SPECTOR® Club - Part 66

[cjmodulus]

I recently switched to D'addario pro steels from the nickel XLs- I really like the sound, and I've had this set on for somewhere between 4 and 6 months.
I don't usually change strings unless I break one- at which point ill change the entire set. I also wipe down my strings after every playing session and I always make sure my hands are clean before I start playing, which I think helps with their longevity.

 

[bunkaroo]

Good to know. I've had ProSteels on one of the Euro 435's I sold off, but I had not tried them yet on one of the 5'ers. I have to measure and see if I need to order the super longs or not. Sounds like the method for this is to park the string at the nut when tuned to pitch, and then measure from the inside of the ball end to the mark while the string is uninstalled to see what length I need.

Can any of our resident string experts say if this method is accurate across all strings? Meaning, if I measure that way for the E, is that measurement also valid for the A, D or G? My biggest concern is getting strings that are too long and wind up with the thick part of the wrap around the post.

 

[levis76]

My wife is going to get a super huge hug and a kiss when I get home. I'm really sorry you guys have had or are having so much trouble with the spouses. Hope things work out for the best for you guys.

Rick

Thanks. I put all that waaaay behind me. Now I have a fantastic and understanding wife and we have three beautiful children, so to the other guys that are still going throught the living hell that is divorce, there is life after divorce and it is sweet indeed.

After it's all said and done, and you've finally moved on, that's a great time to really get to know your Spector or maybe even meet a few new ones. Spectors never get jealous, in fact they enjoy sharing you with friends.

 

[awilkie84]

I've yet to need a set of super-longs on my ReBop5. In fact, the super longs that I've ordered have been too long and the non-tapered end starts to wrap around the post.

 

[bunkaroo]

I've yet to need a set of super-longs on my ReBop5. In fact, the super longs that I've ordered have been too long and the non-tapered end starts to wrap around the post.

You're talking about the DR's, correct? The DR's have always been fine for me too on 35" scale Spectors. It's the D'Addario's I'm worried about.

 

[johnsonabq]

My biggest concern is getting strings that are too long and wind up with the thick part of the wrap around the post.

Bunk can you, or anyone, explain to me the physics of why this is a bad thing? I don't see how it makes a difference. I thought the whole story of a string's sound happens between the nut and the bridge. This happens to me and I don't notice an issue.

 

[bunkaroo]

Bunk can you, or anyone, explain to me the physics of why this is a bad thing? I don't see how it makes a difference. I thought the whole story of strings sound happens between the nut and the bridge. This happens to me and I don't notice an issue.

It's because they can break easily. Several guys have mentioned popping low B strings because the thick part tried to wrap around the tuner. Ideally you want the taper to happen right after the nut I think.

In fact, I tried getting my old 34" scale Carvin 6 setup with DR nickel Lo-Riders and couldn't because of this issue.

 

[cableguy]

Thanks. I put all that waaaay behind me. Now I have a fantastic and understanding wife and we have three beautiful children, so to the other guys that are still going throught the living hell that is divorce, there is life after divorce and it is sweet indeed.

After it's all said and done, and you've finally moved on, that's a great time to really get to know your Spector or maybe even meet a few new ones. Spectors never get jealous, in fact they enjoy sharing you with friends.

+1 been there, done that, lost my shirt......

I was a single dad for many years, gave up music briefly. Now I've been remarried over 10 years, life is good, and my wife just bought me a powered 12" monitor for my birthday.

 

[awilkie84]

You're talking about the DR's, correct? The DR's have always been fine for me too on 35" scale Spectors. It's the D'Addario's I'm worried about.

I'm talking about the D'Addarios. The XLs I had were extra longs and WAAAY too long.

 

[bunkaroo]

I'm talking about the D'Addarios. The XLs I had were extra longs and WAAAY too long.

Ah OK. I saw you mention Dr's before so I wasn't sure. I'm assuming this will hold true for the ProSteels as well as the XL's then. I recall it being fairly close on a regular Long set of ProSteels getting the taper past the nut.

