• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

So let's build a bass.

Anyone that questions why it's called a "Precision" bass needs only to look through this thread. The workmanship alone qualifies its name. So much tedious work involved. You must have the patience of a saint.

Thanks again for sharing your work here!

Nice variation on a classic, sir!

Really really nice work. That's a very nice piece of poplar. I'm told a lot of poplar does not look anywhere that good. And of course with your craftsmanship it looks even better!

Thanks guys!!!
 
Got the neck sanded to 400griy which means we're ready for finish.

First I thought I'd mix up a little amber for the neck.

IMG_7148.JPG


Amber and a little brown in some alcohol.

Tinted.

IMG_7150.JPG


IMG_7149.JPG


Doesn't look like much but after a little oil and beeswax we get a nice amount of warmth to the maple and a little more pop from the grain.

IMG_7158.JPG


IMG_7159.JPG


IMG_7160.JPG


IMG_7162.JPG


IMG_7163.JPG


I'll burnish the finish lightly after 24 hours and give it another 2 coats.

Then I'll add the logo, polish up the frets and oil and buff the fretboard.
 
Anyone remember Bob Ross?

He used to have that rad painting show where he'd do a landscape in 30 minutes.

Normally he'd have it perfect at minute 25 and then he'd throw in a courage test, and draw a line through the middle of the painting and everyone would be like "what did you do?!?!" Then in the next five minutes he'd turn it into an awesome tree and make the painting even more awesome.

Here's my courage test.

I brand my logo into my headstocks. Burned right in. Only have one take to do it and get it right.

10 seconds could totally ruin this neck.

IMG_7170.JPG
IMG_7171.JPG


Luckily it worked out this time.
 
What is the failure (not so happy accident) rate, hopefully very low.

Yeah I admit I botched the first neck I did with the brand lol

I've gotten a lot of practice since. I usually do 4 or 5 on scrap first just to make sure my technique is good.

I have a separate temp control too which helps, and I have a template I use to position it in the right area.
 
Last edited:
hey but what's with the paint finish? i believe you have forgotten to hang stuff here... wood looks really nice, ill see the paint finish just for educational reading.

Ask and you shall receive.

I use waterbased stuff cause I ain't got no fancy spray booth and I like my lungs.

General finishes makes a faux milk paint in a cool variety of colors that work pretty good for guitars and basses.

Here's my tips. The stuff is pretty thick out of the can. You can thin it with water and it'll work fine. I actually thin it with their high performance top coat. The top coat adds some durability and thins the stuff out nice so you can spray.

IMG_7172.JPG


Before we spray I prewet the body and steam up the grain.

Body gets sanded to 220grit after steaming.

IMG_7174.JPG


Here's my spray unit.

IMG_7175.JPG


Earlex sprayport 6300. Turbine system like the harbor freight deal. This one is a 3 stage I think so it atomizes a little nicer.

First coat.

IMG_7176.JPG


After 3 coats.

IMG_7178.JPG


Looks good but the poplar still soaks up a bit. Grain gets a little raised.

IMG_7179.JPG


Just knock it down with 320 grit real quick.

IMG_7180.JPG


Shouldn't have any issues with raising the grain after that.

In fact the 4th coat is looking nice and smooth already.

IMG_7182.JPG


And yes, should have worn gloves if you can see my hand in the last pic lol.

The paint comes off with some soap and water so no big.
 
Sweet! Love that color. That Earlex looks like a big upgrade over my Cheap HF gun, but I only plan on a few painted basses, I tend to like oil finishes. I finally got opaque black to work by mixing Stewmac Colortone black into Varathane, which seems similar to General Finishes in use. It goes on pretty well. Might have to try that milk paint too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thisSNsucks
Ask and you shall receive.

I use waterbased stuff cause I ain't got no fancy spray booth and I like my lungs.

General finishes makes a faux milk paint in a cool variety of colors that work pretty good for guitars and basses.

Here's my tips. The stuff is pretty thick out of the can. You can thin it with water and it'll work fine. I actually thin it with their high performance top coat. The top coat adds some durability and thins the stuff out nice so you can spray.

View attachment 2769564

Before we spray I prewet the body and steam up the grain.

Body gets sanded to 220grit after steaming.

View attachment 2769565

Here's my spray unit.

View attachment 2769566

Earlex sprayport 6300. Turbine system like the harbor freight deal. This one is a 3 stage I think so it atomizes a little nicer.

First coat.

View attachment 2769567

After 3 coats.

View attachment 2769568

Looks good but the poplar still soaks up a bit. Grain gets a little raised.

View attachment 2769569

Just knock it down with 320 grit real quick.

View attachment 2769571

Shouldn't have any issues with raising the grain after that.

In fact the 4th coat is looking nice and smooth already.

View attachment 2769572

And yes, should have worn gloves if you can see my hand in the last pic lol.

The paint comes off with some soap and water so no big.


I'm liking that. I finally feel like I'm starting to get the Parks finish and coloring that down or I might try the General stuff. Who knows, maybe I'll try it anyway. Does it clean out of the gun with water?

Do you clear coat over the color? How long does that finish need to dry before sanding?