge though, to the point that it sort of sounds like a fretless :laugh: I think the recess on the saddles are too wide), and despite the buzzing I like them better than the Ernie Ball Group IIIs I had on before.

So what are your experiences?
 
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It would all depend on the bass as to what type and gauges of string sound the best. And, also on one's playing style and personal preference for the overall feel.

Some string sets are specifically designed to work well on a short scale. I have never owned a short-scale bass, but if I ever end up owning one, GHS Balanced Nickels (44-60-80-106) would be the first ones to try, based on the recommendation by @iiipopes.
 
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Horses for courses.

There is no "better," only "correct for this situation."

If you're going for a 60's thumpy thing, fatter strings can help, but too stiff and you lose the note's bloom.

If you're treating your short-scale like a "solo practice" instrument so you can shed, shred and bend, then lighter strings can help unleash your inner Yngwie Malmsteen.
 
45-100 is often 45-105 with some string manufacturers. Just as there are 40-90 vs 40-95. My short scale is a 28.6 Jackson, I'm on the fence with 40-95 vs 45-100 vs 45-105. Jackson, OEM are 45-100, but the new JS1X is strung with 45-105. Since mine's an older spec 2019, 45-100 is a path of least resistance => D'Addario EXL170S. I almost wish you could buy them a la carte. I don't know that there's any appreciable difference for these sets. It mattered more for the electric guitars 6 strings, I kept breaking the 9 first. My perception was the other 5 strings rarely if ever broke before being dead. With a bass the 45+ cables are likely to be dead before the lightest string breaks.

Since I bought this bass preowned and the ball ends are color coded, I assume they are D'Addario. As I understand D'Addario strings, the Short, Medium & Long scale products differ where the taper starts. Short scale the taper is at 32 inches, which happens to be where the E1 string tuning peg is located. For mine, I don't think there would be a difference really because the taper seems to be for the string slot in the tuner & taper means that what wraps isn't the same gauge as what plays. That said, I don't visibly see or feel much difference from the taper vs the rest of the string to the top loading bridge plate. I do see where the ball ends are, that the area between the saddle & back end of the bridge plate, there is a taper there. So maybe the taper is longer there and for medium & long scale strings that might rest in the saddle slot on a short scale bass ? So I'm just confused with the 1st Bass & restring as to whether the whole long, medium & short scale strings is a myth ? That there won't be any difference beyond gauge. I see 4 vs 5 & 6 string sets. Sometimes a sale on one set makes 5 & 6 string sets more attractive buy, anything beyond 105 and I wouldn't use that/those strings. One could ebay those as singles.
 
Horses for courses.

There is no "better," only "correct for this situation."

If you're going for a 60's thumpy thing, fatter strings can help, but too stiff and you lose the note's bloom.

If you're treating your short-scale like a "solo practice" instrument so you can shed, shred and bend, then lighter strings can help unleash your inner Yngwie Malmsteen.
The thinner strings sound more consistent though to me, it's not about shredding. I wouldn't use them on a more "ordinary" sounding bass, but my attraction to thinner strings on short scales (and the Dano) is that the basses are actually more usable in a band context.
 
Yeah, it depends on the bass. I only have 5 short scale basses that wear actual "short scale" strings. The other other 4 short scale basses, because of their trapeze tailpieces and floating bridges, have to wear "medium scale" strings. Only one of the eight wears rounds, and only one wears tapes. All the rest - and my 16 "long scale" basses - wear flats. As a general rule, for short scale basses I will default to 43-104 or 45-105 gauge strings. Much lighter, and I find that they get a hair too flexible for ME to play well with a pick, as I'm too used to playing stiff long scale flats that way. But, if the tone I want from a particular bass requires lighter gauges, I will certainly go with them. So... which shorty bass wears what gauge strings? First, the ones that wear actual "short scale" strings:
- '81 Kramer "The Duke". 31" scale; aluminum-necked; and headless, the Duke wears 45-105 DR SFL45 Legends. Mainly because, although they're flats, they sound very much like the 50-107 GHS Boomers it came to me with. If they didn't? It would most likely be wearing a new set of those Boomers...
- '17 Eastwood Flying V Bass. GHS Precision Flats; the 45-95 #3020 set. This thing's pretty much a Gibson Flying V clone, but with less "muddy" mini-humbuckers. These strings, IMO, suit this bass perfectly...
- '18 Danelectro Longhorn. The original Danelectro flats (42-83 La Bella 760FD's) are just a little too flexible to suit me. OTOH, the 39-96 760FX's work better, IMO; and, they still give me "that Dano sound"...
- '17 Warmoth Mini-Precision. Again, the #3050 GHS Precision Flats. Precision Flats are clones of the original Fender Squier Flats that all Fender basses once came from the factory with. I want that original sound, and even in 30" scale? I get it with these. I know, 'cause my '78 Fender P-Bass wears 'em, too...
- '98 Starfire Violin Bass. Violin basses usually wear "medium scale" strings, but this one - with it's 29" scale and longer-than-usual trapeze tailpiece - does not. Short scale strings, please. Basses like this can be very picky about the strings they will work with; this one is Extremely picky. So picky, in fact, that La Bella 760FL's (43-104) are the only ones that will even begin to work on this thing - and not all that well, either...