Good thing is the strings aren't very expensive so I can take a chance.

 

[worshiprocker]

Ok, it has come time for me to dive head first into the world of DI. Previously all my experience was running into a switcher that ran straight to the board. Nothing add but a little compression for the guys at the board. Now I need something with a little more punch in the gut. It seems as if most spector players are using Tone Hammers or the Tech 21. Can anyone give me some ideas of what has worked for you and why. The EDEN WTDI was also mentioned but the reviews are mixed. Seems like the previous two mentioned really nail down the Spector tone. Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I very much prefer my mxr bass di+ over the bddi I had (the bddi deluxe has some great features tho)


I'm sorry to read of all the relationship turmoil, but we are all here to support each other and THAT is cool.

I've been using this for my strings and I notice that it does help and makes the strings less harsh on your fingers.

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[johnsonabq]

It's because they can break easily. Several guys have mentioned popping low B strings because the thick part tried to wrap around the tuner.

Hmmm... Now that you mention it, I did have two B strings pop on me while installing a year or so ago. (forgot all about it) That must've been the issue. Maybe I got the extra long scale. A while back I noticed that the standard long scale strings from DR fit my Euro5 so I've stuck with them.

Another question... Has anyone compared DR's Lo-Riders to the Hi-Beams? I'm wondering what the sonic differences would be.

 

[bunkaroo]

Hmmm... Now that you mention it, I did have two B strings pop on me while installing a year or so ago. (forgot all about it) That must've been the issue. Maybe I got the extra long scale. A while back I noticed that the standard long scale strings from DR fit my Euro5 so I've stuck with them.

Another question... Has anyone compared DR's Lo-Riders to the Hi-Beams? I'm wondering what the sonic differences would be.

Yeah it seems like the DR's are a great fit for Spector 5's. Only problem has been sometimes the winding at the ball end is a bit thick for the gap in the bridge. I've avoided filing so far. Hope the US bridges take them a little more easily.

There are a decent amount of threads here about the difference between Lo-Riders vs. Hi-Beams. I did a lot of research when I was figuring out what to use. For the sake of your comparison I'll assume you mean steel Lo-Riders, not the nickel.

The gist of it seems to be higher tension on the Lo-Riders due to the hex core vs. the round core on the Hi-Beams. Lo-Riders I see described as having more bottom and better for rock and metal whereas the Hi-Beams may have a brighter top end and are kind of scooped. The Fat Beams are basically Hi-Beams with more bottom.

I found this link today which I hadn't see before. Great analysis with sound clips for fingers, pick and slap for each variety of DR's. Very interesting.

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[Torn Bassist]

I used Fat Beams for awhile which I understand is pretty much the same the Hi-beams, but slower wound and a little more bottom end. Liked them a lot, but tried the CK's due to the variety available for alternate tunings and the tapered ends. I have a feeling I will wind up on Fat Beams at least for the standard BEADG stuff - I like the 130 B. I may try some custom sets of Hi-Beams or SS Lo-Riders for the alternate tunings I use.



When I got my first Euro 5LX I was using nickel Lo-Riders, but found them a bit dull for my taste after breaking in. I had one set of SS Lo-Riders I tried but they didn't sound god out of the package to me ears. Maybe it was a bum set. Definitely need to try them again.

I think I stayed away from using the Cobalts much at the time since they didn't make a 45-65-85-105-130 set and I had to buy two sets to make that set and sell off the extras. I see now Jason at BSO has Cobalts available separately including a 135 so I may try those out as well.

I may have a lot of Spector NS-5XL cut lightly-used strings available in the near future!

I play with fingers and when I use a pick these DR Lo-Riders get a little loud with a defined brightness thats probably due to the stiffness of the core, I'm glad I gave these strings a little time because I have grown to like them and if I want a fast bite with defined and accurate notes/tones I grab the Ultraviolet. If I want a midrange tone with a drive I grab the Black Cherry with the Ernie Ball Cobalts.

