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So let's build a bass.

I'm liking that. I finally feel like I'm starting to get the Parks finish and coloring that down or I might try the General stuff. Who knows, maybe I'll try it anyway. Does it clean out of the gun with water?

Do you clear coat over the color? How long does that finish need to dry before sanding?

Yes, it will get a clear over the color. I'll lay down a few more color coats though.

Depending on the humidity you can usually dry sand in 30 mins. This waterbased stuff works fast.

After the clear coats I'll let it cure for a week or 2 before wet sanding.

More on that later though.
 
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Hey @thisSNsucks, you mentioned wet sanding the WB clearcoat, any concern about softening the finish? All the Youtube videos I've seen on WB finishes seem to suggest dry sanding only, but that limits how high you can go with grits before buffing. All the really fine grits are wet/dry. The WB finish thread seemed to draw the same conclusion. I have Mirka Abralon sanding pads up to 4000 grit, but that's as high as they go. Curious to see your sanding/buffing process if you don't mind posting some details.
Using water based products for instrument finishing, Target Coatings 9000 6000 and Varathane WB
 
Hey @thisSNsucks, you mentioned wet sanding the WB clearcoat, any concern about softening the finish? All the Youtube videos I've seen on WB finishes seem to suggest dry sanding only, but that limits how high you can go with grits before buffing. All the really fine grits are wet/dry. The WB finish thread seemed to draw the same conclusion. I have Mirka Abralon sanding pads up to 4000 grit, but that's as high as they go. Curious to see your sanding/buffing process if you don't mind posting some details.
Using water based products for instrument finishing, Target Coatings 9000 6000 and Varathane WB

General finishes actually says you can wetsand their finishes.

The important thing is not to use water.

They recommend naphtha but I really prefer using mineral oil.

This isn't their high performance like I'm using for this build, but their enduro var which is excellent for natural finishes as it ambers the wood nicely. I wetsanded this to 800 and then buffed by hand. I could have easily gotten it a little glossier but that wasn't what I was going for.

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I have a phone number for Rustoleum tech support, curious if they have an opinion about naphtha vs mineral oil for wetsanding Varathane. Gonna be shooting colorcoat on mine this weekend. I’m going to dry sand clearcoat up to 4000 grit with Mirka abralon, but above that I’ll have to wetsand somehow. Naphtha evaporates, but how do you remove the mineral oil?
 
I have a phone number for Rustoleum tech support, curious if they have an opinion about naphtha vs mineral oil for wetsanding Varathane. Gonna be shooting colorcoat on mine this weekend. I’m going to dry sand clearcoat up to 4000 grit with Mirka abralon, but above that I’ll have to wetsand somehow. Naphtha evaporates, but how do you remove the mineral oil?
I used Naphtha to clean off the mineral oil. Had I known about using Naphtha as a wet-sand I would have tried it. Down side of using mineral oil is that it makes a mess.
 
I used Naphtha to clean off the mineral oil. Had I known about using Naphtha as a wet-sand I would have tried it. Down side of using mineral oil is that it makes a mess.

Yeah it makes a mess, but I clean it off with naphtha easy enough and work in small sections.

The reason I don't like using naphtha is fumes (minor but still) and it evaporates quickly.
 
The various standards for grit numbers further compounds my confusion, I got burned on that with Micro-mesh, the numbers don't correspond to standard wet/dry sandpaper. I don't know if the Abralon corresponds either. If it does, maybe I just dry sand up to 4000 and then go to Mcguiars? Sorry to hijack the thread with this novice finish stuff, but it's all still a bit mysterious to me, particularly with WB finishes where there isn't much track record of techniques to draw from.