Double Bass Somefingerboard advise needed

[quarternote]

I have come into possession of a quite old double bass, probably European mfg, and it need a lot of work. Basically, I first want to get it playable.
The bridge is too high, so I am going to make it an adjustable bridge. The nut is too high, and I can lower that, I have done quite a bit of my own work on electrics. The fingerboard is another issue. It is basically flat, with an upward bow of about 1/16 inch or so, just in front of the nut. I plan to take that out with refitting or replacement of the nut.
I have Traeger's book and he recommends about 1/8 inch concave arc to the board measured at the octive. Looking at other basses that are played, this seems like a lot. I am planning to plane the board to get about 1/16 at the octive, after lowering the bridge to have about 5/16 inch at the end of the fingerboard. I am a US trained machinist and usually work to inch specs, easy to convert.
I kind of always like to start small in removing material, as more can be taken off, but it is hard to put material back. I should also mention steel strings.
I will try to get some pix up too.
Thanks
Thoughts appreciated.

 

[SAlcott]

Double bass fingerboards are far more complex than those on bass guitars. The most likely result of a first time DIY fingerboard job will be a trip to a double bass luthier for corrective work (if you're lucky) or a nice new fingerboard at substantially more money than having it done properly to start with.

 

[Carl Hillman]

I have come into possession of a quite old double bass, probably European mfg, and it need a lot of work. Basically, I first want to get it playable.
The bridge is too high, so I am going to make it an adjustable bridge. The nut is too high, and I can lower that, I have done quite a bit of my own work on electrics. The fingerboard is another issue. It is basically flat, with an upward bow of about 1/16 inch or so, just in front of the nut. I plan to take that out with refitting or replacement of the nut.
I have Traeger's book and he recommends about 1/8 inch concave arc to the board measured at the octive. Looking at other basses that are played, this seems like a lot. I am planning to plane the board to get about 1/16 at the octive, after lowering the bridge to have about 5/16 inch at the end of the fingerboard. I am a US trained machinist and usually work to inch specs, easy to convert.
I kind of always like to start small in removing material, as more can be taken off, but it is hard to put material back. I should also mention steel strings.
I will try to get some pix up too.
Thanks
Thoughts appreciated.

Not to discourage you, but I've seen experienced luthiers here refer to dressing a fingerboard as a "black art"...which I took as a statement that it's something that needs to be learned over time by trial and error.

There do seem to be many interconnected variables that have to be precisely balanced to get a nice smooth board that allows every note on it to speak properly. Just saying, if it's a nice-ish piece of ebony, you might want to practice on something else first or just take it to a luthier.

 

[oldNewbie]

... And if you are anywhere within driving distance of Madison , you'll do best to go see Vince at Doublebass workshop. Practical, pleasant, and very nice fingerboard work, He's done three for me. Three thumbs up, if I had an extra.