I wondered about that, too. It's the first time I have read of a Heritage-2 preamp. Interestingly, the Z3 with only bass and treble controls is said to still have the regular Heritage-3... The Z models seem to be missing the active/passive switch, but that would apparently fit the Musicman style...
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I wondered about that, too. It's the first time I have read of a Heritage-2 preamp. Interestingly, the Z3 with only bass and treble controls is said to still have the regular Heritage-3... The Z models seem to be missing the active/passive switch, but that would apparently fit the Musicman style...
The active/passive switch, mid freq control, and tone control that works in both active and passive mode are features that I think makes the Sire preamp one of the best. I don't like to see those features disappear.
I got it from WD Music but it wasn't an "off the rack" pickguard. I had to send them a tracing.
Before:
View attachment 5260802
After:
View attachment 5260803
Honestly, the black looks great and the black outer edge of the buest ties nicely with it. But I like how the white pearl ties in with the blocks even better.
But, tomayto, tomahto, ya know. They both work.
Wow, what an improvement. It really does bring out the block inlays. I absolutely love it.
I just purchased a new p5r 5-string. I didn't really care for any of the color options available, so I opted for the natural finish. This is my first PBass, but I don't think it will take long to get used the the different neck (I'm used to JBass type necks). However, the setup on this (new) bass is horrible. One could almost drive a truck under the strings. There's no way I could play with action that high.
I play with a light touch and prefer ultra low action. All of my basses have action that this so low that they almost play themselves. However, with the p5r, when I started lowering the action, I started getting string buzz before I was able to get the action anywhere near where I want it. I don't know what strings are on it, since it is new. I have a feeling that the nut height might be too high. I'll have to measure it.
This is not my first MM bass. I've never been able to get my hands on any MM bass as I have never seen one locally, so I bought a budget model, a used M2 5 string. The M2 plays very well and other than one bad issue with the preamp, I love the M2 and learned enough that I will likely buy a M5 or M7 at some point.
With the PBass, I specifically wanted a passive bass. All of my other basses are active. I like the tone of the p5r, but I am still getting used to it, this being my first PBass. I'll get the setup sorted.
Rule #1:
I play with a light touch and prefer ultra low action. All of my basses have action that this so low that they almost play themselves. However, with the p5r, when I started lowering the action, I started getting string buzz before I was able to get the action anywhere near where I want it. I don't know what strings are on it, since it is new. I have a feeling that the nut height might be too high. I'll have to measure it.
This is not my first MM bass. I've never been able to get my hands on any MM bass as I have never seen one locally, so I bought a budget model, a used M2 5 string. The M2 plays very well and other than one bad issue with the preamp, I love the M2 and learned enough that I will likely buy a M5 or M7 at some point.
With the PBass, I specifically wanted a passive bass. All of my other basses are active. I like the tone of the p5r, but I am still getting used to it, this being my first PBass. I'll get the setup sorted.
Rule #1:
The issue with the preamp in the M2 is the pickup blend control. While the pot rotates like a pot should, it does not blend the control of both pickups. It functions more like a either or switch. With the blend control centered, if you turn the knob in either direction you get one pickup, even if you only turn the knob a fraction of hair in either direction.
I don't know if all M2's are like this or if this one has an issue with the blend pot.
I love the tone of the M2 in passive mode with the neck pickup solo'd or both pickups together. With the preamp enabled, I have not been able to dial in a tone that I like. Instead, the tone is a bit too dark for my taste. With that being said, I do love the M2.
While a PBass have a darker tone compared to a JBass, the p5r with the tone at 100% is definitely bright enough for me. The big question for me is which strings to replace the OEM strings. Don't suggest flat-wounds as that is just not my thing. I usually use DR strings and the Pure Blues are my favorites. However, I do use Fat Beams on my StingRay 5 and I keep some High Beams around for basses that are just too dark for my taste (like the Ibanez BTB845).
Rule #1:
Crappy cell phone pic. The teal is much brighter than the photo shows.
Beautiful bass and it plays very nice with ultra low action. But, the sound is too dark. This bass will sit until I replace the preamp.
I don't know if all M2's are like this or if this one has an issue with the blend pot.
I love the tone of the M2 in passive mode with the neck pickup solo'd or both pickups together. With the preamp enabled, I have not been able to dial in a tone that I like. Instead, the tone is a bit too dark for my taste. With that being said, I do love the M2.
While a PBass have a darker tone compared to a JBass, the p5r with the tone at 100% is definitely bright enough for me. The big question for me is which strings to replace the OEM strings. Don't suggest flat-wounds as that is just not my thing. I usually use DR strings and the Pure Blues are my favorites. However, I do use Fat Beams on my StingRay 5 and I keep some High Beams around for basses that are just too dark for my taste (like the Ibanez BTB845).