 

[Torn Bassist]

For you sweaty guys, have you tried denatured alcohol? I've been getting good results cleaning strings that way. I am the same way - I make strings dull with sweat and dirt long before they have a chance to wear out. This happens to me even when I'm not sweating. I wahs my hands before I play and wipe my strings down between every song at home or rehearsal. For shows, the strings are assumed to be goners until I soak them. I soak the strings overnight, let them air dry and they're 95% new sounding.

I don't have this problem unless it's a hot sunny day and then it's wipe and clean time.

 

[johnsonabq]

Yeah it seems like the DR's are a great fit for Spector 5's. Only problem has been sometimes the winding at the ball end is a bit thick for the gap in the bridge. I've avoided filing so far. Hope the US bridges take them a little more easily.

There are a decent amount of threads here about the difference between Lo-Riders vs. Hi-Beams. I did a lot of research when I was figuring out what to use. For the sake of your comparison I'll assume you mean steel Lo-Riders, not the nickel.

The gist of it seems to be higher tension on the Lo-Riders due to the hex core vs. the round core on the Hi-Beams. Lo-Riders I see described as having more bottom and better for rock and metal whereas the Hi-Beams may have a brighter top end and are kind of scooped. The Fat Beams are basically Hi-Beams with more bottom.

I found this link today which I hadn't see before. Great analysis with sound clips for fingers, pick and slap for each variety of DR's. Very interesting.

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Great link... Thanks Bunk. Yes, I only use SS. I think I'll try the Lo-Riders and see. I don't really need more low end but I try to avoid scooped.

I got fed up with the low B and the Euro bridge. I grabbed my set of drill bits and started sliding them through the bridge hole until I found the first one that didn't slide through. Then popped it in the drill and opened the hole up a little. Worked like a charm. Still a tight fit but always pops in place as soon as I start tuning.

 

[bunkaroo]

I don't have this problem unless it's a hot sunny day and then it's wipe and clean time.

I'm a big boy and tend to be sweating a bit by the time I am done setting up my gear. The lights don't help either.

 

[bunkaroo]

Great link... Thanks Bunk. Yes, I only use SS. I think I'll try the Lo-Riders and see. I don't really need more low end but I try to avoid scooped.

I got fed up with the low B and the Euro bridge. I grabbed my set of drill bits and started sliding them through the bridge hole until I found the first one that didn't slide through. Then popped it in the drill and opened the hole up a little. Worked like a charm. Still a tight fit but always pops in place as soon as I start tuning.

I think the DR's must vary a little, because some I've had no problem getting 130's through, and then I had a 125 once I wanted to try for drop C and it would not go. At this point I'm not willing to file down my US bridges so we'll see what fits.

 

[johnsonabq]

I think the DR's must vary a little, because some I've had no problem getting 130's through, and then I had a 125 once I wanted to try for drop C and it would not go. At this point I'm not willing to file down my US bridges so we'll see what fits.

I was told this would not be an issue with USA bridges. Is this not the case?

 

[bunkaroo]

I was told this would not be an issue with USA bridges. Is this not the case?

Don't know yet - haven't tried anything on my new builds that isn't tapered yet. My older 5XL had Fat Beams on it for a time and it was OK. I still have a set of Fat Beams at home and I'm planning on ordering some SS Lo-Riders as well. I have a bunch of single SS Lo-Riders around I had meant for use with drop tunings but I had a hard time getting the wrap through the bridge, but again that was a Euro bridge.

I'm planning on setting up the blue 5XL ADGCF when I have a chance so I'd likely be using the 135 Lo-Rider for that since that's the heaviest they have. I'll find out then if it's an issue. I still have a Euro 5 that is setup CGCFBb with the CK's, but I had a problem getting a 125 Lo-Rider in that bridge too so I don't know if I will convert that one over to DR or put it back to standard.