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Sodering question...

Diplowmatt

Diplowmatt

Jun 10, 2011
226
5
Memphis, TN
#1
Heya, I'm new here but I've been reading the forums for a while. I had a question. I'm replacing the pups in my essex bass with bartolini 9j1's. This is the first sodering I've ever done and I'm wondering...maybe I'm not applying the soder properly. I've tried a few times and the grounding wires just...slip off. I got one to stick...and when trying the neck pup grounding wire, the bridge pup grounding wire just slipped off. Any suggestions?
 
#2
Heat the surface briefly before you apply the solder, make sure you're using a low wattage iron, like 25 watts, so it doesn't get too hot and can damage electronics. It comes with lots of practice, but depending on what type of surface you're putting it on, you may need a better kind of solder.
 
#4
It helps to scruff up the surface of the pot you're soldering to just a bit and to heat the casing of the pot an get some solder to stick to it before applying the ground wire.
That way you're not trying to hold a wire while also trying to tin the back of the pot.
 
#7
Lo-E said:
It helps to scruff up the surface of the pot you're soldering to just a bit and to heat the casing of the pot an get some solder to stick to it before applying the ground wire.
That way you're not trying to hold a wire while also trying to tin the back of the pot.
Click to expand...

Probably a good idea...I just hope all of this works. I replaced the bridge already with a gotoh 201 and that just slipped in so that was pretty painless. Replaced the pickguard ( had to dremel a lil bit) but that was pretty painless. This part's a pain in the ass lol
 
#11
and you want a stronger iron, not a weaker one.

the low-wattage iron doesn't get the spot hot enough fast enough, so you cook the whole component before the solder ever melts.

a stronger iron will melt the stuff faster, so you're done before the rest of the metal gets too hot.
 
#12
Radioshack can be your friend(sometimes) if there's one near you. Get some 60/40 rosin core flux. 30W irons are alright. If you start getting into this more, I suggest getting a 35W Weller brand iron. I've had one for the past two years and it's great. I've wired numerous guitars, basses, amps, and other projects with it. I'm taking Electrical Engineering in High School. Wellers can take a beating.
 
#13
watch this video from seymour duncan;

see how he holds the iron against the part, and how the solder melts the instant he brings it to the spot? if yours isn't doing that, then your iron isn't hot enough, isn't clean and pre-tinned (already covered with a shiny layer of melted solder) or your solder itself is too thick or the wrong kind.

also, this video hipped me to using a bigger, fatter tip on the iron, for more thermal momentum and easier soldering.
 
#14
Diplowmatt said:
Heya, I'm new here but I've been reading the forums for a while. I had a question. I'm replacing the pups in my essex bass with bartolini 9j1's. This is the first sodering I've ever done and I'm wondering...maybe I'm not applying the soder properly. I've tried a few times and the grounding wires just...slip off. I got one to stick...and when trying the neck pup grounding wire, the bridge pup grounding wire just slipped off. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I do NOT recommend soldering grounds to the back of the pots! (Yes I know SX may have already done that) It heats the pots and can damage them, plus it means you are relying on a crimped back for connection. Absolute best is to use grounding lugs that fit around the pot threaded mount if you can find them.

Also do NOT use any but 60/40 rosin cored electronic solder! Machine shop solder is probably higher temperature and uncored or WORSE which is acid core which will destroy electronics! DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER OR ACID SOLDERING FLUX UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! (There are some that are used in electronics but takes special skills and circumstances to use.) Failure to use them properly results in electronic destruction (corrosion) over time.

Soldering to wire terminals (either on pots, jack, or lugs) is not a big deal with 60/40 rosin cored electronic solder, but be sure to not overheat (or use too large an iron or anything too hot (soldering gun) ). Overheating again can damage parts.

This is not difficult stuff but some care and practice is needed.
 
#15
walterw said:
watch this video from seymour duncan;

see how he holds the iron against the part, and how the solder melts the instant he brings it to the spot? if yours isn't doing that, then your iron isn't hot enough, isn't clean and pre-tinned (already covered with a shiny layer of melted solder) or your solder itself is too thick or the wrong kind.

also, this video hipped me to using a bigger, fatter tip on the iron, for more thermal momentum and easier soldering.
Click to expand...

+1 good advice. i dont think the 30 watt iron will get the pot case hot enough to solder properly. must use a flux solder like rosin core.
 
#18
bassbenj said:
It heats the pots and can damage them, plus it means you are relying on a crimped back for connection.
Click to expand...

If you heat a pot hot enough to damage it, you can damage it a lot faster over-heating the terminal.

By saying you are relaying on a crimped connection assumes that you are not going to run a wire from the back of the pot to ground? You never rely on the pot touching foil or a control plate as a ground. That mechanical contact can and will oxidize over time.

Solder a wire to back of every pot, to the next pot, and then to ground.
 
#20
You have to use some sort of flux, either in the solder wire or as something added secondarily. Usually there is enough in the wire, however, if you are using something from a machine shop it could be that it is not a flux cored wire. Make sure your tip is clean, ie bright and shiny when up to temp. Make sure the surface you are trying to solder to is clean, this is where flux helps.
 

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