Rule #1:
Crappy cell phone pic. The teal is much brighter than the photo shows.
Beautiful bass and it plays very nice with ultra low action. But, the sound is too dark. This bass will sit until I replace the preamp.
I have the Boomer Burst™ version of the P5R and love it! I put Labella Deep Talkin' Bass strings on it almost as soon as I got it in the mail. I don't know if I like the DTB's on it yet...I haven't had a lot of one on one time with it. The feel is great, just not sure about the tone yet. I may have to play around with p'up height a little bit and see if I can get the tone I'm hearing in my head.
I did lower the nut a bit on mine and did a full set up as well. I don't like a super low setup on my basses but I don't like it too high either. I've never measured the height when I set up mine...I just set the height to where I personally like it. I have 4 Sires and all of them I had to lower the nut slots. I like my string at the first fret to be about a business card thickness over the fret. Fretless, I like the string to be even a bit lower at the first fret line...within a few thousandths of the fingerboard. I tend to play a lot in the first position and if the strings are too high out of the nut, my left hand feels it.
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May we assume you checked/adjusted the truss rod before lowering your action at the bridge?
I can't see it being the nut as a likely culprit. If the rest of the set up is correct, the bass can only buzz if the nut slots were cut to deeply.
Yes, of course.
I'm going to work on the setup a bit more before I start filing down the nut. I don't like to make big adjustments to the truss rod at once. So, I want to let it set for a bit before I adjust it again.
I want my new 2024 model Sire to look like this! Headstock and all. I'll understand if they just have to increase their price to maybe $700, but I will probably pay it. 
If it's buzzing due to the nut .... Filing it down will make it buzz worse.
Not necessarily. The buzzing is coming from compensating from the nut height being to high.
I ordered a nut height gauge. When it comes in I'll measure the nut height before I make any changes.
"Compensating". So the truss rod was adjusted properly first as I mentioned, with a very slight bow?
Then you lowered the saddle until first buzz, and re-tightened the saddles slightly higher?
And your action is still high?
I wish I could see this first hand. Interesting stuff.
I didn't detect any relief in the neck at all. It was straight as a board. I backed off the truss rod a little, but I don't like to make more than a 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn on the truss rod at a time. I prefer to let it sit and settle (my preference). The saddles were adjusted to near the upper limits (raised almost as high as they would go).
As soon as I get a chance, I'll measure the string height and the nut height. I can't believe this bass passed any kind of inspection before being shipped. No worries, though, this isn't something that can't be fixed.
I set relief straight and added a shim to the neck pocket. Cut the nut deeper on the B and E on my P5. Also filed a high fret and was able to get action low.
I like the strings that were on it but replaced them with EB cobalt rounds and had to tighten the truss rod.
I like the strings that were on it but replaced them with EB cobalt rounds and had to tighten the truss rod.
Hello and happy new year.
I have played my new V5 5 string fretless for a week and I have two questions:
I have played my new V5 5 string fretless for a week and I have two questions:
- The fretboard does not feel completely flat but I have noticed that the fret lines are ever so slightly in relief to the rest of the neck, this is only noticable on the G string if you are not holding the string down firmly: is this normal in any capacity? (I haven't set up the instrument yet because I feel its set up good enough as is, my only gripe as for playability is this one, also its my first fretless so I might be doing something wrong, altough I don't think so since the other string feel normal).
- Is it normal for the fretboard to get those "micro scratches" when playing? They are VERY light scratches that seem to come from the strings touching the body while playing (this one I guess is kinda normal, and the only reason I can notice is because of the glossy fretboard).
(Pic for reference: look for them around the E string)
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Hello and happy new year.
I have played my new V5 5 string fretless for a week and I have two questions:
Full bass pic also, looks great
- The fretboard does not feel completely flat but I have noticed that the fret lines are ever so slightly in relief to the rest of the neck, this is only noticable on the G string if you are not holding the string down firmly: is this normal in any capacity? (I haven't set up the instrument yet because I feel its set up good enough as is, my only gripe as for playability is this one, also its my first fretless so I might be doing something wrong, altough I don't think so since the other string feel normal).
- Is it normal for the fretboard to get those "micro scratches" when playing? They are VERY light scratches that seem to come from the strings touching the body while playing (this one I guess is kinda normal, and the only reason I can notice is because of the glossy fretboard).
(Pic for reference: look for them around the E string)View attachment 5302184
View attachment 5302183
Wear is normal.
Those fretlines look painted?
If so, maybe they could be sanded out....
Anyone with a rosewood/ebony fretless sire know if those are painted or inlaid fret markers?
I have a maple fingerboard on my V7 Gen 2 fretless and the lines are definitely inlaid.
Pics from the one above look like there's paint bleeding, why I asked. maybe diff in version based on cost?
