Has anyone ever made a small spray booth in a corner of thier shop. Any ideas any pics re: fans, filters equipment etc. Or where and how do you spray your finishes.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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Small spray booth
- Thread starter Greenman
- Start date
get a BIG cardboard box (frig box will work)...
put two corregated hoses in it...
fan to have adjustible bypass damper...fan to be located some distance from the booth.
fan is to BLOW air in, not suck (why? because you don't want potentially explosive air mixture passing over a sparking motor, that's why).
exhaust hose to the outside.
fit the box with a hanging bar...a plexiglas (perspex) window, and sleeved holes for your hands...
seal everything well with duct tape...support as necessary
should last you a long time...
have fun.
put two corregated hoses in it...
fan to have adjustible bypass damper...fan to be located some distance from the booth.
fan is to BLOW air in, not suck (why? because you don't want potentially explosive air mixture passing over a sparking motor, that's why).
exhaust hose to the outside.
fit the box with a hanging bar...a plexiglas (perspex) window, and sleeved holes for your hands...
seal everything well with duct tape...support as necessary
should last you a long time...
have fun.
Genius. I just got a 52 in. TV I all ready have the box right under my a**.
Thanks
I'll have to put a filter between the bypass and the booth otherwise it will blow dirt in ya/no/maybe?
You really want to draw air through a spray booth rather than force air into it. By forcing air into the booth, you are pressurizing the booth resulting in a dirty finish, even with filters as it will circulate the overspray.
Get yourself a exhaust fan that is pully driven and install this on the exit side to draw air through the booth. This will eliminate the electricity from the flamable air flow.
You need a filter on the inlet side to keep dust from entering the booth, and on the exhaust side to trap the overspray. The exhaust fan should be mounted a minimum of 3 ft. down wind from the exhaust side filter to create a vortex so the filter will trap the solids (overspray) and have better draw.
Good luck.
Get yourself a exhaust fan that is pully driven and install this on the exit side to draw air through the booth. This will eliminate the electricity from the flamable air flow.
You need a filter on the inlet side to keep dust from entering the booth, and on the exhaust side to trap the overspray. The exhaust fan should be mounted a minimum of 3 ft. down wind from the exhaust side filter to create a vortex so the filter will trap the solids (overspray) and have better draw.
Good luck.
budman
Commercial User
- Oct 7, 2004
- 1,785
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- Owner/Builder of LeCompte Electric Bass
You can build a simple wooden frame out of 2x2's and wrap it in clear pastic (staples). Build it as big as you need it so you can stand in it and hold and hang a few basses. The clear plastic will let the light in. Build it with three sides and a roof. Leave one side open. Get a cheap high speed box fan and duct tape a cheap a/c filter to the intake side of the fan. Put it on the floor at open side of the booth. Face it so the fan blows out. This will suck the over spray out of the booth but won't be strong enough to suck dust into the booth.
With a negative-pressure (fan pulling) setup, air will find its way in thru any tiny holes and cracks you missed. With this air comes dust. With a positive-pressure (fan pushing) setup, air will be going out these holes. There will be just the one path for air coming in, and you have control over the dust in that path. That's the way Intel does their silicon chip manufacturing - positive pressure filtration. Their demands are MUCH higher than ours - a single speck of dust could cost them 10s of thousands of dollars.
I'd agree... push air in, just like your home furnace does. A Shop-Vac reversed to blow will work just fine, and you can go buy a furnace filter and modify it. Fold it in half to double its thickness, build a quick frame out of cardboard or maybe simple pine scants, and a cardboard funnel to "open" the hose up to a square opening.
Lemme draw up an example for ya... hold on....
Lemme draw up an example for ya... hold on....
- Jun 6, 2004
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- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Cool thread. I have been considering setting up a spray room in my new shop. Just not sure I want to yet.....t
Okay, here ya go...
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Start with the diameter of the hose fitting of your Shop-Vac. You better have a Shop-Vac. If not, I revoke your Man Card!
Find/make a cardboard tube that fits snug inside or outside of your hose end. Cut a square that's slightly larger than the tube, and cut a hole for the tube. Duck tape and hot glue it together. Hot glue is to make sure the corners are sealed. Those always leak, no matter how much duck tape you use.
