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Sources for quality finish in lurid colours?

S

saskia strange

May 14, 2012
7
0
Canada
#1
I've got an old Foundation in dire need of some colour (a previous owner covered the original lovely metallic red with a horrible dingy whitish slop, which is now also quite dented and chipped). Never done a refinish before, so I could use a bit of advice re: what to use.

I'd really like to do something bright; fuschia or magenta, or maybe lime green. The only well-rated source I know of is ReRanch, but they don't appear to carry any really lurid 1980s colours. Where else ought I to be looking?
 
#2
saskia strange said:
I've got an old Foundation in dire need of some colour (a previous owner covered the original lovely metallic red with a horrible dingy whitish slop, which is now also quite dented and chipped). Never done a refinish before, so I could use a bit of advice re: what to use.

I'd really like to do something bright; fuschia or magenta, or maybe lime green. The only well-rated source I know of is ReRanch, but they don't appear to carry any really lurid 1980s colours. Where else ought I to be looking?
Click to expand...

Auto body colors work well, though can be difficult to work with and require at minimum a spray gun and compressor. Acrylic enamel and urethane single stage are probably the easiest to work with. Metallics are a major pain.
 
#8
Smilodon said:
Yes, but with the right primer it doesn't matter. Most types of paint stick well to wood since it's very porous compared to metal.

Keep in mind that Fender took their paint directly from car manufacturers back in the days. :)
Click to expand...

Good to know. There's definitely a lot more variety in colours of auto paint... Perhaps I can coerce one of the friendly neighbourhood auto body chaps to help me out with a spray gun.

Is there a particular sort of 'the right primer' you'd recommend?
 
#11
saskia strange said:
Good to know. There's definitely a lot more variety in colours of auto paint... Perhaps I can coerce one of the friendly neighbourhood auto body chaps to help me out with a spray gun.

Is there a particular sort of 'the right primer' you'd recommend?
Click to expand...

I like to use a high build automotive primer when doing a solid color. It sands easily, and fills any imperfections in the wood. The rattle can stuff works fine, but you can get it in a quart at just about any parts store. I have used it many times with many different top coats, and I never had any compatibility issues.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...11-oz-Duplicolor_7140770-P_N3275_T|GRP2050___
 
#12
saskia strange said:
Good to know. There's definitely a lot more variety in colours of auto paint... Perhaps I can coerce one of the friendly neighbourhood auto body chaps to help me out with a spray gun.

Is there a particular sort of 'the right primer' you'd recommend?
Click to expand...

I won't claim to have much experience since I have painted only two basses (One refinish and one on fresh wood)

On the last one I used some Colormatic 2K sanding primer (Recommended base coat for the Dupli-Color paint I used). It's specifically made for metals, but seems to stick very well to wood. I actually had a couple of chips when fitting the neck where the color and top coats came loose, but the primer were still intact.

Another alternative is Timbermate wood filler. Just thin it out to a slurry and brush it on, let it dry and sand flat. Just do a test run first to see if your paint is compatible.
 
#13
Hopkins said:
I like to use a high build automotive primer when doing a solid color. It sands easily, and fills any imperfections in the wood. The rattle can stuff works fine, but you can get it in a quart at just about any parts store. I have used it many times with many different top coats, and I never had any compatibility issues.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...11-oz-Duplicolor_7140770-P_N3275_T|GRP2050___
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link!

This might be an awfully stupid question, but - if you get it in a quart, can you just apply it with a paintbrush? I'd really love to avoid spraying as much as possible; I've done quite a lot of with-a-brush painting and can get a really smooth, drip-free surface that way, but I'm a bit worried about my ability to avoid drips with a spray can...

Smilodon said:
I won't claim to have much experience since I have painted only two basses (One refinish and one on fresh wood)

On the last one I used some Colormatic 2K sanding primer (Recommended base coat for the Dupli-Color paint I used). It's specifically made for metals, but seems to stick very well to wood. I actually had a couple of chips when fitting the neck where the color and top coats came loose, but the primer were still intact.

Another alternative is Timbermate wood filler. Just thin it out to a slurry and brush it on, let it dry and sand flat. Just do a test run first to see if your paint is compatible.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the specifics; it's so very helpful to have some idea of what might be used. I'll do my research before just taking any one person's word for it (read: if I mess the job up horribly, I won't be all "Smilodon! Why'd you recommend such a useless product!"), but it's really nice to have reference points to start from regarding materials...
 
#14
saskia strange said:
Thanks for the link!

This might be an awfully stupid question, but - if you get it in a quart, can you just apply it with a paintbrush? I'd really love to avoid spraying as much as possible; I've done quite a lot of with-a-brush painting and can get a really smooth, drip-free surface that way, but I'm a bit worried about my ability to avoid drips with a spray can...
Click to expand...


I guess it could be done, but you would be doing a ton of sanding to get it even. I think it would be much easier to sand out a run than to use a paint brush.
 

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