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Sire Bass Club!

What color/wood combination do you own?

  • Bright Metallic Red/ Ash

    Votes: 17 1.6%
  • Bright Metallic Red/ Alder

    Votes: 33 3.2%
  • Natural/ Ash

    Votes: 173 16.7%
  • Sunburst/ Ash

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • Sunburst/ Alder

    Votes: 165 15.9%
  • White/ Ash

    Votes: 86 8.3%
  • White/ Alder

    Votes: 122 11.7%
  • Black/ Alder

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • M3

    Votes: 28 2.7%
  • M7

    Votes: 85 8.2%
  • I'm a heretic - I don't own one yet, but I'll see the light soon enough!

    Votes: 243 23.4%

  • Total voters
    1,039
  • Poll closed .
How's the P pickup in active mode?
That's a good question. So far I'm really digging it in passive, but active not as much. It may be that the strings are still not broken in, but in active it doesn't sound as round to my ear. I still need more time in a live situation to make that call. I may need to trim that blue pot down a hair to compensate, as when I have everything flat there is a noticeable volume boost when switched from passive to active.
 
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That's a good question. So far I'm really digging it in passive, but active not as much. It may be that the strings are still not broken in, but in active it doesn't sound as round to my ear. I still need more time in a live situation to make that call. I may need to trim that blue pot down a hair to compensate, as when I have everything flat there is a noticeable volume boost when switched from passive to active.
There is small cubic blue pot on the PCB that is made to even or balance active and passive volumes.
 
So.. I've noticed a couple of minor issues with my natural ash v7.

I noticed that the neck pickup wasn't perpendicular to the string - it was slightly canted over to one side regardless of the 'tension' of the mounting screws. I think that the screws are slightly out of position, causing the pickup to bind against the pick guard. If I need to put new screws in to correct the location, I'll have to drill out the screw holes and put a small dowel pin in to fill them, which is a pain.

Also, the routed cavity for the pickup is double the width of the pickup (presumably to allow for the neck pickup to be in '60s or '70s - are they all like this? I think I've seen natural ash bodies with a single space routed in the body. It's a shame on a naturally finished bass - I might have thought to use a clear pickguard or no pickguard.

Just minor niggles really, but interested to see if others have seen this with their v7s. It's hardly a lemon, but a shame to have to fix these problems.

Alex
 
So.. I've noticed a couple of minor issues with my natural ash v7. I noticed that the neck pickup wasn't perpendicular to the string -...
Also, the routed cavity for the pickup is double the width of the pickup (presumably to allow for the neck pickup to be in '60s or '70s - are they all like this? I think I've seen natural ash bodies with a single space routed in the body. It's a shame on a naturally finished bass - I might have thought to use a clear pickguard or no pickguard... Alex
I understand you refer to the neck PU and its cavity under (and hidden by) the pickguard.
The Fender Jazz Bass 70's PU position relates to the bridge PU that is moved 1/2" closer to the bridge compared to its 60's position.
 
Question about strings through Bridge, not Body for Sire V7 5.....
Is it OK? Look at this Picture - Holes are below intonation Screws - does Screws and Springs on them interfere with String if through Bridge is prefered Method? Tnx
 

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Question about strings through Bridge, not Body for Sire V7 5.....
Is it OK? Look at this Picture - Holes are below intonation Screws - does Screws and Springs on them interfere with String if through Bridge is prefered Method? Tnx
No, there aren't any issues with it. My Sires are all strung through the bridge and they work completely fine. The only issue you may have with stringing the bass is perhaps through the body. My tech said that the angle they came out of the body was too sharp.
 
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Thank you for quick Reply, is it for 5 Strings V7 the same? 4 String version seems to have Holes offset to Screws.
I aksed because i like to soak strings from time to time in Denaturated Alcohol (i use 2 sets - one on Bass, other in Alcohol for 1-2 Days and then i store them for later use), and taking them of Bass if through the Body is used is not good for Strings (bending, straightening multiple times). On my Warwick, they are top loaded on the Bridge so it is no concern.
 
If you don't like it call Sire. They may be able to send you a new one if you aren't happy with it.

It doesn't make any practical difference to be honest - I was thinking of removing the pick guard but the screw holes have been tightened up enough to have pulled the lacquer coat off around the screw hole. You can see the shape of the neck pickup hole in the picture below.

I've gone to the trouble of lining the cavities with copper tape, so I think this one's a keeper (for better or worse!). If you're curious, the resistance measured between graphite paint inside the pickup cavity and the star earth point on the preamp was about 35 ohms before, and about 0.5 ohms after so it is worth doing if your concerned about noise. I still get a lot of EMI noise picked up from my PC, but it is definately less noisy than before.

Just got to figure out how to fix the wonky pickup now..

IMG_20171010_194723.jpg IMG_20171010_225134.jpg

23940894228_0c8293b74c_c.jpg
 
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When you do the copper tape, it needs to be grounded, correct? If so, how did you do that?

In the photos above you'll see that there is a black wire with an exposed wire loop next to the pickup leads - this is connected to the cavity (either the graphite paint or the copper foil) via a small screw driven into the body to hold it in contact.

There are earth connections for each pickup cavity and the bridge connecting together to a star earth connected to the jack screen connection, so all of the cavities and the bridge are already earthed, just not as well as they could be :)

I've also put a foil screen under the pick guard covering an inch or so either side of the pickup and a couple of strips to make contact between the neck cavity and the underside of the pick guard.
 

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