Make four trapezoids for the walls of the funnel. The top edge should be the length of one of the edges of the square with the hole. Bottom edge should be as long as your furnace filter's edges when folded in half. Duck tape and hot glue, then tape the folded filter to the bottom of the giant trapezoid funnel.
Cut the hole in the side of your fridge/HDTV box, so the hole's about 1" smaller around the edges than your filtered funnel. Me, I'd just duck tape the funnel right over the hole. You, you might want it removable, so go get some of that sticky window weather stripping, and make a gasket for the filtered funnel to squeeze against. Then, some long 1/4" carriage bolts and wing nuts, poke holes around the outside edge and screw it together. Maybe 8 bolts, two on each side.
For the above-mentioned arm-holes, take a ratty pair of jeans, cut the legs off, duck tape work gloves to the ankle cuffs, and duct tape the thighs to holes in the front wall of the box.
For the window, go get a cheap-o piece of 12x24 plexiglass, and, you guessed it, duck tape and hot glue.
Funny thing... this pretty much replicates my buddy's sandblasting box that he just got before Christmas. He's gonna laugh his butt off when I make this in the spring for my project! He'll want one for painting all his hot rod parts!
EDIT: I'd highly recommend a refrigerator box cuz it's as tall as you are, and certainly tall enough to hang a bass inside with clearance. Also, their bottoms/tops are double-layered cardboard and rigid enough to hold the weight of a hanging bass in the center. Not so sure about an HDTV box. Might want to wrap a wire coat hanger around a piece of wood that's long enough to reach the edges of the top, punch a hole, and hang the wire down inside.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Start with the diameter of the hose fitting of your Shop-Vac. You better have a Shop-Vac. If not, I revoke your Man Card!
Find/make a cardboard tube that fits snug inside or outside of your hose end. Cut a square that's slightly larger than the tube, and cut a hole for the tube. Duck tape and hot glue it together. Hot glue is to make sure the corners are sealed. Those always leak, no matter how much duck tape you use.Make four trapezoids for the walls of the funnel. The top edge should be the length of one of the edges of the square with the hole. Bottom edge should be as long as your furnace filter's edges when folded in half. Duck tape and hot glue, then tape the folded filter to the bottom of the giant trapezoid funnel.
Cut the hole in the side of your fridge/HDTV box, so the hole's about 1" smaller around the edges than your filtered funnel. Me, I'd just duck tape the funnel right over the hole. You, you might want it removable, so go get some of that sticky window weather stripping, and make a gasket for the filtered funnel to squeeze against. Then, some long 1/4" carriage bolts and wing nuts, poke holes around the outside edge and screw it together. Maybe 8 bolts, two on each side.
For the above-mentioned arm-holes, take a ratty pair of jeans, cut the legs off, duck tape work gloves to the ankle cuffs, and duct tape the thighs to holes in the front wall of the box.
For the window, go get a cheap-o piece of 12x24 plexiglass, and, you guessed it, duck tape and hot glue.
Funny thing... this pretty much replicates my buddy's sandblasting box that he just got before Christmas. He's gonna laugh his butt off when I make this in the spring for my project! He'll want one for painting all his hot rod parts!
EDIT: I'd highly recommend a refrigerator box cuz it's as tall as you are, and certainly tall enough to hang a bass inside with clearance. Also, their bottoms/tops are double-layered cardboard and rigid enough to hold the weight of a hanging bass in the center. Not so sure about an HDTV box. Might want to wrap a wire coat hanger around a piece of wood that's long enough to reach the edges of the top, punch a hole, and hang the wire down inside.
Thanks for all the great tips. I've decided to push filtered air and use my shop vac and furnace filters. I looked at my TV box and will use it also(nice heavy construction). I have glass to let light in and a stand for it to sit on. An old rain coat for sleeves and rubber gloves.
Off to the duck tape store - post pics tonite hopefully.
Off to the duck tape store - post pics tonite hopefully.
Here is what I came up with so far. Push filtered air in thru the side and filter air out the bottom. Light thru the glass on top. Will build the front tommorrow.
