My B3K arrives tomorrow, will post a picture of what a work out afterwards. Thinking bass > tuner > Iron Ether Subterranea > Darkglass B3K > Iron Ether Xerograph Deluxe but maybe I should try drive first...
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Show me your compact pedalboard setup
- Thread starter garmenteros
- Start date
I haven't had a chance to tell you before, but I really love your little board, Joe!
The first time I saw it, I thought it was a black & white picture --even the carpet is gray.
Then I noticed the blue on the Mooer pedal and the cyan on the Polytune and thought, "Wow, it's almost like he planned this."
Anyway, nicely done!
Well, most use a combination of
zip ties (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Zip-Tie-100-Bag/dp/B0001IMMJI):
Velcro ties (http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusab...F8&qid=1355774945&sr=8-2&keywords=velcro+ties):
and sometimes adhesive cable tie holders (http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Cable-Holder-Black-Pack/dp/B003ZB2A0E):
You run a cable tie through two of the holes and then wrap the cable tie around your wires.
Here's a few pics:
Hope that helps...
Allen
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I've been reading about the new ebs cables. Look very small and neat to me, though they do nothing to answer your question about securing excess length.
Wireless ->Compressore->DI ->foh / DI->Line Selector->Amp / Line Selector -> vt bass ->Wireless IEM (psm200)
I use the vt bass for my in-ear sound only. Front of house gets only my compressore. The signal is split from the selector sending one signal straight to my amp (or not) and one to the vt bass which I use basically as an eq. I've been using this setup for the past few months and really loving it. All wireless, compact, and great for practice. I can send a second signal (mp3 or whatever is handy) to the second input on my in-ear mixer and sit down and go over parts etc.
The vt bass really does make my in-ears sound great.
Here's my attempt at this. I posted in the PYPB thread just recently with a different setup, but hadn't yet played with the H9 I had ordered. I was planning to just return it immediately to get some money back but after using it a bit, I think I will keep it, much to wallet's dismay...
I'm using the H9 exclusively for reverbs. I've got the Hall, ModEchoVerb, and Blackhole algorithms loaded so far. It's an awesome device. I've got more dirt and an M9 in the reserves for variety's sake, but I *think* this will be the core board going forward.
I'd like to also extend my deepest gratitude to top-mounted input jacks for making this possible.
I'm using the H9 exclusively for reverbs. I've got the Hall, ModEchoVerb, and Blackhole algorithms loaded so far. It's an awesome device. I've got more dirt and an M9 in the reserves for variety's sake, but I *think* this will be the core board going forward.
I'd like to also extend my deepest gratitude to top-mounted input jacks for making this possible.
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I haven't had a chance to tell you before, but I really love your little board, Joe!
The first time I saw it, I thought it was a black & white picture --even the carpet is gray.
Then I noticed the blue on the Mooer pedal and the cyan on the Polytune and thought, "Wow, it's almost like he planned this."
Anyway, nicely done!
Thank you very much.
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I have a power supply question. I'm working on a ultra small board. 2 pedals, a Digitech and a Mooer. Right now I have 2 identical power supplies for each one. My question is: As long as the power supply has enough output, can I solder both barrel plugs to just one transformer, creating A "Y"? I understand not crossing wires and making sure polarity is the same and all that, I just didn't know if this was a bad idea or not. I can solder fine, I have all the materials I would need. Comments please?
I'm really new to effects. I recently got into it after rebuying a loop station. For a while I had the first gen loop station then sold it, I bought a bunch of other stuff that I never really used in the end.
So as I dug up in my old stuff I found the RV5 and ML2 and thought "well might as well buy a tuner and have a small kit that I can carry" But now I think of removing the ML2 and buy either a SYB5 or OC3 I'm just unsure of what will be interesting especially since I only use effects when I play with my looper otherwise I don't use anything.
If the Digitech is digital it may need to be isolated from the Mooer - but yeah you can daisy chain power.
Which Mooer pedal though ? The Shimverb gets a bit cranky if the power supply is shared and loaded. Can't remember exactly what it sounded like but it went into oscillation, for sure.
Thanks for the heads-up Mooer Shimverb tip... so far I only have two Mooer pedals.
Thanks...I'm using the Pure Octave. It's a decent pedal for the used price I paid, plus I use it to pull of some chordal stuff because my band doesn't have a keys player. It's warbles a touch for the chords I'm playing, but it just adds to the synthy quality I'm using it for.
You're welcome.
And thanks for the Mooer Pure Octave report too - I haven't play with one yet, but I think this the first real positive report I've read so far, so that's good. Cheers
I have a question. I have a boss tuner, boss loop station, Digitech synth wah, and Billy Sheehan EBS pedal.
All are 9V input. But the mA is different. Can I use one electric plug in for all ? I'm not an electrician and not sure if the mA is important or not.
Forgive my ignorance, thanks.
All are 9V input. But the mA is different. Can I use one electric plug in for all ? I'm not an electrician and not sure if the mA is important or not.
Forgive my ignorance, thanks.
Adamixoye
A PT Pro is cool for worship, right?
- Apr 9, 2012
- 18,158
- 69,338
- Disclosures
- Occasional Beta Tester for Confusion Studios, Singular Sound, and Source Audio
The voltage is the most important thing with regard to whether or not they can be shared---you need to run any pedal at its proper voltage (although some allow for a range). The other important thing is that the TOTAL current required (add up all the mA requirements from each) is less than what the power supply will provide. For example a 1spot adapter is 9V and provides up to 1700 mA. Typical pedal current requirements range from 10 mA to a few hundred mA. I'm pretty sure a 1spot would cover everything you have here, but you need to make sure you have the right type of plugs (Boss-style center negative is most common, but certainly not the only possibility).
It is possible that, if all of the above goes well and you technically can power all of the pedals, that you will still have a problem with noise or hum because that particular combination of pedals doesn't like each other. You have to experiment to find this out.
Using one power adapter for all those pedals should be fine. Just add up the current requirements (mA) for the pedals and check if the power supply can handle the total.
EDIT: Too slow, again.
EDIT: Too slow, again.
Adamixoye
A PT Pro is cool for worship, right?
- Apr 9, 2012
- 18,158
- 69,338
- Disclosures
- Occasional Beta Tester for Confusion Studios, Singular Sound, and Source Audio
Yes, exactly. As long as each pedal is receiving its intended voltage (you CAN'T go higher than what a pedal states, that could fry the pedal) with the right polarity ("center negative" or "center positive," for example; basically, the proper plug in the power jack), then this is the rule for current. The pedal will only take as much as it needs.