Okay... now for the "short scale" basses that have to wear "medium scale" strings:
- '90's MIK Rogue VB-100 Violin Bass. Yes, I'm a lefty like Sir Paul; and, yes my best violin bass wears 65-115 Rotosound RS88M TruBass 88 tapes, like Sir Paul's Hofner. And, yes, he is sorta my idol - ever since 1962, when I saw the Beatles play in the Cavern Club. But, like all these basses, the VB-100's picky about it's strings. When, after trying a few other strings, the Roto Tapes went on with no fuss; tuned up easily; and intonated perfectly - with no adjustments needed at all? It's never going to wear anything else; and the fact that they make the bass sound like violin basses are supposed to sound, is just sweet, sweet icing on my cake...
- '17 Hofner 500/2 Sunburst Deluxe Club Bass. It's wearing it's factory Hofner H1133B flat wounds (40-100). Hofner calls them "short scale"; technically? They're medium scale strings. When they die, I'll probably replace them with the same strings. Being a lefty, I had no choice but to pay 'till my wallet cried for the real, made-in-Germany model. I'm finding myself very reluctant to mess with this bass - at all. Fortunately, I love how the factory Hofner flats sound on this gorgeous, amazing little bass...
- '94 Gretsch G6119B Broadkaster. Although it's a 30.5" scale bass, it's so big that a lot of "long scale" strings fit it just fine - and a lot of "medium scale" strings (which it should wear) do not, 'cause they're too short. But, the longer-than-most-medium scale "short scale" TIJR 324 Jazz Rounds (42-93) do fit - but just barely. This is my only bass that purposely wears rounds. But, these are the only strings that - after a decade of searching - make the 'Kaster sound like an actual bass, instead of a hippo fart in deep mud - or a baritone guitar. But, they're very, very nice strings - especially for rounds...
- '71 Epiphone EA-260. I was always going to convert this very nice right-handed Hollowbody bass to a lefty, but... it seemed a shame to mess with it, since good ones are getting very scarce - and pricey. So, I gave it back to it's original owner a couple of years ago. But, not before I took it apart; cleaned the bejeezus out of it; and set it up with a new replacement set of 43-104 La Bella 760FL's. The old ones still sounded... OK, but they were just too scroungy to keep. Besides, the new ones have red silks, which look much nicer on that red bass than the raggedy old black silks did...

So... as you can see, I haven't really stuck with any one gauge of short scale string. Or type, either. I really prefer strings that are stiff enough to suit my pick playing technique. Most of my shorty's have strings that do; all the others work... well enough. Mainly, though, I want my basses to sound a certain way, and I'm perfectly willing to experiment for as long as necessary to get the sound I want to hear. And, I don't particularly care about the gauge or type of string it takes to get it (although, I'm happiest if they're flats)...:cool:
 
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MF has a sale on D'Addario EXL170S Light Nickel Wound Short Electric Bass Strings at $ 15.99 each, saves $ 4 per set if anyone else is interested in a spare set to have handy. I couldn't get a definitive answer from MF on their Musician's Gear Bass strings for short scale, those are a 5 string set & pretty much are 45-105 with a 130. I assume they're for longer scale bass guitars, but if they work, just ebay the fattest string as a single after accumulating enough of them ? MG-5's are $ 11 & change. I did see a legacy 3 pack of MG-4's on ebay, but MF seems to have discontinued the MG-4's.
 
