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Something deadening strings

#21
There are complete instructional videos for setting up your bass on the Warwick website. You can find them here: Invalid Link Removed They are quite informative, and sometimes having a visual aid is quite useful. Please let me know if there is anything I can assist you with. Thanks!
 
#22
socialleper said:
I purchased a used German made Warwick $$ 5-string a few months a go and noticed that no matter what strings I put on it, the strings always sound a little dead.
You know that shimmering metallic snap you get out of brand new set of steel round wounds when you dig in? It doesn't do that.
I've tried tapered and non-tapered, a few different brands, had the set up done at a reputable luthier, but I just can't get the same ring out of it that may other basses get.
Is there something in a setup or design of a bass that cause this, like bad saddles or nut? Is there something inherent in Warwick basses that just makes them "darker" sounding, even without being plugged in?
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Its not the saddles. When I got my corvette, it was missing the B string inner saddle thingy (watch out big words) and I didn't even notice it when I was playing it until I looked at it.

Have you tried taking apart the bridge and cleaning it completely and making sure its well secured to the bass? Also check the nut and make sure the strings are seating all the way in the slots. Sometimes weird things happens with basses that from what I could tell, can't be explained. I played a fender jazz at a local music shop, and the a string sounded exactly as you describe. Everything was in perfect working order. Although in that case it may have been loose string windings. This isn't the case with you.

I'm willing to bet there's an issue with the bridge.
 
#27
TNCreature said:
If I hit a wall with the limits of my ability, I go to a professional. What's the option, throw away the bass?
:)
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Yes...in a dumpster near my house. Okay, that's a bit extreme. I would take it to a reputable tech (there's a whole thread with listings...one may be in the OP's operating area) and say "this thing sounds like a rubber band on a two-by-four". List what you've done so far and let the guy work his magic. If nothing can be improved, a true professional will tell you up front.

I know what you all are thinking "...jeez, another trip to a repair shop!". Some folks would consider it to be a waste of money. In medicine, we call it a second opinion.

Riis
 
#28
Zooberwerx said:
Actually, that was mentioned in the original post. Problem is that I don't trust half the so-called techs out there. Frankly, some of the work I've seen is downright frightening.

Riis
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I had the setup done at The Amp Shop\Bass Exchange in Sherman Oaks CA. Its an extremely reputable place, especially for bass. It's the only place in LA I know of that you can walk in and buy a Fodera, F-Bass or US Lakland off the wall. Given, everyone has a bad day every once in a while, but the tone wasn't quite right when I took it in.
It is used, so there could be some hidden issue that isn't immediately obvious; that's why I started the thread.
The other is because new German Warwicks are impossible to find, so I only have web videos and used dead-string beaters at GC to compare it too. I didn't know if there is something about these basses that is just darker tone-wise.
 
#29
socialleper said:
I had the setup done at The Amp Shop\Bass Exchange in Sherman Oaks CA. Its an extremely reputable place, especially for bass. It's the only place in LA I know of that you can walk in and buy a Fodera, F-Bass or US Lakland off the wall. Given, everyone has a bad day every once in a while, but the tone wasn't quite right when I took it in.
It is used, so there could be some hidden issue that isn't immediately obvious; that's why I started the thread.
The other is because new German Warwicks are impossible to find, so I only have web videos and used dead-string beaters at GC to compare it too. I didn't know if there is something about these basses that is just darker tone-wise.
Click to expand...

Well, it appears they should know what they're doing. I'd hand it back over and ask why it's so dead sounding. Some likely responses:

*This...this...and this are wrong.

*Sounds great to me...what's the problem?

*Warwicks just sound like this since they switched from 3 piece wenge to ovie necks (my stock answer).

If it is an irrepairable defect, sell it and buy something more to your liking. If listing it, be sure to mention it's the best bass you ever owned. j/k

Riis
 
#30
Zooberwerx said:
Well, it appears they should know what they're doing. I'd hand it back over and ask why it's so dead sounding. Some likely responses:

*This...this...and this are wrong.

*Sounds great to me...what's the problem?

*Warwicks just sound like this since they switched from 3 piece wenge to ovie necks (my stock answer).

If it is an irrepairable defect, sell it and buy something more to your liking. If listing it, be sure to mention it's the best bass you ever owned. j/k

Riis
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I'm screwing around with the bridge now. It has a lot of different mechanisms because of the 3d bridge that need to be set and locked.
 
