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Sire Bass Club!

What color/wood combination do you own?

  • Bright Metallic Red/ Ash

    Votes: 17 1.6%
  • Bright Metallic Red/ Alder

    Votes: 33 3.2%
  • Natural/ Ash

    Votes: 173 16.7%
  • Sunburst/ Ash

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • Sunburst/ Alder

    Votes: 165 15.9%
  • White/ Ash

    Votes: 86 8.3%
  • White/ Alder

    Votes: 122 11.7%
  • Black/ Alder

    Votes: 104 10.0%
  • M3

    Votes: 28 2.7%
  • M7

    Votes: 85 8.2%
  • I'm a heretic - I don't own one yet, but I'll see the light soon enough!

    Votes: 243 23.4%

  • Total voters
    1,039
  • Poll closed .
$199 advertised for the hardshell case on the SIRE-USA website :meh:

Is the V7 going away? I didn't see any new revisions for that bass

In my understanding, the V7 Alder models will be continued, probably with the new battery compartment...
And the V7 Vintage will remain available both in Alder and Ash.

Still don't get the point why the V8 is so much more expensive than the previous V7 Ash models, is there more difference than the roasted neck? While I really like those necks, an increase in around 200 $ or more compared to the V7 Ash seems high...
 
OK, here goes.

Creating a Magnetic Battery Compartment Door for a Sire M5 Bass:

1) Remove the four wood screws that attach the battery compartment lid (door) to the body.

2) Snip/saw/grind the wood screws until only a thread or two remains beneath the screw head.
(Note: The amount of screw length you leave beneath the screw head will vary with the amount of 3mm diameter magnets in the stack you will use in a future step. More on this later.)

3) Measure the depth of a screw hole by sticking a toothpick or something similar in it. Make a note of the depth because you will use it to determine how many 1.5mm you will need to stack up to fill the hole at the proper depth.
(Note: You will NOT fill the hole to to be flush with the hole surface! You must leave room for the depth of the 3mm diameter "cap" magnet! More to come.)

4) Stack as many 1.5mm diameter magnets as will snuggly fit down each of the four wood screw holes in the bass body.
(Note: This number will vary depending on the depth of each 1.5mm magnet you use.)

5) Tap the stack of 1.5mm magnets down into each screw hole with a small punch or finishing nail set so each stack sits recessed in the hole.
IMPORTANT: Tap the magnet stack down so it leaves about 2mm of depth from the surface of the hole so a 3mm "cap" magnet that will sit atop each 1.5mm magnet stack will be able to sit flush with the screw hole surface.

6) Enlarge each body screw hole to accommodate the width of a 3mm diameter magnet that will sit atop the stack of smaller magnets.

7) Place and glue the 3mm cap magnet in each screw hole, atop the stack of smaller magnets.
(Note: The resulting, cumulative magnetic pull of the magnet stack and cap is strong.)

8) Door Magnets Installation: Enlarge each screw hole in the battery compartment door to accommodate the width of a 3mm diameter magnet.

9) Place and glue a 3mm magnet in each of the four holes in the door.
IMPORTANT: BEFORE GLUING EACH 3MM MAGNET IN PLACE, MAKE SURE TO ORIENT THE IT IN THE DOOR SO IT IS ATTRACTED TO THE MAGNET IT FACES IN THE BODY.

10) Align the door magnet caps above the battery compartment magnet caps and lower the door to the battery compartment, et voilà!
The four magnet caps in the body and the magnet caps in the door will attract each other and hold the door securely to the bass body.

THE TEST: Hold the bass in your hands horizontally, with the strings facing up. Shake the living crap out of the bass as hard as humanly possible.

THE RESULT: The combined weight of the two 9-volt batteries and the door itself are insufficient to move the door and make it fall open.

WHAT THIS MEANS: The solution works!

******************

HOW TO REMOVE THE DOOR: Just slip a fingernail near the edge of any door corner and lift the door up slightly to disengage the magnetic pull. Then just lift the door off the bass.

HOW TO REINSTALL THE DOOR: To reinstall the door, align door with the battery compartment, making sure the Sire brand is rightside-up in the proper, legible orientation, and bring the door near the battery compartment. Then rejoice in hearing the satisfying "snap" as the door falls securely in place.