For this answer, "sounds better" means avoiding the negative effects you described:

La Bella 760HB2 (39-96) on a Hofner Ignition Club = a lot of flats flavor but with hard-to-believe clear fundamental low E
La Bella 760FS-S (45-105) on a TMB30 = maybe a little exaggerated flats flavor that works very well; P "attitude" still strong
TIJR (42-93) on a Gibson SG(EB) = extreme clarity and beauty, top to bottom.

The first set of bass strings I bought - at that time going with the theory that higher tension would work better on a short scale - were La Bella '54/Jamerson short scale for the TMB30. But with greater thickness although the tension goes up, the stiffness (talking about string construction, not tension) probably goes up even faster, with the tonal consequences as you described well. I had not yet thought of that but certainly learned from this.

I suggest:
For a given string construction, a short scale needs a thinner gauge to stay clear.
For a given string tension, a short scale needs a string with more flexible construction to stay clear.

So, @Boneless, although I voted "thinner", I think "more flexible" is the better answer.
 
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For this answer, "sounds better" means avoiding the negative effects you described:

La Bella 760HB2 (39-96) on a Hofner Ignition Club = a lot of flats flavor but with hard-to-believe clear fundamental low E
La Bella 760FS-S (45-105) on a TMB30 = maybe a little exaggerated flats flavor that works very well; P "attitude" still strong
TIJR (42-93) on a Gibson SG(EB) = extreme clarity and beauty, top to bottom.

The first set of bass strings I bought - at that time going with the theory that higher tension would work better on a short scale - were La Bella '54/Jamerson short scale for the TMB30. But with greater thickness although the tension goes up, the stiffness (talking about string construction, not tension) probably goes up even faster, with the tonal consequences as you described well. I had not yet thought of that but certainly learned from this.

I suggest:
For a given string construction, a short scale needs a thinner gauge to stay clear.
For a given string tension, a short scale needs a string with more flexible construction to stay clear.

So, @Boneless, although I voted "thinner", I think "more flexible" is the better answer.
My hunch, without being a structural engineer, is that tension needs a certain length to actually produce good results. Bearing in mind that the D string in a bass is commonly around .060 in gauge, despite being only one tone below the low E on a guitar (usually around .042) , this tells me that there is a proportional relationship between scale and gauge. I mean, otherwise we'd see guitarists mounting something like a .055 on their low E.
 
I'm about to take this journey myself as I recently acquired a used EBMM Short Scale that came with LaBella 760 flats on there. Oh it sounds good. But I sense that these flats are taking away from the Stingray sound some. I still get "that sound" ... more so with a pick and digging in though. Otherwise it kinda sounds a lot like my other Mustang Short Scale (which also have Labella 760s installed). Now part of me thinks "if ya didn't have the Mustang to compare it to you'd think it sounded great". But ignore that voice..... So in a search it see if I can find that Stingray growl and separate it from the Mustang / flat sound. I went and found (both) a set of GHS balanced nickels 44-106 and a set of GHS pressure wound 7700, 40 - 96. They had some Ernie Ball strings, but I wanted to try these others first. I dunno...... I suspect the tension won't bother me either way. The sound quality vs. the finger squeak will probably be the final determining factor.
 
I install a set of DR lo rider stainless steel 40-100 on my band mate daughter's new bronco bass couple months ago.
Overall playing feel and sound notable improve especially tighter sounding on E string and overall string stiffness.

The rough string surface of DR lo rider SS on normal 34 scale seem get better smooth on short scale too.
 
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My hunch, without being a structural engineer, is that tension needs a certain length to actually produce good results. Bearing in mind that the D string in a bass is commonly around .060 in gauge, despite being only one tone below the low E on a guitar (usually around .042) , this tells me that there is a proportional relationship between scale and gauge. I mean, otherwise we'd see guitarists mounting something like a .055 on their low E.
This is the only thing I could find online for an explanation as a difference. Looks like they're essentially the same strings outside of where any taper starts & most likely is more about how they wind on the tuning pegs for whatever break angle after the nut. The 28.6 scale Jackson the shortest string peg is right at 32 inches from back end of the bridge plate where the ball end anchors. The set on my preowned are D'Addario, but I couldn't tell you whether they were Short, Medium or Long scale D'Addario Bass strings. The taper on the longer strings doesn't appear to change much at the tuning peg. The biggest taper difference I saw from tuning peg to bridge plate string hole, was in between the string holes to the saddle barrels for the way the ball ends were attached. I figure those are the same though on every set to accommodate for the intonation screws & those springs. The Ernie Ball, those are indicated for 30-32 scale length. I just wasn't finding anything that was 28-30 scale.

