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Short Scale Basses. The best thing since sliced bread?

I won't comment on sliced bread but I will say this shorty IMG_2259.JPG is pretty good.
 
I just picked up a 70s guild to add some variety to my stable. It is a nice dark thing, but with a lot of bite on the bridge pickup. It really seems to like OD and fuzz (it's great for both Jack Bruce and Lemmy). I can't say that I notice a huge difference in feel or anything compared to my 34s, but it has a thing I like some of the time.
 
HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH

Does anyone know why Fender doesn't make a midline short scale similar to their MIM jazz bass series? It seems as though they have the squire and then their is a huge gap and their next short scale starts running about 900 bucks

EDIT: Also, which model do you recommend for the most similar feel to a J bass? I cant seem to find a short scale fender that is modeled after the J bass explicitly

The Fender SS Jazz they had a short run of a couple of years ago might be the best short scale Fender has ever made. Plays well, sounds good, looks good and it was $400. So naturally any bass that encompassed those things would have to be a short run and never seen again.
 
I love my SG basses along with my Mustang and modded Bronco basses. Always looking for something new and different sound wise. In fact right now I'm in the market for something that will fit the ultra low dub club and reggae work I'm doing. Any suggestions?

The Guild JS II can do that. You'd have to find one used, but even though the price has gone up some they're still not unreasonable.
 
My guitar player complained that my bass ('92 LP) made me look tiny (we're the same height, about 5'7") and he also didn't like the fact that it didn't have a binding or other cool features. So I found a fun looking shortie ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed]) and I'm a convert. The SB has a much bigger '70's headstock that we both like, so everyone wins.

Overall length is only a couple of inches shorter, so the size was hardly a factor, 'cept in playability.
 
That's wild. Have you created a thread about that bass? You should.

Thanks.

I've mentioned it in a few other threads where it might be appropriate. Story is I've been experimenting with converting inexpensive 6 string guitars into sub-short scale basses for nearly three years with some decent results but that recent Ibanez AF-55 hollowbody conversion is my best one yet...I think I've found what I was looking for.
 
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I solved the problem with getting a headless Steinberger, for some reason, people think they're short scale basses. Solves all shoulder, back problems, and no, they don't neck dive ever. A mild and good compromise would be short scale fanned frets basses with headstock and bodies. I e no headless/Steinberger style thing. Dingwall makes their Super J and P basses with a scale that starts on 32" on the G-string and ends with slightly above 34" on the low E (4 string). Seems like a good compromise to me. However, as I play dropped tunings, and have to change keys downwards, short scales falls short (ha!) when going down to B and the like, and there's no string gauge that can accomodate for that. At a certain pitch you just have to have longer string. The E on a 30" scale is a little too flubby on me, and while you stay within the first 7 frets of the bass on all strings, it sounds decent. But playing high up above 12th fret on the low E just flubs, and thumps it in an ugly way for me. It has SOME merit in some music styles of ancient past, but as soon we talk modern stuff, they're showing their shortcomings a bit more than their advantages.

However, they are very ergonomic, no less... if they don't neck dive...;)
 
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Personally, I find short scales in general (and I've owned a lot) to be much more mid-range focused as opposed to the rounder, fuller low end statement.

Depends on how they're setup and amps/cabs that they're played through (which is the most important factor).

Most are setup with really thin strings, because of the "student" BS. I use regular-scale Medium-Heavy gauge strings on mine. The action has to be higher as well to compensate for the lower tension, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds, because the reach between frets and first position is shorter and therefore you have more leverage and the forearm muscles that control the fingers can apply more pressure.
Heck, I'd put a 0.130 E String on mine if I didn't have to worry about it unwinding off the core when I cut it down.
But play a Kala U-Bass or copy of one sometime. You can't deny the depth those things have.
 
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