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No way ... painted wouldn't last. I can't even imagine it.
I thought Sire fretless came with flatwound strings? Shouldn't leave marks in a truly hard surface. My Michael Kelly fretless came with roundwound strings. In the three weeks it took me to order Pressurewound strings for it, my fretboard was already marked up.
My Sire bass was set up fair. I was still able to get a much lower action after a proper set up.
I thought Sire fretless came with flatwound strings? Shouldn't leave marks in a truly hard surface. My Michael Kelly fretless came with roundwound strings. In the three weeks it took me to order Pressurewound strings for it, my fretboard was already marked up.
My Sire bass was set up fair. I was still able to get a much lower action after a proper set up.
It did come with flats, the scratches are VERY light tho, I kind of had an hard time getting them to show in the pic
It's more likely you're seeing where the fret line markers were dyed. Looks like the dye bled when the laquer was sprayed on the neck.
The frets are not painted, and these pics show that they are inlays, the bleeding is only really that noticeable on the 10th fret and its probably as you said, bleeding from when the laquer was sprayed on the neck.
These pics also show what's causing the problem: the inlays are not flush with the neck (higher than they should be) in the 4th to 14th fret range along the neck sides (the e, a and d string portions are flush), which is not noticable on the b string side as it is further than the g string is from the edge, while on the g string side it is noticeable while playing. (The relieved section is the grayish one).
I am considering sending back the bass to Thomann because I am not ok with needing to fix stuff like this on a new bass.
Send it back, that's just sloppy manufacturing.
Possibly this could have happened from temperature fluctuations?
Like how wood shrinking can make frets pop (My M7 from Thomann had it bad)
I suppose if the fret line inlays were made of a different type of material than the fretboard is?
Not good, either way.
Send it back! That's not even acceptable. I'd let Sire know as well.
Somewhere back in this very sub forum, I mentioned me personally purchasing a fretless bass that is designed fretless from the very blueprint up.
I was considering an ESP fretless bass, when I read where this is an issue on that bass also. But you can feel/sense every fret inlay on that bass.
Companies are taking their regular fretted necks and using them for their fretless basses, after they fill the nut slot. Not DIY style, but same principle. This is not good, due to multiple possibilities of issues.
Where an SRH500F or Warwick's neck began as a lined fretless. Where everything can be considered and spec'd from the start, to prevent these fret line issues. And this is why I've waited to get a feel for Sire fretless necks before I purchase one.
Yes, exactly! Which is why I posted directly above about the negatives of normally fretted necks when converted to fretless, without extremely cautious planning for this.
Putting it another way: My luthier made fretless bass has fret lines. BUT the luthier made sure to use square cut fret slots, and fret line wood known for the same basic characteristics of the ebony wood fretboard.
I am kinda worried about the "Please ensure that all products are returned in their original packaging, with all components and accessories and without signs of use." part of the return policy on Thomann, since I removed the plastic stickers from the pickups and pickguard, and the neck has some very light scratches from trying it out before understanding that this is not a "me" problem but a "the inlays are poor" problem.
Ill contact them tomorrow and see what can be done since its late here (10 pm).
Ill contact them tomorrow and see what can be done since its late here (10 pm).
When a composite fret line material of any kind is used, it is susceptible to uneven lifting or warping, due to indifferent materials being epoxied together.
When hardwood fret line material is wood glued into hardwood fretboard slots ... nothing is EVER going to happen negatively.
When hardwood fret line material is wood glued into hardwood fretboard slots ... nothing is EVER going to happen negatively.
I am pro players doing their own work 100% of the time but I do think if you have the funds and not the expertise, skills, tools, or time - budget for a $40-60 set up + strings for any instrument you purchase.
It can make a budget instrument play and feel unbelievable and when we are talking about the values of the Sire brand - that is where it shines. Get it dialed in.
I have a P5 and a P5R 4 string(s) and both are incredible Ps for the money.
It can make a budget instrument play and feel unbelievable and when we are talking about the values of the Sire brand - that is where it shines. Get it dialed in.
I have a P5 and a P5R 4 string(s) and both are incredible Ps for the money.
I think it's different for Thomann if you freely return an instrument you just don't bond with or if there's an objective quality issue (as you seem to face)... When I buy an instrument online which I'm not sure whether I want to keep it I certainly do not pull off any stickers and the like before I have decided for it.
For comparison: On my 1st gen V7 Fretless 4 string, the fret lines are slightly noticeable if I do concentrate on those (and possibly a little bit more raised on the G string side than on the E string side), but it difficult to tell whether the lines are a tad above or below the fretboard... I do not notice that at all when playing... and I have never inspected that before I've read your post.
The original Chrome flats I still use leave slight wear on the board but probably only in the finish, not the wood itself.
I ran to my v5 fretless and checked but it's ok thank god. M5 fretless incoming, that's going to go under the microscope. And now I'm GASsing for yet another Sire bass. That U5 looks pret-ty good. I'd like a Sire P. And it's a shortscale! Surely I could use one of those (stop looking at my other PJs and the Motion-B AND the Cardinal, technically they're medium-scale anyway)! 
Ok, I've completed the following:
- Truss rod adjusted to .008" of relief.
- String action set to between .075 to .065 (measured at the 12th fret).
- Nut height was measured as followed:
- B string: .038 - should be ~ .022
- E string: .038 - should be ~ .020
- A string: .030 - should be ~ .020
- D string: .032 - should be ~ .018
- G string: .026- should be ~ .018
So, now the question becomes, do I return the bass or pay a luthier to fix it.
I shim most basses I buy. I use painters tape. Easiest method I have found over the years.
