I do like the reverse.I also like the 4+1. You had 3+2 in your original, are you cool with the 4+1?
I've always had 3+2 so, it's what I'm used to. 4+1 is different, as is reverse, for me. I'm down for some strange, though.
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So, I've Got a Design and a Luthier... Thanks TB
- Thread starter stepswork4me
- Start date
I've always had 3+2 so, it's what I'm used to. 4+1 is different, as is reverse, for me. I'm down for some strange, though.
mikeyswood
Inactive
Rickett Customs
Commercial User
Deposit made!!!!! ....and Martinson off to J. Kennedy Guitar Repair, TB'er ModulusAcacia for a defret. 
mikeyswood
Inactive
We'll keep this open for all to see the process all the way from thought to finish.
Chris: A few Q's:
Nut width?
Nut material?
Which Hipshot tuners?
Body thickness?
Bridge spacing?
Truss rod(s)?
Chris: A few Q's:
Nut width?
Nut material?
Which Hipshot tuners?
Body thickness?
Bridge spacing?
Truss rod(s)?
Nut width?
1.75"
Nut material?
I was originally thinking graphite but brass is sounding good in conjunction with the brass bridge. Any thoughts?
Which Hipshot tuners?
1/2" Y
Body thickness?
I've never considered it.... hmmm..... Any suggestions?
Bridge spacing?
I figured it would have to be 19mm with the Nordy Big Split at the bridge?
Truss rod(s)?[/QUOTE]
Dual Action... is it possible to have access at the body in a neck through?
mikeyswood
Inactive
I prefer brass for the nut material because I can have it plated gold with the rest of the hardware.
I prefer 1.25 to 1.5 for the body. Fenders are 1.75 and most everyone has copied that.
3/4" is the default for the Nordy. If you wanted something different we could spec that when ordering.
I prefer to have body access for the truss. Better wood at the nut, and a more decorative cover is possible.
I prefer 1.25 to 1.5 for the body. Fenders are 1.75 and most everyone has copied that.
3/4" is the default for the Nordy. If you wanted something different we could spec that when ordering.
I prefer to have body access for the truss. Better wood at the nut, and a more decorative cover is possible.
I prefer brass for the nut material because I can have it plated gold with the rest of the hardware.
I prefer 1.25 to 1.5 for the body. Fenders are 1.75 and most everyone has copied that.
3/4" is the default for the Nordy. If you wanted something different we could spec that when ordering.
I prefer to have body access for the truss. Better wood at the nut, and a more decorative cover is possible.
Cool, let's go with brass. That should pop aesthetically and add to the sound.
1.25 should be sleek and cut down a little on weight. As long as that's not an issue with the upper horn, I'm cool with that.
The default 3/4" will be just fine.
Let's go with body access. That makes the adjustment easier while strung, IME.
Peeking in through a knot-hole in the fence...
Slingshot hangin' outta my back pocket...
Aunt Polly's fence can wait - I wanna see this bass get built.
Slingshot hangin' outta my back pocket...
Aunt Polly's fence can wait - I wanna see this bass get built.
I REALLY think this gonna be one HELLUVA bass. I know that it's gonna be some time until this is in my hands, but I'm more excited than a ADHD kid at Disneyland.
mikeyswood
Inactive
1.25 is a good way to reduce the weight. The one that you held of mine was 1.25. The Nordy pre will fit easily into that size as well.
Do you want a matching back?
Do you want a matching back?
A few questions on this:
Would the matching back only cover the wings or would it cover the entire back of the bass?
Would more wood need to be ordered?
Sorry, but I must be somewhat mindful. How will this affect cost?
Would this affect the sound?
mikeyswood
Inactive
Entirely up to you. Your drawing is of book wings so I would plan to book the back of the wings as well. We could do a book to center front or back or both.
I was planning on buying a billet and sawing my own tops for both of our instruments. My first thought is that I can get enough from the billet with my recent band saw upgrades to not effect price. It may require thinner tops, though. I [DEL]wouldn't[/DEL] woodn't know until I have the wood cut and planed. We can keep that option in the air until I get the billet in.
The sound wood have a lot more Mid-Hump®.
I was planning on buying a billet and sawing my own tops for both of our instruments. My first thought is that I can get enough from the billet with my recent band saw upgrades to not effect price. It may require thinner tops, though. I [DEL]wouldn't[/DEL] woodn't know until I have the wood cut and planed. We can keep that option in the air until I get the billet in.
The sound wood have a lot more Mid-Hump®.
Mike,
I'm having a thought
(Look out!!!!). What do you think of doing a split fretboard? Something like this...
... only using the lines from the bass clef you used to form the curves of the body? My thought is to link several of the clefs together to create a split line down the board and to inlay one solid clef on the board. Let me know what ya think. If this strikes you, you can send me that clef you used and I can draw it up.
I'm having a thought
(Look out!!!!). What do you think of doing a split fretboard? Something like this...... only using the lines from the bass clef you used to form the curves of the body? My thought is to link several of the clefs together to create a split line down the board and to inlay one solid clef on the board. Let me know what ya think. If this strikes you, you can send me that clef you used and I can draw it up.
