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Speaker Cab Design Question

B

bodan

Feb 25, 2010
21
1
#1
I am trying to come design a cab that is based on this 4x15:

http://www.electricamp.com/4x15speaker-cabinet.html

However, I would like to make it 2x15 instead of 4. Would halving the height of this cab do the trick, or would this end up being problematic? I would be using the exact same speakers (Eminence Delta 15A).

The cab on which I am basing my design is sealed. I would also like to make mine sealed. I noticed that the back of the Electric Amp Innovations cab can be unscrewed. Does this sort of design compromise the seal of the cab? One last question, would a crossover and horn be necessary for these speakers? I don't think the Electric Amp Innovations cab employs them.

Any help or input will be greatly appreciated.
 
#3
The xmax on the Delta 15A is only 2.6 mm.

If you are using it for a midrange speaker only (with a different speaker as a dedicated subwoofer and properly crossed over), OR if you only plan on playing a regular guitar 6 string through it, then it should be fine. It is even recommended as a mid-range bass speaker only, not as a full range woofer, and definitely not as a subwoofer.

If you are using it to load a 215 or 415 bass cabinet using only that speaker...it isn't going to last very long unless you severely cut all the sub 100Hz content out.

Poor choice as a bass cab speaker.
 
#5
tdogg said:
IIRC eminence has speaker cabinet dimensions listed on their website for each speaker.
Click to expand...

And even Eminence themselves do not recommend the Delta 15A as anything but a midrange speaker...not a bass speaker on it's own, no matter what cabinet you design for it.

There are better full range bass speakers somewhat near that price point...

Eminence Deltalite II 2515
Eminence Kappa-15LFA
Eminence Basslite C2515
 
#6
Sundogue said:
The xmax on the Delta 15A is only 2.6 mm.

If you are using it for a midrange speaker only (with a different speaker as a dedicated subwoofer and properly crossed over), OR if you only plan on playing a regular guitar 6 string through it, then it should be fine. It is even recommended as a mid-range bass speaker only, not as a full range woofer, and definitely not as a subwoofer.

If you are using it to load a 215 or 415 bass cabinet using only that speaker...it isn't going to last very long unless you severely cut all the sub 100Hz content out.

Poor choice as a bass cab speaker.
Click to expand...

But... it's a 15"! 4 of them!! And everyone knows that 15's have more bass than 10's or 12's!!!! :hyper: :p :rollno:

Seriously, anyone who expounds the "you can tell how much bass the cabinet will have by the size of the driver" myth should see and hear this one...
 
#7
Thanks for the quick replies.

I noticed the Kappa-15LFA has twice the RMS handling as the other two and a higher Xmax. Any thoughts on which of the 3 speakers Sundogue suggested would make the best 2x15 full range cab? I would like to keep my design as simplistic as possible, so if I can avoid a crossover I would like to.

From what you guys are telling me, I find it odd that Electric Amp Innovations would design one of their bass cabs around a speaker that isn't well suited for strictly bass.
 
#8
bodan said:
Thanks for the quick replies.

I noticed the Kappa-15LFA has twice the RMS handling as the other two and a higher Xmax. Any thoughts on which of the 3 speakers Sundogue suggested would make the best 2x15 full range cab? I would like to keep my design as simplistic as possible, so if I can avoid a crossover I would like to.

From what you guys are telling me, I find it odd that Electric Amp Innovations would design one of their bass cabs around a speaker that isn't well suited for strictly bass.
Click to expand...

Eminence Deltalite II 2515
Eminence Basslite C2515

Although the best for a full range and loud as hell 215 that can go relatively low is...

Eminence 3015 (non LF), although it's pricier, it's the best one and only weighs one pound (neo).

I don't find anything odd about cab manufacturers doing what they do, including doing the same designs over and over and over again. But why not? Every keeps buying the same designs over and over and over again. ;)
 
#9
A sealed cab design will roll off lots of lows. Might not be worth using 15s that way when 10s or 12s will do just as well.

As for the removable back, that's just for servicing it, because the drivers are mounted from inside. It's the only way into the cab. You'd never run it without the back---that would be like running the speakers without any cab at all.

It's so enlightening to see they use steel screws in the construction. As if everyone else uses rubber? Sounds like marketing hype gone wild.
 
#10
A sealed 2x15 will probably be pretty weak. With 4 they'll move enough air without huge amounts of power to drive them to the point where xmax matters so much. Fine if you have a valve amp without much power but you want a lot of volume, but it's not a cab for the kilowatt head crowd. Natural valve compression will sort the speaker breaking issue, as great and loud as a 200w valve amp sounds, watts are watts for speaker power handling limits, thermal or excursion.

You might find it disappears under detuned guitars, since it is effectively a big guitar cab.

There are Marshall 2x15s, like a deep 4x12 that are pretty much half of one of those, Matamp to them too.
 
#11
I looked at the specs on the 3015, and it looks like it is not designed to be used in a sealed enclosure. I am not confident in my ability to properly port a cab, so I'll have to shy away from the 3015.

Which would you recommend between the other two? Or how about non-eminence speakers that would be good for a sealed cab?
 
#13
Few decent sealed bass cabs? Is a ported cabinet really that much more fantastic for bass? I understand that speaker efficiency is lost when you seal the cab, but aren't sealed cabs supposed to be punchier and more articulate?

I could probably attempt a sealed cab with a little more time spent studying, but I was under the impression that a sealed cab isn't necessarily a bad thing.
 
#15
The Ampeg 8x10 is sealed. Its good for valve amps that don't control the bottom so well and get flabby.

A well designed and tuned ported cab is technically better, more linear, less coloured etc. but they can accentuate the failings of a coloured, non linear valve amps. By the fact you are asking this, you currently probably don't understand enough to design a correctly ported cab (trying not to be patronising there, but it has to be said).

A ported cab is better for 'bass' the frequency band, for 'bass' the instrument, it is a taste thing. But the sealed ampeg fridge is a pretty well known benchmark.

What amp are you planning on using?

If you have a 100w valve amp, go for the full on 4x15 loaded the same and knock down walls.
 
#19
Your Mr. Foxen, I am not really a techie. But you have to start somewhere. Currently I have Peavey T Maxx, but I plan to get a QSC power amp to go with it. If I run across a Sunn 300/Bassman 300, Peavey VB2/3, or Ampeg Classic for the right price I would use one of those.

I must say I'm surprised to hear that a sealed cab isn't suited for bass. I feel that the general mood here is that I should strive for a ported design, but any suggestions for optimizing a sealed cab would be great.
 

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