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So let's build a bass.

The only truly durable finish I've seen on a guitar was the two-part epoxy stuff on my Steinberger XP-2, which is black epoxy over rock maple, bulletproof. Poly holds up pretty good too, but seems brittle. It star cracks if you whack it. I don't get nitro, your skin acid dissolves it over time, and I like mine pretty long-term.
 
We'll the top coat is poly which is pretty durable but not bulletproof.

They say you can even use it on floors so it must be pretty tough, certainly more so than nitro I'd imagine.

I should be done with color today/tomorrow. I'll post picks before I spray the clear.
 
So back to this thing.

Unfortunately my days off and good days to paint were not jiving but we are in the clear coat stage.

Looks more blue than it is but you can see the shine.

This was just a first light coat of gloss.


I'll lay down a few more coats and then do a bit of leveling before the final group of clear coats.

IMG_7236.JPG


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Other than good ventilation, gloves, and a mask, any tips on wet sanding with naphtha?
IMG_7281.JPG


I use a small and large sanding block plus a round one for the edges of the body. I tend to just soak a rag with naphtha and wipe it on the body, sand, wipe again, etc until the shiny spots are gone.
 
does the neck fit perfectly on the neck pocket? is there any troubles besides aestetics with making a not perfect hole? i know that the screw holes of the neck and the pocket have to be straight, but im sure the pocket i'll make wont be perfect for the neck...

Do you mean because of the paint? It’s pretty minimal. Neck sits pretty well in the pocket.

In any event we are sanded and buffed.
Customer was cool with keeping this more of a semi gloss. So we rubbed out to 1200 and then hit it with medium compound.

I kind of like this as it looks a little worn in but not aged, and you don’t have to worry much about fingerprints lol

Mocked up. Just gonna shield the cavities and put it together.

88E0D68B-A918-494F-A315-57070616255E.jpeg
 
Do you mean because of the paint? It’s pretty minimal. Neck sits pretty well in the pocket.

In any event we are sanded and buffed.
Customer was cool with keeping this more of a semi gloss. So we rubbed out to 1200 and then hit it with medium compound.

I kind of like this as it looks a little worn in but not aged, and you don’t have to worry much about fingerprints lol

Mocked up. Just gonna shield the cavities and put it together.

View attachment 2798247

Satin finishes are nice - looks good! :thumbsup:
 
Thanks!

This one:
Whiteside Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit

Go up cut, 2" cutting length, 1/2" diameter. I still only use it to shave off the smallest bit left over from the robo sander with maple.

On my body blanks I've used it on all types of woods without tear out without robo sanding first.

Pricey but worth it.

Sorry to jump so far back in the thread. You're doing great work! Do you think it would work for me to
  1. Robosand very close to my template
  2. Use a top bearing, 1/2" diameter straight cut router bit to do the front half of the body
  3. Flip the body over and use a 1/2" diameter flush trim router bit to finish the rest of the thickness
In my head this will work, and I can use my existing router bits without spending $100 on a big specialized bit that I'll rarely use. But I mostly have experience with routing softer woods like pine. My body will be alder which is harder but not too hard.
 

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