******************

BIG TIME CAVEAT: Make damn sure all magnets are stacked and oriented so their polarities match!

Just test a stack of them, including the cap magnets, to ensure they attract versus repel each other, then make note of how they need to face each other in order to attract.

Might sound obvious and dumb to call this out, but it is what it is: Test magnet polarity BEFORE inserting the 1.5mm magnets in the screw holes; test magnet polarity attraction of the 3mm cap magnets BEFORE gluing them to each stack: test magnet polarity attraction of each of 3mm magnets in the door BEFORE placing and gluing them down.

******************

Follow these steps and evermore enjoy quick and easy battery swaps with your spiffy, magnetically-modded Sire M5!

I'm clearly missing something. What is the purpose of step 2?
 
Is the V7 going away? I didn't see any new revisions for that bass

The V7 is still on the website, just no modifications (except ash body no longer available). Can't imagine they'd drop it, it's their flagship model and I'd bet it's their best seller.
 
I'm clearly missing something. What is the purpose of step 2?

To keep some metal in there for the the magnets to hold onto?

@Crix , I'm curious about this too, since the screws seem to be completely replaced by magnets in the door...? Seems like the original plan was to have the screws be the iron that the body magnets attract, but were later replaced by magnets and Step 2 was never edited out of the procedure?
 
The V7 is still on the website, just no modifications (except ash body no longer available). Can't imagine they'd drop it, it's their flagship model and I'd bet it's their best seller.

Screenshot_20221013-071849~2.png


Well, as already stated by Sire, the V7 in Alder is continued.

As to my reasoning about the V8 price, apparently the prices of all Ash models have been raised significantly.:eek:
I remember that Ash was usually around 100 $ more than Alder...
 
View attachment 4848044

Well, as already stated by Sire, the V7 in Alder is continued.

As to my reasoning about the V8 price, apparently the prices of all Ash models have been raised significantly.:eek:
I remember that Ash was usually around 100 $ more than Alder...

I bought a Sire P7 Swamp Ash new for $913 on 9/17/21.
The new P8 is $999, has a roasted Maple neck and a heavier mass bridge.
With the way prices have risen on everything everywhere, I still think that's a pretty good deal from Sire.
 
View attachment 4848044

Well, as already stated by Sire, the V7 in Alder is continued.

As to my reasoning about the V8 price, apparently the prices of all Ash models have been raised significantly.:eek:
I remember that Ash was usually around 100 $ more than Alder...

While I can maybe understand them dropping ash, I am more than glad that I've got my 1st gen Ash V7!
 
I bought a Sire P7 Swamp Ash new for $913 on 9/17/21.
The new P8 is $999, has a roasted Maple neck and a heavier mass bridge.
With the way prices have risen on everything everywhere, I still think that's a pretty good deal from Sire.

Well, I bought a V7 Vintage 4 string Ash in Dec 2020 for regular 629 €. AFAIK the official price in $ was similar — probably 1€ was somewhat more than 1 USD. Now it's 863 $ whereas the Alder is still 654 $. So the increasing rarity of Ash wood seems to show up HERE finally...

Edit: It's still "only" 799 € at Thomann, so that's possibly a bargain now...
 
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Wow, that's already getting close to the V10/P10 which are discontinued too. The new V10/P10 dx are now in the $1700 range which seems a bit too much for me just for lighter tuners and another high mass bridge.
Wow, that's crazy expensive to me.
 
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So...I thought these basses were made for "the masses" to be able to afford. :atoz:

All I can say is I'm glad I bought mine Sire basses when I did. No way could I swing it now.

I dunno, the 2s, 3s, and 5s all still seem to punch above their weight class, still what I would consider basses made for the masses.

Of course, it's always a bummer to see prices going up, even if there is some kind of justification for it.
 
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Reactions: Rod Barchetta
So...I thought these basses were made for "the masses" to be able to afford. :atoz:

All I can say is I'm glad I bought mine Sire basses when I did. No way could I swing it now.
EXACTLY. It feels like the 80's all over again with ATM's. "They're free to use" but after society is hooked they charge $3 a transaction. I agree and I'm SO grateful I got my 1st gen ash P/J (the BEST P/J I'll ever own) for less than $475. Maybe not the best analogy, but you're 100% right. $1700 is hardly the masses, especially now.
 
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