- Jun 6, 2004
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
Very interesting. There was a guy over on the fender forum that used to do a lot of spraying and he built a device that you bolted the body to via the neck mount holes. It held the bass horizontally and had a crank so you could turn the bass as you were spraying it. Sort of like a rotisserie. I believe it could lock in the 4 positions so the part you were spraying would always be horizontal to the ground to avoid runs. Has anybody built something like this? Also what are you spraying mostly? I have been using minwax gloss poly. Trying to spray lacquer in central Florida is a real hit and miss operation because of the humidity.
PIMP. Mutha-truckin P-I-M-P. That's the way to go! I love the light window above. Excellent idea.
The body rotisserie idea is pretty good. I think I'll have to hang mine when I do it cuz it'll be a through-neck, but I can build a rig of some sort to hold it and turn it from above.
The filter over the exiting air is also good. Keeps your floor from getting coated with paint. Furnace filters are cheap and disposable. My company's spray booth is a huge sheet metal room with one wall completely covered in furnace filters, with an enormous wind machine outside it. So this is just a mini version of it.
So far so good! Take a pic of your bass sitting inside it before and after you spray it!
The body rotisserie idea is pretty good. I think I'll have to hang mine when I do it cuz it'll be a through-neck, but I can build a rig of some sort to hold it and turn it from above.
The filter over the exiting air is also good. Keeps your floor from getting coated with paint. Furnace filters are cheap and disposable. My company's spray booth is a huge sheet metal room with one wall completely covered in furnace filters, with an enormous wind machine outside it. So this is just a mini version of it.
So far so good! Take a pic of your bass sitting inside it before and after you spray it!
Man what a neat thread. I thought I was the only one to think of this type of stuff for the small shop. I've designed but not yet built a different take on the "pressurized" spray booth. I wanted to do something without spending the extra money for explosion proof fans motors and the like. I knew I could get whopping amounts of volume without the expensive motors and that guided my design. So, I designed a booth that uses high volume fans and venture action (I think that's the right word) to make a downdraft paint booth that is perfectly safe and fits between the wall studs of a standard shop. I'll put up a diagram here in a minute - soon as I draw one!
Wait a minute
Wait a minute
I was thinking you might have something to contribute on this!
How do you use a venturi to pressurize a booth? I'm only aware of them using airflow to create low pressure, or a volume draw, at a side port.
How do you use a venturi to pressurize a booth? I'm only aware of them using airflow to create low pressure, or a volume draw, at a side port.
Hey, I didn't say it was really innovative, just convenient
The idea is for there to be 3 ways air can flow through the system. The first is the high volume blowers on the top of the booth. These suck clean filtered air from outside the shop and push it through angled ports on the sides of the booth down through a trapdoor in the floor. The second air entry is the filter above the spray area. Shop air is drawn through this filter past the target and down through the floor. The third air entry is a filtered panel on the door of the booth - tuned in size to provide the best draw past the operator and into the front of the booth. The air flow comes from on top and inside the building and is vented out under the shop floor.
May I have a last cigarette?
Hey, I didn't say it was really innovative, just convenient
The idea is for there to be 3 ways air can flow through the system. The first is the high volume blowers on the top of the booth. These suck clean filtered air from outside the shop and push it through angled ports on the sides of the booth down through a trapdoor in the floor. The second air entry is the filter above the spray area. Shop air is drawn through this filter past the target and down through the floor. The third air entry is a filtered panel on the door of the booth - tuned in size to provide the best draw past the operator and into the front of the booth. The air flow comes from on top and inside the building and is vented out under the shop floor.
May I have a last cigarette?
I see where your going with that setup. Definately lots of volume considering one of those type of fans is enough to move the air in my house.
Hmmm, interesting idea. Sort of like a venturi, sort of not. Have you ever seen something like this working? The possible hitch is that unlike a venturi, a) you don't have a tapered exit funnel, which reduces drag; rather you have an exit cavity, blocked by a filter; b) the side port is huge compared to the "main" flow pipe. If it doesn't work it will be because the chamber is simply pressurized by the airflow, rather than being "vacuumized."