#31
socialleper said:
I'm screwing around with the bridge now. It has a lot of different mechanisms because of the 3d bridge that need to be set and locked.
Click to expand...

Good call on your part. The large brass sub-block is pretty handy for raising / lowering the strings once you've established the proper profile with the individual inserts. Don't forget that the inserts have forward-facing locking grub screws, as well.

Riis
 
#33
TNCreature said:
To me, a "dark sound" and "deadened" strings are two different things.
Dark describes the tone and deadened sounds like the string is choking or prevented from vibrating (rubbing).
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I guess I may not be using them correctly then, or clearly enough. The problem with sound is that you know it when you hear it but can't put into words easily.
The problem is that with a nice fresh set of strings, if you give the E a nice firm whack with your middle finger, or a solid down stroke with a pick, there is usually a bright metallic ring, more noticeable with steel roundwounds than say flatwounds. This bass isn't doing that as much. The strings sound more like a thunk when not plugged in, and when plugged in, it seems to lack a little bit of the character or voice that I would associate specifically with the string as opposed to the electronics.

Clear as mud right.....
 
#34
Here's where I am now:
I took the strings off and cleaned everything. The first thing I noticed is that that 3D bridge wasn't locked, so I tightened that up. Then I took a screw driver to the screws for the neck which were a tad loose.
I know reusing strings is a big no-no, but I experiment with a lot of strings and do it all the time with more good results than bad. I swapped out the E through G, which were Pedulla strings (good strings, but with a tapered E and A that I don't think were working for that bridge) and replaced them with some steel DR Low Riders I had around. Then I tried following the instructions that WarwickOffical linked, with mixed results.
Over all the tone is much brighter, with the DRs being more crisp than the remaining Pedulla B string. But now I'm getting fret buzz if I dig in, so I need to keep tweaking the neck and saddles.
But at least I'm closer than when I started. Thanks for all the advice.
 
#35
socialleper, Glad to hear things are progressing! Where on the neck are you getting fret buzz from? It takes a few times to get the entire setup done right, but once you learn it - it will be a breeze. Be sure the truss rod is adjusted properly, as well as the just-a-nut, saddles and bridge. It sounds like soon you will have it dialed in! I am here to assist you in any way...don't hesitate to ask! Best regards,
 
#37
azzyrazzy said:
It's not a bright maple and ash bass. It's has a darker personality but sounds thunderous when played fingerstyle, I bet :)
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The Corvette $$ is a Swamp Ash body with an Ovangkol neck and wenge fretboard. I couldn't pony up the bread for the NT Bubinga model or a SS2 with an Afzelia body, which is what I really wanted initially, but don't have 2k burning a hole in my pocket for a used one.
You're right though, this bass sounds best when you hammer it with your fingers. Slap and pick don't work quite as well as I was hoping. My favorite tone is to leave the neck pickup in single coil and put the bridge into series mode. Big Erlend Caspersen tone.
 
#38
Zooberwerx said:
Warwicks are strange agents and almost over-engineered in some regards IMO.

Riis
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I'm starting to see where you are coming from. There are so many variables that trying to get the tone even across all the strings is a real chore. The adjust-a-nut is nice since there are times you want to raise or lower it, but with a standard nut you are stuck with what you have.
The bridge is a crazy pain though. I don't know how many owners its had, but some of the inserts were in backwards and they are pretty beat up. Trying to keep your string spacing right after loosening the locks can be tricky. I'm starting to think a standard bridge would be preferable.
 
#40
socialleper said:
I'm starting to see where you are coming from. There are so many variables that trying to get the tone even across all the strings is a real chore. The adjust-a-nut is nice since there are times you want to raise or lower it, but with a standard nut you are stuck with what you have.
The bridge is a crazy pain though. I don't know how many owners its had, but some of the inserts were in backwards and they are pretty beat up. Trying to keep your string spacing right after loosening the locks can be tricky. I'm starting to think a standard bridge would be preferable.
Click to expand...

There's no problem with removing, cleaning, rehabbing the existing components. The trick is centering the inserts and locking them into place before they start shifting to one side. I'll sometimes use the long arm of a hex key like a dental probe and use it adjacent to the insert to jog it into position before tightening the grub screw. Don't replace the bridge assembly! It's just a sideways version of the ABM.

Riis
 

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