I went ahead & got the D'Addario short scale version (45-65-80-100) as they were $ 4 less than the mediums & longs. The Ernie Balls I could only find the 40's & 45-105's, they didn't offer a set of 45-100's that were OEM on a 2019 JS1XM. The 2022 Jackson JS1X has 45-105's as OEM strings. They don't indicate brand, but photos are not color coded ball ends, they can't be D'Addario EXL's. Since FMIC owns Jackson, perhaps they are basic Fender Bass strings for those sets ? Jackson wouldn't confirm, but email and they seemed to recommend the Ernie Balls 45-105's in that reply. Maybe next time, I get bold and try EB's ? Saving $ 4 on the D'Addario though, the regular price is within 50 cents. So I might as well stay with even a marginally more affordable D'Addario string set.

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For roundwounds: None of the above. I prefer 45-105.

In my opinion he E-string gets way too floppy with .100 and the G-string feels too stiff with .050. Also, I love round core strings on long scale but prefer the stiffer feel of hex core with short scale. Unfortunately there are not many roundwound 45-105 short scale sets out there. The selection is limited to:

-Pyramid steel/NPS/pure nickel. Great strings but QC seems a bit inconsistent. Occasionally I get a string that vibrates weirdly, causing fret buzz even with perfect frets/setup. Typically the G-string.

-Ernie Ball Regular Slinky. Not my personal favourite but at least they offer a gauge I can use.

-Dunlop. I haven't tried these. I'm not even sure if these are the "regular" Dunlops or the Superbrights. The Superbrights have a far more supple feel than most hex core strings and possibly a bit floppy on a short scale...???

-GHS Balanced nickels 44-106. These are round core which makes them slightly too floppy on a short scale for my taste but I like them on SOME basses (and I LOVE the long scale sets!).

-Optima Gold. I absolutely hated them on a long scale so I haven't bothered testing them on a short scale. Maybe I should give them another chance. The stiffness I didn't like with long scale may actually be an advantage with short scale.

With flats it's a different matter. Especially with stiffer types of flats. For example I love Pyramid Gold 40-100 on a short scale (not a fan of Pyramid Golds on a long scale though, the E-string gets too muddy, at least with the gauges in their standard sets). A 095 E-string would be too light for me though, even with stiff flats.
 
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For me, the GHS Balanced Nickels are God's gift to short scale bass players. I have a set on my 30" scale travel bass. To me, they are not floppy. Quite the contrary: good tension, stable intonation and tuning, consistent up the neck and string-to-string, reasonably priced, and last forever. The pure nickel windings are more dense than NPS of the same gauge, so there is more tension for the given diameter, while retaining tone and flexibility from the round winds and the round core.I had a set that lasted through two annual tours to Mexico. They have big, round tone: no twang or thump. As they settle in, the biggest surprise is that they started taking on some of that woody organic tone as original "Golden Era" Fender flats from the '60's. I recommend that anyone starting a string safari for a short scale standard top load bridge bass to start with this set, play them for several months consistently to see how they settle in. They will provide the benchmark for comparing other sets.
 
For me, the GHS Balanced Nickels are God's gift to short scale bass players. I have a set on my 30" scale travel bass. To me, they are not floppy. Quite the contrary: good tension, stable intonation and tuning, consistent up the neck and string-to-string, reasonably priced, and last forever. The pure nickel windings are more dense than NPS of the same gauge, so there is more tension for the given diameter, while retaining tone and flexibility from the round winds and the round core.I had a set that lasted through two annual tours to Mexico. They have big, round tone: no twang or thump. As they settle in, the biggest surprise is that they started taking on some of that woody organic tone as original "Golden Era" Fender flats from the '60's. I recommend that anyone starting a string safari for a short scale standard top load bridge bass to start with this set, play them for several months consistently to see how they settle in. They will provide the benchmark for comparing other sets.

iiipopes There's been good positive reviews here along with your review. I just had a set of GHS Pressurewound put on my Japanese Fender short scale. I have a set of GHS Balanced Nickels to go on next. A lot of good info here and some other threads. Helps to make a wise choice.
 
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I used D’Addario tapewounds on my long scale basses and loved them, but when using the short scale version on my Gretsch G2220, they were very loose and a bit muddy. I found they came to life when I tuned up a full step to F#BEA (‘solo tuning’).

For rounds and flats, the ‘regular’ tension short scale sets seem just fine so far.