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Short scale semi-hollow body build

Jisch

Jisch

Jun 1, 2005
5,933
13,206
Connecticut (Northeast USA)
#1
I somehow got my eye on a hollow body bass, this will be a slow build behind the Winter Build Off once it starts, but I drew up a design this morning so I figured I'd start a thread.

Specs:
  • 4 string, 32" scale (I might cut the first fret off a 34" scale board I have, which would be slightly longer than 32") with 22 frets
  • Either lined or unlined fretless depending on whether I use this pre-slotted fretboard or not
  • either pau ferro or macassar ebony fingerboard
  • single pickup (undecided which one), passive with tone and volume only
  • flat wound strings
  • two piece ash back with figured/ambrosia maple front
  • I plan on trying to dye the front
  • Bolt on seems like the right choice for this build, I have no reason, but it seems like a hollow body should be either bolt on or set neck and I don't want to do a set neck
  • Not sure about neck woods yet, I need to look at what I have
  • f holes in carved top
If it's not obvious I'm aiming for a deep tone that is representative of a hollow body, fully knowing that comes more from pickup, pickup placement, flat wound strings and an untreated fingerboard.

I think I'll start by gluing up and carving the top. The top I have is only 0.58" thick so I'm not 100% sure I can get the carve I want out of it. I might need to augment it with something else. I think I will dye it before I glue it up to eliminate the chance of bleed through to the ash. The body is a bit smaller than a normal sized bass, to match the shorter scale.

20181204_092852.jpg
 
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#6
Not sure what hassles you had, but Schatten makes a nice simple buffer preamp and at the other end of the scale is a Richter piezo preamp with individual adjustable channels for each string if separate saddles are used. I have Graphtech saddles in my five string fretless and am working on a six with the Richter preamp next. In the wings will be a six string acoustic/electric similarly equipped. So far I have found them easy to work with and more liberating for design.
 
#7
I used the Graphtechs in two builds, there were a lot of complexities in both builds that meant I had to mount them and take them out multiple times through small holes. Maybe it would be easier with this build being that it's hollow and I understand the system a bit better. I made one bass with both magnetic and piezo and I end up playing it with the magnetic pickup solo'ed most of the time.

On this one I have only Graphtech piezos and a buffer, no volume, no tone. I don't play it much. I'll play with it a bit and see if I can come around to them. In both builds I retrofitted a bridge to accept the Graphtechs.
20181204_131119.jpg
 
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#8
Piezo would be very cool, but not exactly “old school”. Twin pickups, spaced far apart, would also be boss. I would use something chrome :cool: If the body is going to be fully hollow, then perhaps the pickups need to be the type designed for ring-mounting (like a guitar humbucker) and not wood-mounting (like a Jazz bass pickup)? If this were my build, I would maybe use a pair of these: Alumitone Single Coil in Chrome or Gold. Suspend from the drop-top, or mount using chrome rings.
 
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#9
Much like my five string but I have volume and simple tone side mounted. I play this through a vintage Traynor YBA-1 and a custom 2-25 cabinet at it works great. I am looking to change out the tone for a sweepable filter but we will see. As far as not being "old school" there was a time before pickups.
 

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#10
Slidlow said:
Much like my five string but I have volume and simple tone side mounted. I play this through a vintage Traynor YBA-1 and a custom 2-25 cabinet at it works great. I am looking to change out the tone for a sweepable filter but we will see. As far as not being "old school" there was a time before pickups.
Click to expand...
That is a very similar build! I considered side mounting V/T knobs, but decided I'd try without them first. I play it through a DI box, so I when I play that instrument I just use the DI as the V/T for it.
 
#11
ctmullins said:
Piezo would be very cool, but not exactly “old school”. Twin pickups, spaced far apart, would also be boss. I would use something chrome :cool: If the body is going to be fully hollow, then perhaps the pickups need to be the type designed for ring-mounting (like a guitar humbucker) and not wood-mounting (like a Jazz bass pickup)? If this were my build, I would maybe use a pair of these: Alumitone Single Coil in Chrome or Gold. Suspend from the drop-top, or mount using chrome rings.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I've used Alumitones a few times, and really like them. That's a great idea.
 
#12
So for installation there is a pocket directly underneath the bridge for the piezo wires and connections. Cross drilled from the output jack to the control cavity on the upper edge intersecting the cavity under the bridge. No routing on the back. This allowed feeding the wires through from the jack to the preamp/volume/tone circuit and have a cable from the bridge also feed through to the preamp. The bridge lifts off with all piezo elements and cables attached and can be disconnected there so no pulling of the preamp. I have started a six string that will use same setup but with the afore mentioned Richter six channel buffer. I am looking at EMGs VMC as a replacement for the tone on the five. We'll see.
 
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#13
Jisch said:
Thanks for the that feedback, maybe I'll go with two pickups. I don't have anything picked out yet, any suggestions? I don't have a lot of experience in this area.
Click to expand...

There's so many options out there, I wouldn't even know where to start. Plus, I'd hate to suggest something and have you not like it! ;)

I've never used Alumatones, but always been very curious about them. From what I hear they sound great, and they might save a bit on weight too, if that's a concern. I don't know whether the little strat sized ones would be better or worse than their Bassbars, but either way they look exceptionally cool.
 
#14
I "routed" a channel under the bridge for the wires to run over to the control cavity. I also drilled a hole through the bridge under each string saddle. That way you can't see the wires. I miscalculated a few things a couple times before getting it right (luckily nothing you can see). Those wires on the graphtech are fragile to a certain degree and I broke one, which was frustrating.
 

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